4wd Question // '73 Cj

Is is imperative that I "regularly" (every few months or so?) lock the hubs and put my cj in 4WD low and/or high? Is it a problem to go a long period without doing so?

 

Not imperative. A good idea though. If the Jeep just sits, nothing bad will happen. If you are driving it, I don't see any reason not to. Just locking in the hubs should be enough to move the oil around - not sure you need to exercise 4WD.

 

Much more important on a 71 and older Jeep. The model 25 and 27 axles were not designed to have locking hubs on them. With locking hubs no grease/oil is flung up to the upper trunion bearing in the knuckle and the bearing dries out and causes problems. On an open knuckle Dana 30 or 44 it is not an issue.

 

Other than rust on the ring gear if it gets a lot of condensation in it.

 

Thank you for the 4WD feedback. I am a year in on this forum/this jeep and my pics are way, way overdue. I am interested in anyones feedback on what may look fishy (or not orig). I have removed roll bar, replaced drums, mast cyl and seats (from high to low back) and a long list of minor things. Nothing special...Just a little inline 6 that has been a lot of fun....

 

Not really an issue out here but good point.

 

With the craze temperature swings here Anything metal sweats here in the spring,summer,and fall if you store it inside and heat in the winter you get some then too.

 

Wheat is the best cheapest way to keep my rear axle locked in 4 wd all winter?do I need to by a n Aussie Locker?

 

My recent acquisition '74 has rusty ring and pinion from sitting so much without having the hubs turned in for a long time, so I get to rebuild it, and I'm fairly close to Bonney Lake. Of course, the previous owner did a hack job on the rear as well, so both will get rebuilt as soon as our shop dies down.

 

When I opened up the front diff cover on my '70 cj5 after I got it, the upper half of everything was rusty.



The oil that came out looked like caramel sauce.