Dauntless Valve Cover Question

interesting stuff! I think that the engine is from a 1969, but I'm not 100% sure. I got the engine from GeoffreyL in like 2012, so I doubt he remembers either, lol.

 

In looking at my valve covers, it looks like Twin2's setup is how mine is arranged (filler on the passenger side with the wire holders towards the front. I guess that makes sense since the Rochester carb I have is set up for a paper element filter. Who would have thought this would become a can of worms?!?!? Thanks everyone for their help. And Ron, if you want to drive on up here and give me a hand running this thing for the first time, you're MORE than welcome to!

 

There is a baffle, #5, attached to the rocker assembly on the right hand (passenger) side of of the engine. This baffle deflects oil droplets that could otherwise get directly sucked into and through the PCV valve. The rocker cover is installed with the PCV port over the baffle. There is only one baffle per engine, there is no baffle on the other side.



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Here is a set of covers I have that were intended to be used with the paper filter and they do not have the hole for the oil bath breather tube. The oil fill hole remains in the back of the left hand (drivers) side cover.




The rear oil fill location can be tough to get at when there is a firewall mounted brake master cylinder and brake lines in the area, usually there is the need to use a funnel to control potential spills.
Maybe changes occurred to move the oil fill to the front of the engine for ease of access?

 

would like to add to post above . is it possible that these are for a commando . plug wire clips on top
it would be difficult to add oil with heater box in same area

 

Bahhhh, this is really good information OzFin. That baffle is installed on the front drivers side right now. I guess I'll have to move it to the passenger side!

 

Yes, very possible.
I currently have five of the 225 Dauntless motors, two for sure are original from CJ 5's, one specifically from a 1969 CJ 5.
Another one for sure from a Jeepster Commando, the remaining two are unknown.
All the rockers covers with engines that came with the oil bath air filter have the same port arrangement with variations on what type and where the plug wires tabs are located.
The different style covers I have were from an engine with the paper element filter.
Only 5 examples does not make a firm case as positively anything, I've just been stating what my observations have been.
Seems to be several variations from the factory, but when & why

 

If you are going in there then double check the rocker shaft orientation.





For what its worth...I've run my covers backwards on the Dauntless in my CJ3B for over 30+ years. I know its not right but it never has caused a problem

 

It wouldn 't hurt to check the rocker shaft orientation that OzFin posted above (as well as the rockers themselves). I've pulled at least two Dauntless V6s and a Buick 215 apart that had severe wear on the rocker shafts. They were improperly installed. The ground notch (figure D1-26 and D127 above) were about 90 degrees the wrong way.
There are oil supply holes made in the shaft, or at least what I thought were supply. OzFin's link says these are return holes! I know the shaft is supplied with oil up through a pedestal, around the bolt. I assumed these were supply/feed holes. Either way, there is a specific orientation of the rocker shafts for proper oiling. Also, make sure there are plugs in both ends of the rocker shafts, behind the cotter pins. I've seen one without the plug before. Check if the shop got them right!
-Donny

 

This is good information. I had the heads rebuilt with hardened seats a few years ago, and when I brought them to the machinist to install the other day, he decided to go through them. He said they had junk in the rocker shafts, and weren't properly rebuilt. I have a feeling the guy knew what he was doing, but I'll definitely double check while I have the valve covers off!

 

Ain't that the truth?
This is probably not a thread that should be discussed with outsiders, unless one of us wants to shut down a conversation:
Other guy: "Good to see you. What have you been up to?"
Me: "Oh, I've been following a fascinating discussion of the proper orientation of valve covers on late-'60s Jeep Dauntless V6 motors!"
Other guy: "Um, I'd better take this call...."

 

Well folks, I think my rockers are oriented correctly. Here's a pic of my left rear rocker arm shaft.


Now for my next question: does anyone have the torque spec for that rocker arm bolt so I can move the splash shield to the passenger side? If I loosen/remove the 3 bolts on top of the rocker shaft, will valve springs go flying? My service manual is for a 1957, so it sadly doesn't include anything relevant to the dauntless.

Also, is there a difference between blue goo, black goo, goo in a bottle or goo in a tube? I've enjoyed using permatex aviation form-a-gasket for my transfer case rebuild.

 

The valve springs are held to the valve stems with "keepers", they will not fly off.
Loosen the 3 bolts equally a little at a time, there will be tension on some of the pushrods/rockers/springs and you want the shaft to come off the pedestals equally.

Here are some torque specs.


And this link.
General Specifications for the 198 and 225 Cubic Inch V-6

 

The oil splash plate should prevent you from doing that.

 

How so? My valve covers were on backwards, and after I turned them around I was still able to bolt down the covers.

 

I think he also needs to move the splash plate to the other side of the engine. Apparently, the splash plate was also installed on the wrong side of the engine.

 

Yes, I’ll be doing that today.

 

Great info in this thread. My valve covers were installed upside down but with the filler cap on the driver's side. They will be fixed.

I think you mean removing without completely ruining the valve cover gaskets(?).

To even prevent this from happening, I'm wanting to suggest that the cork gasket be glued to only one surface (or none) and a simple grease be used to enhance the seal, but I don't know. I only know this technique anecdotally--hot rodders would grease a paper carburetor gasket so it didn't stick in order to preserve it and enable a quick change of different carburetors or the repetitive removal/installation of one, for jet changes and tuning for example.

Before the advent of sealant in a tube, I believe old timers relied on a mechanical seal alone; that is, an unglued cork gasket compressed by the valve cover and valve cover screws...But several heat cycles and time would bond the gaskets to the heads anyway and require new gaskets upon removal.


If new valve cover gaskets are installed and sealed well with no leaks, is there any need to remove the valve covers and get into the valve rocker assembly
area for maintenance, etc.? In other words, is it expedient to have them removable and the gaskets kept "pliable" with a lubricant?

 

I consider myself an ' Old School ' gasket guy. We used to make our own , way back in the Marina days.
Typically , one does not want to reuse gaskets. Particularly on the thin steel sealing edge of valve covers & oil pans.
I use the thickest cork gaskets available . Clean both surface, use Hi-Tack on the cover surface only. Press in your gasket & flip them over on a flat bench. Weight them down & leave them overnight. When you install the covers or pans , the clean , porous cast iron surface of the head or block will seal itself to the cork. Tighten all bolts in a criss / cross pattern , to just snug . Wait an hour & then torque to specs.
You do it this way, you'll never have leaks. , even on the downward pitched , rear side of a valve cover.
Just Say'n
.....Richie