A Leak Free Transfer Case?

Do we have a single definitive thread about how to assemble a model 18 transfer case, and have it be leak free?
(No laughter! )
Trying to do a search on this topic yields about a million results....
I'm getting ready to rebuilt this tcase out of my dad's jeep, and I would really like to make it as tight as possible. I've rebuilt several of them, but it's been a few years and they always seem to have a few leaks here and there. I have Novak's rebuild kit, and the FSM.

 

To keep it from leaking, don't put any fluid in it.

 

I think some have claimed to be leak free . I have never seen one a year later
for some reason I can live with leaks
as long as it isn't on parking brake

 

It seems CJMark over on the flat fender tech page has had good results with sealing up both the trans and transfer case. The See the "T-90 counershaft leak" thread.
-Donny

 

Double seals on on the output shafts, aircraft sealer on the output shaft shims, liquid Teflon on all through bolts, silicone on the pan gasket, and a valve stem seal on the speedo output. I get a dime size drip once a week.

 

To add to the above post I would add keep your trans/transfer case clean and inspect often to pin point leaks.I have done this in my quest to prevent leaks.Most leaks can be repaired without removing gearbox.Just stay on it and you will have some success. If a leak pops up 6 months later just fix and maybe find a better solution.I left my skid plate off for better access while I was searching for source of leaks. I too use multiple sealants and think the Gearoil RTV shows promise.mike

 

Good Luck, I put a Novak kit in mine about three years ago, it seems to be holding up well so far. I don't look, but I don't see any oil on the plywood that I keep under my Jeep. My parking brake works real well and I don't have any oil on it so I guess my seals are still holding. If you are putting a new intermediate shaft in, I cut my old one to just fit in the gear and hold the needle bearings in so you can push he new shaft in and the cut one out without loosing all the needle bearings, just s suggestion, it made it easier for me. The hard part is getting the shims right, I put it all together dry first and checked the end play until I got what I wanted, then took it apart and sealed it up. I hope this helps, it was a long slow process, but it's working so far. Good Luck, Rick