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Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Failure - Again

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by CJMark, Feb 18, 2019.

  1. CJMark

    CJMark Jeeper

    Hey guys, my hydraulic brake light switch quit working again on the ‘46 2A, it was replaced a little over a year ago, not very many miles too.

    I dissected the switch and here’s what I found, no surprises.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I replaced it with another switch, brand Standard T-Series SLS27T, product of Mexico, but I have no faith this one will last either. The previous switch came from a highly respected supplier which is known to have better than average quality products; I think this switch type is a poorly engineered system design due to arcing and carbonization of the contacts especially with the early cj single master cylinder and small brake shoes where you have tendency to be a little extra careful with speed.

    Anyone else have a solution that’s worked for you?

    My grandson rides a Chinese ATV Quad 110cc Taotao piece of plastic which has a pretty simple electrical switch for foot brake, I would image some motorcycles and snowmobiles have something similar that would work. The plan is to fab a simple bracket above brake lever return spring with a parallel circuit to new electrical switch as a long-term solution.

    Here’s a good read on hydraulic brake switch failure investigation

    Thanks for any ideas on long-term solution.
    Mark
     
    Hellion likes this.
  2. garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    I've been converting my jeeps over to a mechanical brake light switch after those stupid things fail. I'll have to get a picture of what I did, but it is really easy. I use a 1955-59 Chevy truck brake light switch and bolt it to the master cylinder cover. Then space it accordingly so the arm hits the brake pedal arm. Just need some extender wires and boom, done in two minutes.

    1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 CHEVY TRUCK BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH NEW ** USA MADE ** | eBay
     
    CJMark and fyrmn like this.
  3. fyrmn

    fyrmn Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Did the above with mine after the same problem. All good now
     
  4. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I had several of these pressure switches fail. I made sure when I put in swinging pedals, they had provision for the brake light switch. Zero problems since. The Chevy one Nate has used looks to be the answer for stock type pedals.

    Its cool that you cut that switch in half for us to look at.
     
  5. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

  6. CJMark

    CJMark Jeeper

    Thanks, that’s the switch I’m going go with, the Chevy truck mechanical one. I had seen that solution before on one of the Jeep forums, forgot about it.
    Thanks again
    Mark
     
  7. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    holy carp my son in law has a whole bunch of these nos from a chevy dealer ….never thought about what they fit.
     
  8. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    T series is Standard's "economy" line. Not a good choice IMO. $6 for their quality offering: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SLS27 Brake Light Switch | RockAuto

    Usually the T series part has a gray box, and the regular Standard is red.

    I'd also name and shame your "quality" supplier without any reservations.
     
    dane71 likes this.
  9. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  10. mike starck

    mike starck Member

    I guess I have lived a very sheltered life for the last 74 years.I have not encountered the failure rate of the little hydraulic brake light switch that has been around since the beginning of hydraulic brake systems. Don't get me wrong ,I have replaced several over the years that failed after many years of service.Just wondering if it truly is the quality issue or a change in brake fluid itself. No problems here with any of my classic vehicles so I guess that's a good thing. Such a simple switch ,seems like a lot of trouble to convert to mechanical switch. mike
     
    ojgrsoi and PeteL like this.
  11. garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    For a while, I replaced one every year on my '53 3A that barely gets used. After the 3rd one went, that when I converted.
     
  12. garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    This took me about five minutes to put in my jeep.

    And for what its worth, this switch is off my parts 55 chevy truck. If you can take an original switch out of the junkyard and it still works, its a better design.

    [​IMG]
     
    Hellion and ojgrsoi like this.
  13. Greevesman

    Greevesman Member

  14. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    Well, no brake lights again. I change these switches more often than I change my oil. I have tried the low pressure one referenced above, Ive tried ones from Painless wiring, AC Delco, & Standard. I give up. I'm going to convert to a mechanical switch like Nate did.
     
    garage gnome and 47v6 like this.
  15. fourtrail

    fourtrail Built not Bought

  16. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

  17. 45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I think garage gnome's option is the better option as appose to '76 CJ switch. Simpler installation. JMO
     
    Hellion likes this.
  18. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Interesting thought. My Harley switch lasted 25-plus years, and uses DOT#5.
     
  19. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Thanks for the link--I wasn't quite sure how these worked or exactly which parts moved and why.
    Good read :study:...and that animated GIF is amazing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
  20. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor