Steering Wheel Repair?

The original steering wheel on my '56 has the normal cracks and separations in the bakelite/plastic on each of the spokes that come with age. The internal metal frame is fine. Years ago I used JB Weld to fix similar issues on my 3A and M38 but was wondering if there's a newer/better alternative (epoxy, plastic filler, etc) that people have had luck with these days...?

 

I have repaired one with JB Weld, and another with body filler. The body filler was a lot easier to sand down flush and it held up fine for the few years I had the Jeep. I ground the crack out a little to give the filler something to stick to, and just painted it black once I sanded it down.

 

I used the NuMetal epoxy putty from KBS Coatings, worked great. I think JB Weld makes a thick dough-like putty too...

 

"Bondo" body filler is polyester resin filled with talc. You could go with that, but I'd suggest instead short-glass-fiber-filled polyester like USC Duraglas. https://www.amazon.com/24035-Duraglass-Qt-448833-Valspar/dp/B0082LF7B6/ref=psdc_3097823011_t1_B002I0MOY0 Talc is soft and permeable to water. The steel under bondo will rust and the bondo will fall off if it is not sealed with a top coat. I'd expect the Duraglass to seal out humidity and keep the steel frame of the wheel from rusting. Might be good to treat the breaks with some rust-preventing treatment.

There are industrial 2-part epoxy putties available too. I would look at the offerings from McMaster-Carr or MSC. An industrial supply like this will have a higher markup than retail stores, but I would expect their offerings to be more diverse and better vetted.

 

POR15 made a two part epoxy that I used on one time long ago. Hard to sand, but held up will.
Seen guys on the web take plastic and dissolve it in MEK make a slurry and fix them. Seems like a lot of work though. Probably have to wear a respirator and rubber gloves. I beveled the edges of the cracks and sanded them for adhesion put in the epoxy and sanded it down. I think if you catch it at the right stage of curing, it would sand easier.

I think the KBS stuff is pretty good and I have used the Lab Metal epoxy in the past. Apparently there is a thinner for the Lab Metal stuff. Always seemed to be too stiff for me. They list the Alvin Lab solvent to thin the Lab Metal. I never got the consistency right with the Lab Metal. I think it had been on the shelves too long.
The PC7 epoxy comes in two cans and I have used it in the past. Apparently there is an epoxy thinner for that also, but it seemed overly stiff also.

I'm thinking the short hair filler might be the easiest to use.



Dave

 

Do you paint the wheel after these repairs? What kind of paint?

 

Thanks gang - lots of options to research! Good stuff. All three of my spokes are damaged near the center hub so I’ve got some of the thicker material to work with and around.