1955 Cj5 Moneypit Build

I reused the original boot and ring.

 

Seems like a dumb question but how do you measure engine offset? I've been measuring from oil pan lip to frame rail. Front and back. Driver's side is 7.5" and passenger is 8.5"

 

Center of the crankshaft to the frame on both sides. As long as the pan rail is equidistant from crank centerline, I would say your good.

 

Offset is the distance from centerline, not the difference in the measurements from each side. In your example (assuming the pan is centered and symmetrical), if centered, your measurements would be 8" on each side. Your offset in this instance is only 1/2".

 

Measured from crank pully bolt - 1" offset seen better in this picture.

I still can't figure out what to do with the transmission crossmember. I bought the kit from Novak-Adapt and they're working to find a solution too. The kit is supposed to be set up to where I can use the stock crossmember in it's stock spot but after a ton of fenageling and re-measuring, and more squaring up, everything is now sitting where it should be... Still off about 1" from original mounting points on the crossmember. The only solution to this that I can think of is adding some metal to one side and cutting some from the other side or having my engine/tranny sit at an angle.

With the offset, I need to figure out my steering... The picture shows the arm sitting on the engine mount. I can go up, but it will get really close to the headers.

 

Slow progress right now; not much to update.

I have decided to do swinging pedals, power brakes, and a hydraulic clutch. Can anyone here tell me if the parts below will work? I know I may need to work on the pedals a bit.

Hydraulic throwout bearing:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/ram-78125hd/overview/

Master cylinder and brake booster:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/rsd-g753705/overview/

Brake pedal rod extension:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/sum-760125/overview/

Power Booster Mounting Brackets:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/tff-4652a/overview/

Clutch master cylinder:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/wil-260-1304/overview/

Wilwood Pedals:
https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/wil-340-13834/overview/

 

IF anyone is still following, still not much to update here. I've been working through my pedal situation and may have found a solution. I have the wilwood pedals but having problems getting the brake pedal to mount without hitting the steering column. Saw a thread on Saturday about the Mahindra Roxor. They sell a swinging pedal setup that mounts behind the steering column. Really hoping this works. I've also decided to go with the hydraulic clutch, with a slave cylinder on the fork and I won't be running a booster.

 

I’m following and I think the roxor pedals may be a better solution according to others in that post.

 

I just posted this in the Roxor Pedal Assembly thread. Instead of the Wilwood pedals, I ordered myself the Roxor pedal assembly. Brand new and $72.99 tax included. Took about a week to get in.

Here we go. First fitment tries were a rousing success. The ONLY two things I'm worried about are (1) The pivot angle - If these pedals go as far as the springs allow when all set up, they will hit the floor; and (2) I may cut the right backing plate about 1/4" to allow for more brake pedal clearance from my summit racing steering wheel.

I plan on pushing this cluster up as far as I can on the firewall and mounting. I'm not sure what to do with the mounting holes to the dash though. Thinking about welding some threaded studs to the inside of the dash. If any one has some ideas, I'd love to hear them!

Now for measurements:

Overall backing plate width: 10"

Overall backing plate height: 9"

Top of pedal arm to bottom of brake pedal: 14.75" to 15". The pedal support arm is tilted up as you can see in the pictures

Total height: 14". My measurement may be off just a tad but it fits nice and snug from the firewall to the dash. No play between the two!!

Outside Pedal to Outside Pedal: 5.25"

Another measurement I don't know what to call: 4.5"

Very rough spacing pictures (pedals are tilted a bit. Didn't have help getting these to stay and no bolts attached at this point):

 

Mounting this assembly may have been the easiest thing I've done on my build. 4 bolt holes to get it lined up and in place. Took me maybe 30 minutes. Once all bolted up, I cut a hole for the clutch master cylinder. Still to do to get this thing 100% done: 1. cut hole for brake master cylinder. 2. Figure out how to mount the front of the pedal assembly to my dash. If you're not worried about bolts through the dash, all you have to do is drill 3 holes and bolt up. 3. If there is any play in the firewall after mounting to the dash, I will add a thick piece of metal in the engine compartment.

Before playing with the pedal throw, pedals stuck up pretty far making it seem like it would be hard to brake:

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After messing with the throw a bit; the pedals both move 4.5" before they hit the floor. I'm sure I'll fine tune this once I get my hydraulic clutch and brakes all set in:

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Clutch master cylinder connected:

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Really great build. Hard work pays off. Thank you for sharing

 

Brake booster and Master Cylinder Update.
Everything sent in smoothly, my only gripe is that the brake booster and pedal assembly did not come with a pivot pin. Luckily I had one lying around that fit. If you're doing this in steps, be sure to make holes in the firewall that fit the 4 master cylinder/brake booster studs (there are 6 of them) and do not drill the two round holes out. They are not needed.

One of the unneeded holes is seen here. There is another one on the other side of the plunger.

 

While waiting on the brake booster/master cylinder from Roxor, I worked on getting the bikini top and pedal assembly attached to the dash. Pics below.

 

This thing is looking good and moving fast

 

I'm a bit lost here. I'm hooking up my throttle cable. XJ pedal and edelbrock carb.

When I connect the throttle cable to the carb, it looks correct but when I push on the carb throttle, it pushes the cable out towards the cab in the wrong direction.

What I thought was correct at rest:

What the cable does when I open the throttle (goes the wrong way for the pedal):

This seems to work but obviously not correct:

Am I missing a part? Surely this can't be that tough....

 

Is this what I need?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1481/overview/

 

I overreacted a bit tonight...

This is what I was supposed to do... Cut the inner cable too short though so I'll have to be replacing that. The pedal at full depress is currently about 2" from the floor.

 

Time to update. Really not much has happened; just getting the body ready for paint and dry fitting things. One problem I've run into is my hood. As you can see from the pictures, it's not sitting correctly. Any thoughts on getting this to fit?

Also, how high is the grill supposed to sit above the rails? I have rubber pucks about 1" thick over the rest of the body for mounts.

 

No much to update - Been busy with life and the job. I did find some time to re-do the frame since the Rhino Liner didn't stick due to bad primer. Since then, I've been working on blocking and sanding the body here and there. Weather is getting colder so most of my spare time has been in the heated garage putting everything on for the "final time". Engine, carb, distributor, wires, etc are all in - only thing missing now is the exhaust. Brake lines have been routed, need 2 T's to finish that off. I'm about to put oil into the T-90 and transfer case but had a question. I assume they use the same type of oil; what should I get? Gear oil instead of transmission oil?