What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

yes

 

Been doing bondo work on the hood to get rid of the Jeep curse. got it in primer.

 

Got around to the reconfiguration of my fixed in place rear seat. Now I've got a pickup or a 3 seater .

Now for the 'I feel like an Idiot part ' :
I adjusted the right front wheel bearing , after I initially didn't get it right when new a short time ago. it went well until the Selectro HD reinstall.
I cannot, for the life of me, get the shift knob cap back onto the base ? It goes on as far as just barely covering the O ring, but then the retaining screws will not seat into the base ring ? I 've tried every which way, for an hour, but I finally had to walk away.
Can any one advise an Idiot of what he's doing Wrong ?
Thanks in advance.

 

Maybe this will help.

 

No........ It didn't.

 

The o-ring, has it got gasoline or other solvent on it causing it to swell?

 

No.... that's not it. It seems to be ' bottoming out ' on the knob inner plate . I think I'll just open it all the way , on the bench. There's got to something wrong in the cap knob?
Thank's

 

It's been a long time since I worked on one of those type hubs. But if I remember correctly there are some alignment to do with the cap screws and the slide gear, cam ect I just don't recall exactly.

 

This rings a bell. It’s been a while, but IIRC, some hubs are clearanced so the teeth can only to go together one way without interference issues against something inside the mechanism. Try pulling the cap back off and clock it 90° or so until it fits.

 

Thanks Gent's ....I'll let ya'all know what I discover

 

There is some original DualMatic instructions on this thread: Dualmatic Hub Installation Specs

Maybe you need to rotate the wheel so the indents for the cams in the outer housing and the piece on the axle line up.

 

Ok ...... Got it on. The cam that is in the cap / knob & goes over the sliding gear looked to be slightly ' cocked' . It would, however move slightly in & out , from the spring pressure. I remember that it does ride on a ramp when engaging . I slightly loosened the outer cam screws & put the knob on & I did try it 90 degrees , the way you suggested . No difference . I decide to use a puller , with the jaws on the hub base & the drive screw in the center of the cap/ knob. Sorta like a press. It went on enough on one side to get the retaining screw into the groove . It was still a bit cocked , when I took the puller off 'cuz now it felt bottomed out. I rotated the wheel & tapped the high side & it went on square ! Tightened the other two screws ., wiped it down , & it engaged / disengaged very smoothly. I really think I was fighting the spring pressure. Not as strong as I used to be , I guess.
Thanks a ton you guys, it helps to get the guy doing the job to start thinking a problem out.

 

Today I worked on my frame, welding away at the cuts I had made previously. I don't think it was my day though, because I spent most of the time wondering why my welds were coming out lousy, and finally realized that I forgot to turn the bottle on. What a HUGE difference that makes! I have lots of grinding ahead of me.

I also arc flashed myself, so yeah.... not the best jeep day, but progress is progress.

 

After yesterday's mediocre performance with the welder, I decided to do something sketchy and fun... I rigged up my wood lathe and spun my front axle shafts to polish seal surfaces. It worked really well, and I'm super happy with the end result.

 

Replaced a wheel lug stud. Stripped by tire store.



installed new bump stop.





add tow hook to the rear frame. I’m not confident my bumper would hold if I pulled hard.






All on the driver side. Work on passenger side tomorrow.

 

Yep, air-hammer it until it stops moving. I generally take the wheels off and throw them in the truck when I go to the tire store anymore. Then I can put them on with a torque wrench at home.

 

Boo! Hopefully it's an easy fix.