Is Anything Easy? Timing Chain Cover Removal?

I figured since I was doing this rebuild thing I should just replace a $40 water pump. One less thing to brake down later, right? I broke the head off one of the longer bolts on the water pump. (The 7 o’clock bolt) After removing the pump I welded a nut to the broken bolt 3x, but After several days the bolt is still stuck and new water pump is still on the bench. So removing the timing chain cover I get to where broken bolt is in the block.

Remove water pump - remove 5 bolts holding timing cover - remove 2bolts at front of oil pan -remove timing chain cover. Well all the bolts came out easy but the cover isn’t budging.

Maybe the cover is corroded to the long broken bolt? I put some heat to the area but I get an idea I shouldn’t heat the aluminum cover to much? Is the fuel or oil pump holding things up? Any ideas would be great.

 

Pan bolts out?
Hit it with a rubber mallet until it loosens up from all sides.

 

Yes.
I have a rubber mallet. I’ll try that.

 

Don't go nuts, hit it firmly until it frees up. Don't break it.

 

Have you tired the hot candle wax trick?

 

You will want to remove the fuel pump. Not that it would necessarily prevent the cover from coming off, but without it, it may be easier to twist the cover back and forth to break the bond of the corrosion, if that's all that is holding it.

 

I sure will when I can get to the base of the bolt. The cover needs to come off first, that is the current issue.

 

You did get the short bolts buried down low on either side of the crankshaft? If so, than the broken bolt is seized and heat and penetrant soaking will be the answer.
-Donny

 

I did get the 5 bolts off (plus 2 for oil pan) per the manual. I've been spraying PBBlaster on the one broken bolt for several days.
Is heat going to damage the aluminum timing cover if I heat it harder?

 

The subject bolt looks like its just above the oil pump? Those long bolts can rust/fuse in the alloy housing holes if they are not coated with anti-seize compound. I would heat the outside rib/bulge where the bolt is stuck with a propane torch (as commonly used for copper plumbing work) several times, keeping a good penetrant oil to soak in as the metal expands and contracts from the temperature change.
From where the break is, the bolt broke because it is stuck so tight in the timing cover. It never got a chance to twist as you were loostening it. Heat is probably what will eventually loosen it up.
-Donny

 

I would remove the fuel pump . just because arm rides on cam shaft . and you'll need it off it install cover again
what donny said . only use a propane torch . aluminum doesn't change colors . strike end of broken bolt with a flat punch . to shock it
and by luck you get cover to move 3/16" . but cover is still stuck . cut bolt off at block . if you get enough room for a cut off wheel

 

A more radical way may be to drill a small hole through that rib and keep pitting the PB Blaster to it. It wont affect it structurally, but for sure use lots of anti-seize when reassembled and plug the drilled hole with RTV to keep water out.

 

I have a small chip and a crack. But it’s still not off.

 

Here is offensive bolt.
Heat and hammer.
Heat and hammer.

Now to get that bolt out.

 

I’m going to start a new thread about the timing chain. Should I replace it now?

 

The answer is always yes.