Cracked transfer case-?

A broken tooth would have been accompanied by a huge bang, IME.

But physically it seems much more likely than the driveshafts topping out. The axle dropping with gravity does not have enough force to pull the case apart IMO.

 

Ok so I've got some more pictures, perhaps it may help in determining or eliminating the cause for the crack.

the back driveshaft measured 1 1/2 inches while attached, and measured two inches all the way out, so it haves a 1/2 inch to give. It's the stock driveshaft, shouldn't that be enough "play"

 

The front driveshaft was just the same except it measures 2" attached and 2 1/2 inches all the way out, so again 1/2 to give.

 

The bushing were replaced, the bottom is rubber and the top red one is polyurethane. I might add that both bolts were tight. Maybe I tighten them too much not allowing enough flex or cushion.

Are these bushings suppose to be tight?

 

The last picture are of course the crack. It's pretty good, not sure if it is even repairable. Everything still turns freely and did not see any broken teeth. Nothing rubs. How do the gears look?





once again thanks for the input!

 

Snug but not tight enough to crush the rubber.........Not sure when those got replaced but it looks like the head of that bolt has been in contact with the base of that transfer case many times in the past.......That alone will enhance the chances of damage to any drive-train............essentially there is really no cushion effect being applied there.

I'm in the Transportation Business and I pay close attention to our motor , Transmission and axle mounts and links just for that reason.

I know I'll take some heat on this but that factory Willys offset plate is about as lame as an excuse for a proper way to mount that, I would bet the factory was using up some old inventory and designed that offset plate that effectively does nothing!.........rubber shock mounts are designed to be directly in line with the force they are reacting against...............I have seen this done before, and have seen plenty used by folks here , but from a pure common since approach it is all wrong!

 

you checked the driveshafts for pull out but did you check them for push in? It could have cracked the case by pushing the shaft through and busting out the other side. Do you have a shackle reversal in front?

 

Its not just the weight of the axles. It is the weight of the axles + the amount of spring capacity at the point where the drive shaft tops out.
Add to the the slide hammer effect of that topping out if that in fact is what happened.

Not sure if we can tell from the length pictures without disconnecting one end and see how far they will extend.
Also does the vehicle have a lift? Longer then normal shocks?

Any sign of water in the transfer case? Its been cold...

 

Ok for tarry99, I had to double check what you mentioned and although I may look like the top of the bolt had been hitting the bottom of the transfer case, it doesn't. There is an indention on the bottom of the t case that makes it look like that.

as far as the driveshaft extending out it was 1/2 in h for both front and back. As far as the drive shafts collapsing in for each front in back it was at least 2 1/2 - 3 inches.

no lift, no reverse shackles. Everything on the jeep is stock.
and no sign of water, fluids looked normal.

thanks

 

Maybe I'm thinking outside the box here...but could it just be a freak incident.... A crack in a 40 year old piece of cast steel doesn't seem to far out of the real of possibility... Maybe there was a casting flaw or something in that area and after many decades of vibration/heat/stress....it just gave up. I really have no idea. Its just a thought.

 

Haha, man I hope your right millennium falcon, that would be the best guess yet and believe me, I'm hoping that's the case. It is reasonable and possible. Just trying to get some ideas and feedback from the gurus in case I've done something wrong when putting it back together. Don't want to put a new one on for it to happen again. But I like your thinking, and I hope your right.

 

Is your engine stay cable intact?

 

Engine stay cable?

 

"...and heard what sounded like a rock flipping up and hitting..."

I'm putting my bet with AKCJ. That noise could have beeen a tooth, or a bearing roller, going through the gears.

BTDT with differentials.
Have you looked for particles in the gear oil?

 

If you pay shipping, I have an extra 18 case that I can send you. I am in Phoenix, AZ.

 

Do you have an engine stay cable attatched. I wonder if that could have anything to do with it.

 

I was thinking maybe someone put the fill plug in too tight and stressed the fill hole . but really can't tell with the paint that's still left on it

 

It would be intresting to know if the engine stay cable had anything to do with it.

 

Ok, I might sound stupid here, but what are y'all talking about the engine stay cable? Can some one explain please.

I don't think it was the fill plug being to tight sense the crack didn't originate from the fill hole. The crack is wider at the bottom of the t-case and tappers off as it proceeds up.

thank you for
the offer JeepJunkie, when I decide what route I'm going to go I may send you a PM about it. Right how I would like to see if I can just repair it.

 

the engine stay cable is a cable about 18'' long that went from the frame to a notch in the left side of the bellhousing. I limited the engines forward movement in the event of soft or damaged engine/tranny mounts. most people removed them because it appears to have no use, but it does.