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V6 To T98

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Bob milewski, Oct 24, 2020.

  1. Bob milewski

    Bob milewski New Member

    Maybe someone can help me with what I would have to do to mount a jeep t98 trans to a jeep dauntless 225 oddfire v6 motor.i have a 65 cj5 with factory f134 and t98 trans,all original factory setup, motor is tired and needs a rebuild so thought of a v6 swap out,I have a good v6 with both short and long style original bellhousings, what would I have to do or change to get this trans. To mount to the v6. Thank you..
     
  2. oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    Sell your complete T98-A setup to someone with a 134 engine.
    Should be a huge demand for that set of complete conversion parts.
    Then buy you a Jeep T18 and with some work you should end up with a much better setup for your Dauntless.
    I have both Jeep T98-A and Jeep T18 myself and I run the factory T98-A behind the F-134.
    Jeep T18 behind the Dauntless.
    Several reason why it’s much better that way.
     
  3. jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I'd buy that tired setup....PM me
     
  4. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Ken (oldtime) has the right idea IMO. Suggest you look into the T-18 rather than try to adapt the T-98.

    There is lot of info on this site about installing the truck 4-speeds in these Jeeps. You will find little or no support for the T-98 compared to the T-18, or the Muncie 4-speeds SM420 or SM465. There are other options too, like the T-19 and NP465. A Jeep T-18 helps you because nearly all of them include the adapter to the CJ-5 transfer cases. Too much to cover in one post - search!
     
  5. Dave B

    Dave B Frankenjeep '67

  6. oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    The T98-A was introduced as a CJ-5,6 option in 1956. The installation includes the following parts.

    10.22 Flywheel Housing
    • # 910467 Plate, adapter, bellhousing to transmission (7/8" thick cast iron) (qty. 3) Bolt 9/16" - 12 x 1-3/4" (qty1) Bolt 9/16" - 12 x 1-1/2"10.23 Engine Mounting
      • # 912721 Insulator, engine support rear
      11.02 Clutch Control Parts
      • # 911681 Bracket, clutch control frame
      • # 911602 Cable, clutch control lever (OAL is xx ")
      • # 911600 Lever and Tube, clutch control (8-1/2")
      • # 923636 Lever and Tube, clutch control (9-1/4")
      • # 911603 Rod, clutch release pedal (8-1/2")
      • # 923640 Rod, clutch release pedal (9-1/4")
      • # 911680 Stud and bracket, ball clutch control assembly
      13.01 Exhaust System
      • # 913454 Extension, exhaust pipe
      • # 803680 Insulator, support
      • # 913456 Pipe, Exhaust assembly
      • # 913457 Support, exhuast system assembly
      16.04 Speedometer
      • # 913035 Tube and shaft, speedometer (OAL is xx")
      17.01 Transmission
      • # 911216 Seal, oil, adapter plate
      • # 910468 Plate adapter, transmission to transfer case (7/8" thick cast iron)
      • (qty 4) Bolt 3/8" - 16 x 1-1/4"
      • (qty 2) Bolt 7/16" - 14 x 1-3/8"
      • # 911215 Spacer, (mainshaft output)
      • # 911627 Transmission assembly (T98-A)
      17.06 Gearshift
      • # 914183 Knob, transmission control lever
      18.02 Transfer Case
      • # 911598 Case, transfer assermbly (the complete transfer case assembly has special shaped shift levers and shift pin as noted below)
      • # 913085 Cap, bearing output clutch shaft
      18.06 Shift Lever
      • # 911862 Lever, shift, front wheel drive
      • # 911861 Lever, shift, underdrive
      • # 913159 Pin, pivot lever, shift (this shift pin is slightly shorter than the typical shift pin)
      • # 941729 Assembly, single lever (this is only for post 1967 with single stick transfer case)
      18.08 Transfer Case Mounting
      • (qty1) Bolt 3/8" - 24 x 1-1/2"
      • (qty1) Bolt 3/8' - 16 x 1-1/4"
      • (qty4) Bolt 3/8" - 16 x 1-1/8" (qty4) lock washers (1) hex nut (1) jam nut
      19.01 Propeller Shafts
      • # 915949 Propeller shaft, front assembly 28-1/4"
      • # 918339 Propeller shaft, rear assembly 13-7/16"
      24.01 Hand Brake
      • # 911693 Cable and conduit, front assembly (69 -3/8" for 4 speed with Tee brake)(4" longer than standard)
      26.01 Frame
      • # 911622 Crossmember support, engine rear
      • (qty4) Bolt 3/8" - 24 x 2" with nut stop elastic
      • # 911713 Plate, skid under frame
      • # 913057 Spacer (engine rear crossmember support) (1" thick white oak)
      31.09 Floor and Underbody
      • # 694643 Pan, front floor assembly
      • # 968335 Pan, front floor assembly (for post 1966 single shift transfer case)
      31.14 Plates, Seals and Covers
      • # 948185 Boot, gear shift lever (for post 1966 single shift transfer case)
      • # 694579 Plate, cover front floor pan opening assembly
      • # 694572 Plate, cover lower front floor pan
      • # 695543 Plate, cover transfer shift opening
      • # 694623 Spacer, gas tank
     
  7. Henri Watson

    Henri Watson Member

    I installed the T98 behind my v6. Wasn't as easy as I was told it would be but we got it in there eventually. Required getting a custom aluminum plate milled to bolt them up. There are much more knowledgable people here to tell you specifics than me. But I've been happy with the transmission combo for my uses. I'm off-road only with my jeep, no pavement or high speeds and I don't have any complaints. The granny low first gear is great to have although I'm pretty sure the T18 is just a better version of everything the t98 offers.
     
  8. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    My understanding - there's nothing wrong with the T-98 transmission per se, other than its obsolescence compared to the T-18 and others. Functionally, it's identical to the wide-ratio T-18. Parts may be an issue, and it's an oddball compared to the others.

    Ken's main point, as I understand it, is there is plenty of demand for the T-98 combo that works with the L134 and F134 engines. Selling the T-98 and parts to someone who wants it for their F134 Jeep would mostly offset the expense of these other more common upgrades.

    There are dozens of threads and hundreds (thousands?) of posts about this topic in the old threads of Early CJ-5. Use Google or Bing to search and read up! site:earlyCJ5.com truck 4-speed V6 swap - Bing Try different search terms.

    Novak also has a lot about these transmissions on their site: The Novak Guide to the Borg-Warner T98 Transmission Novak offers a kit for the M-715 version of the T-98, which I believe is not compatible with the CJ version. Advance Adapters may have something.

    The shortest combo will be a converted Ford T-18, which can bolt up to the 225 V6 with some minor machining. The Novak Guide to the Adapting Ford Style Transmissions to GM Engines

    This is just scratching the surface. There is plenty more on the Novak site and in the thread archive here.
     
  9. SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    I got really lucky with mine, in that it was already setup to bolt to the BOP bellhousing, and had the right input shaft stickout for a standard dauntless clutch. I don't even rightly know what it came out of, I bought it that way from a forum member a couple years back.
     
  10. Bob milewski

    Bob milewski New Member

    Thank you for all the replies and suggestions guess I have alot to look into and consider, guess its not as easy I as may have thought,just figured if it was possible I would not have to possibly not have to change driveshafts,trans crossmember and other items,Maybe just motor mounts,guess t18 trans are to easy to come across and probably pricy... Thank everyone again for the help...
     
  11. oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    My main point is that the original Jeep T98-A is much better suited to the 134 engines and the Jeep or even a Ford T18 is much better suited for a Dauntless.
    When you put any of the truck 4 speeds into a short wheelbase CJ you want to keep the OAL of the engine transmission and transfer case as short as possible.
    Other wise you run into both radiator and/ or propeller shaft length problems.

    The T98-A will require an oddball sized clutch driven disk and an extra bellhousing adapter plate thus making it’s installation less desirable than T18.
    Not to mention other benefits of T18 vs T98.
    Modified Ford and Jeep T18’s use common clutch driven disk hub sizes and will not add undesirable extra length because after modifications they can be bolted direct to a BOP bell.
    Done correctly with T18 you can leave transfer case in standard fore/aft location and run standard length propeller shafts.
    If you go that route I have other important fitment detail I can add.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  12. Sierra Bum

    Sierra Bum Member

    Of course all this is great advice. I run an sm420, which require just about a complete rebuild of everything for you.

    My one suggestion: Positively identify the correct T18 you need/want if you go that route. They came in many different versions and ratios.
     
  13. Bob milewski

    Bob milewski New Member

    Hi and Thank you.. I do have access to sm420 and sm465 but I do believe they require that everything needs to be modified, if I look for a t18 trans what do I look. It seems there were different ones...
     
  14. cjsammyowner

    cjsammyowner Member

    I'd rebuild that tired 134, add a set of tera gears in a big hole 18 and run an OD. Best of all worlds.
     
  15. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Sigh. All of this info is in old posts if you search and read. Doing the research is part of the price of admission. It's been covered over and over in this forum.

    Anything other than an aftermarket conversion kit for the Ford T-18 will require some simple machining (drilling holes, tapping, plugging holes).

    If you pick a Ford T-18, read the Novak page. You will need an aftermarket transfer case adapter (likely costing more but requiring no additional research/understanding) or an additional sacrificial 4WD T-18.

    If you pick a Jeep T-18:
    You do not want the one from a 1980 or later J20.
    Just about any other can be made to work with the right combination of junkyard parts.
    Any other from a V8 Wagoneer or J-truck, you'll want the short Ford input shaft. Search for discussion of this.
    One from a 6-cylinder Wagoneer or J-truck are not plentiful but an option. Search for discussion of this.
    CJs 1971-76 used a "close ratio" T-18 which is a viable option but involves different issues. Search.

    An IHC T-18 can be used for parts to convert a Ford T-18, as can most Jeep T-18s. Again, this is covered in old posts.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2020
  16. oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    Bob, To answer your PM questions......

    Yes the F-134 used two different clutch diameters.
    8-1/2” was the early standard using various mfgrs.
    Then in March of 1961 the standard changed to 9-1/4” using only Auburn.
    With ample experience you can “feel” what specific clutch is installed.
    Otherwise you can remove the bell house inspection cover to see the clutch cover plate assembly.
    It is also feasible to determine clutch diameter via an original clutch control “lever and tube” weldment.

    That said a Dauntless will require a totally different clutch than the F134 engine.

    I agree with others that you are much better off rebuilding your 134 engine for this particular Jeep because the T98-A option was relatively rare and this Jeep has certain value being not modified.

    If you want Dauntless with T18 then I highly suggest you buy a Dauntless powered CJ and modify it to suit your need.
    IMHO it will be much simpler to convert a Dauntless CJ 5 to accept wide ratio T18 than to convert your T98-A to accept a Dauntless V-6.
     
    jeepstar, timgr and Twin2 like this.