Windshield Hinge Screws

During my rebuild of a 1959 CJ5, we moved. So, it has been a while since I have seen all of the hardware that I need to reassemble the thing. As I sort out the many bags, boxes, and jars of parts, one of the odd things that I have come across is the type of screw used to hold the windshield hinge parts to the frame and tub. At first, it appears to be a normal 3/4 inch flat-head screw. Then looking closer, the thread pitch is fine. Then looking closer, the conical surface of the head is ridged to be a lock-washer kind of thing.



I have done a lot of web searching, but to no avail. Does anyone have a source to such fasteners?

 

I have been looking as well to no avail. I'll be watching this thread closely.

 

No such luck that I know of. My local mega-we-have-every-nut-bolt-and-screw-on-the-planet store only had the "regular" version. That is, flat head allen drive. At least they had the right thread size.....

BTW, it's a 1/4"-28, or at least it was on mine. Had it together for over a year, about 1400 miles and no problems.

 

I had/have the same issue. All I could find were torx... I hate torx. However, I would be happy with countersunk allen head vs. the orig phillips.
A related issue is the large square nut caged in the body. Has anybody found those strange animals?

 

Are you talking about the 1/4" caged nuts that all the tranny cover panels bolt down to? Try this thread. I bought 25 of them from McMaster-Carr for $12.11. http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21612&highlight=captive

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for 90680A135. You want part number 90680A135, Square-Style Cage Clip-On Nut Zinc Pltd Stl, 1/4"-20 Sz, for .025"-.063" Thk Panel, $7.86 per pack of 25, plus S&H.

 

My windshield hinges were missing a couple of screws also, and I was able to get replacements from the Jeep Dealer. They didn't have the ribs and were over $2 each, but at least they were correct. You could always use lock-tite on them if you are worried about them coming loose.

Jim

 

Because I ruined most of mine getting them out, (rusted in place) I opted to put a whole buncha anti-seize on them. Haven't had them come loose yet.

Also, if you purchase the cage nuts from McMaster-Carr, remember that the ones that Rondog posted are 1/4"-20, not 1/4"-28. In a way this is cool because you'll have more options available to you for screws. I know that my local Ace Hardware has 1/4"-20 philips flathead in stainless steel. Paint or powder coat them, and you'll be golden.

 

It was a real hard removal to get the original screws out. I had to drill one through and use an "easy-out". Perhaps the original locks too well.

McMaster Carr has both Zinc plated steel (90273A559) and Stainless (91771A559), but neither has the gripper ribs. (stainless is less expensive?) And the screws supplied with my Totally Stainless kit do not sport the gripper ribs. I like the lock tight solution.

Thanks

 

As far as the screws with the locking "ribs" on them, you might call Beachwood Canvas and see if they have them. Won't be cheap though. I'll probably just replace mine with Allen heads, because they work so much better than the Phillips, and have them powdercoated along with the hinges and w/s frame.

x2 on the anti-sieze.

 

OK,
done some digging in the FASTENAL catalog - no dice - or those bolts either, and they are the fastener King around here.

As for the anti-seize, this may seem weird, but I took an 8 hour class on Loctite, and they would suggest using their LOW strength threadlocker for this. Reasons:

1. You are mainly trying to keep the moister out to keep it from rusting and then hard to remove, the Loctite will actually do a better job of sealing out the water than any anti-seize will.
2. The Low Strength Loctite is REALL LOW strength. It really does nothing than fill the voids between the threads, so it will not make it any harder to remove the bolts later on.

I know you guys think I'm crazy, but this stuff does work. I work in a food plant, LOTS of water, LOTS of fasteners. I use it all the time. Here is the stuff-Loctite 222MS
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3

Oh, by the way, I do NOT work for LOCTITE!

 

x2 , also a heat gun will soften loctite to aid removal.

 

Sure, Loctite is great stuff, have nothing against it. However, I like the idea of the anti-galling properties of the anti-sieze on fasteners that are likely to give me grief, like those windshield hinge screws, sparkplugs, head bolts, etc. I use both Loctite and anti-sieze, depends on the application.

 

I have a question concerning the caged nut for these screws...I have one of the screws that is about 1/2 unscrewed/screwed in, and the caged nut spins freely...any ideas on how to secure the nut so I can tighten the screw? Thanks

 

The holes in the floor are square, and those nuts just clip in. You should be able to remove the nut pretty easily with your fingers or pliers, just don't wreck it. Once it's out you can probably tighten it up within the cage with some pliers, maybe even get the old nut out and put in a new one (has to be square). Go to my previous post about McMaster Carr and go to their website, you can see a picture of them. You can get 25 of them for about 12-13 bucks.

 

Rondog, sorry, I can't follow you...I'm referring to the windshield hinge screws. The caged nut that is spinning on me in on the cab side of the firewall, incased is a sort of bracket

 

sorry...incased IN some sort of bracket

 

Sorry, don't know about those nuts. I thought you were talking about the ones in the floor/firewall for all the tranny cover bolts.

 

I personally haven't had to mess with these(YET!) but can you get a pair of vice grips in there on the nut and cage(bracket) to hold it?

 

Nope, the nut spins inside the cage and I don't want to tear it up. I guess this is really no big deal, as this screw has been this way ever since I got the Jeep 4 years ago. Just wanted to tighten it up before it made up it's mind to finish wiggling loose and get lost. KCJ

 

I know this is a very old thread, but after a long search I just found a source for the correct screws with the serrations on the heads, so thought I would revive this thread, because it has some other good information, and provide the only source I have found for these very difficult to find items.

I just ordered a set from QTM off of their Ebay store. These are just like the original hardware.

Search for Ebay item number: 273516077840