1967 Cj-6 4.3 V6 700r4 - Engine Swap And Build

Shes on the road as of yesterday. Was a 2.5 year haul and has been fun and a lot of learning for me. Just wanted to close the loop. My only real complaint is the ride. Its super rough.

 

psst....you forgot to put the hood on.

nice jeep though. and yeah, she is going to be super rough.

 

James do you have a part number for the BDS springs? Also do you know off hand how many leaves/springs are in the pack (F/R)? Just asking as I might try to remove one or two leaves as a start before I go buy new springs.

I suspect the ProComp kit assumes a V-8 and a full cage and a winch and a tire carrier. Who knows.

Thanks.

 

Looks good!

 

Thank you brother. It was a ton of work as everyone predicted. I am pretty elated on how it all turned out.

 

I have a D30 and AMC20. Both came out of a 1980 CJ7. Got em cheap.... ;-) Anyway, So I had custom fit a few parts like spring perches and spring plates so it all worked.

Wish I had gone BDS from the beginning but who knows. Maybe that wouldnt fix my issue. Ill take a look at the website. Thanks for sending.

 

I'm going to order some, Alcan Spring - Manufactures Fine Custom Leaf Springs for mine.

 

Yes. I kept the original spring width to the 1967. So I had to custom make the perches on the AMC (they had to be moved inward on each side) and then the spring plates as well on both fronts and back.

I went with the theory that if I do not go to a wider spring there will be less mass in the spring and should ride more subtle.... I guess that didn't work. I think my next real step is to move the shackle hanger location in the rear so I get a more angled shackle. Grind Grind Grind. I will move them forward 2". See what that gets me.
I really don't want to be throwing money at it for new springs quite yet since the springs are virtually new. Thanks for your ideas!

 

I installed a Rancho lift 20 years ago and had to remove springs leafs to soften/level ride.Later acquired another Rancho equipped cj5 that was rough riding and to tall.Removed spring leafs on that one to get the ride I wanted.No adverse effects on either vehicle. Bottom line is don't be afraid to play with the suspension you have before buying another brand. I also run Monroe standard shocks on both.

 

Thanks for the feedback!

 

A wider , flatter & longer spring reduces the spring frequency and therefore softens the ride.....and yes you need to get the shackle angle correct at ride height with all the weight in the vehicle......This is where you should start.............and if your looking for lift / Arc and a nice ride in a spring.........those too factors rarely occupy the same space...................look at the drawing..

 

Keep in mind the shackle angle is what makes a leaf spring work.........both front & rear.......take that away and it stiffens the spring rate........on new springs we like to start that angle at about 15-20 degrees and when worn in they may approach 30-40 degrees.........and we only normally move the fixed spring location.......and stay away from stiff non-adjustable shocks........a stock shock in this application will work better.

 

So James. I am not sure what the difference in the BDS springs vs. the springs I have is, but if they are the same length then ostensibly it will not affect my shackle angles on the front or rear. That is my understanding. It might be one less leaves so maybe softer but it wont change the shackle issue. Unless they are longer. Right?

 

Your Normally working with two dimensions............1) is the eye to eye length which is just a static number that the spring at rest measures between the eyes......which is the same dimensions eye to eye +/- of your frame mounts including your shackle at a reasonable starting angle.....too short and the spring will try to invert when the suspension is in droop or hanging down..........too long and the shackle could bottom out and kill the springs performance .........just right is when at ride height the shackle is leaning back in the rear or forward in the front at an angle somewhere between say 20-45 degrees.

The number 2) dimension is the actual physical length of the spring material itself following the curve of the spring eye to eye..........This length is always longer than the basic eye to eye length and much longer in a lifted spring because of the High Arch and extra length added to build the Arc.............Again high Arcs are about lift & not ride.......if your lift choice is about making more room for tire clearance first try cutting some sheet metal in the areas that are hitting..................... trying to remove leafs from a high arched spring can be done...........but the results are always clouded because as you reduce the lift and weight carrying capacity of the spring set it will always resist trying to fit and cycle in a space smaller than it was designed for........People have tried using longer shackles to accomplish that and in some cases it will help....but the results are never that great.

The best solution overall to get the exact results you want the first time is have a set of springs built..............it's not that much more to do so.......and obviously much less frustrating than complaining about a rough ride............First put all your gear in the vehicle.......including how many passengers & dogs , spare tire ETC.........borrow a set of axle scales and weigh each corner........and with that info call Deaver in LA or Alcan in Colorado and they will build you a set of springs that will ride like an old Cadillac Coupe De Ville as long as the weight given is in the vehicle at all times..........more weight and it will be softer and less weight a little harsher..............Your choice!