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Drive Shaft Woes. Aka Dana 30 Swap.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Buildflycrash, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I’ll need to make a wtb post once we figure out exactly how to proceed.
    The front shaft seems correct at the TC using a smaller U-joint. Like this-
    [​IMG]
    but the u-joint on the D30 axle is larger (spicer 1310)
    [​IMG]

    I could solve the problem easiest by maybe getting a different sliding part on the front of the front shaft that holds the larger 1310 joint.
    [​IMG]

    Probably better (because all joints would match) but much more expensive would be changing the TC front pinion (I think that’s what it’s called) and getting a new/different drive shaft with all the large 1310 joints.

    The rear shaft is good ( but maybe not OE) with both ends using the larger 1310 joint.
     
  2. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Swap the yoke on the transfer case to a 1310 and throw away the old driveline.
     
    Jrobz23 likes this.
  3. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    throw it to me if you throw it
     
    cookieman likes this.
  4. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    The problem with the little drivelines is that the slip joint wore out on the way home from the dealer when they were new. Just plain unnecessary junk. Put a 1310 driveline on and never look back.
     
    Jrobz23 and dnb71R2 like this.
  5. Mike C

    Mike C Member

    The M38A1 front shaft is a 1310 so it is a direct swap if you can find one out there.
     
  6. termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Almost what i did;)
    Swapped the yoke and found a longer driveshaft from a cj7 or yj? And cut it down to fit.
     
    Buildflycrash likes this.
  7. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I’ll bet I could find a shaft like that.
    Got new larger yoke for my Dana18 From QuadraTec.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2018
  8. Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    I swapped these two, removed the Dana 30 yoke (on the right) and installed the one on the left.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Checked my travel at full stuff and full droop and it all worked great (y)

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    This was on the axle right? To get rid of the straps and use the stronger u-bolts?
     
  10. Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Yes on the pinion, swapped it so I could keep the stock drive shaft u-joint.
     
  11. 1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    So what did the yoke on the right come from? Is that the original D27 part?
     
  12. Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    It came off a CJ transfer case, I learned the hard way that the D27 yoke doesn't fit on the D30 pinion. I might have another if you need me to check?
     
  13. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    So you took the smaller yoke off a spare transfer case and put it directly on the D30 axle? Done! Used same old shaft?
    I'll take it (buy it) if you have a spare and run it for now like that , until its not functioning well anyway.
     
  14. 1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Thank you for the offer! I am not planning to do this conversion very soon though, I was just wondering for future reference.
     
  15. Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Exactly what I did and used the same drive shaft without modification (although I don't have the little shaft with slip joint like yours). I don't expect it to stop functioning well, why would it? The only motivation I can think of to change it would be to get all the U-joints to match so I didn't have to carry separate spares.

    I'll look when I get home and see if I have another.
     
  16. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Be very careful with the original Shaft on a Dana 30 swap as the Dana 30 usually requires about an inch shorter driveline. The best way is to get rid of the small yokes and poor design of the original cast slip joint and replace with 1310 u-joints and the proper length shaft. Doing it right the first time may save you a broken transfer case down the road if your driveline is too long and bottoms out when fully compressed.
     
  17. Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I know I should take this advice and I already have those parts ordered (except finding a good donor shaft). I'm just looking for an easy way out. But I know where that will lead. :steamed: