Paint

I am starting a frame off resto on the body of our '64 CJ5. I am wondering how many rattle cans it might take to paint it? It is blue now and we will not be changing the color. I realize that their are plenty of variables so just an estimate. I painted a CJ2A in with spray cans in 1963 and do not recall how many I used then.
Thanks for the help.

 

I think I used about 2 for one coat of a 65 chevy cab, hood fenders and grill. It also faded fairly quick in a year, the sun in California...

now I used 3/4 of a gallon to spray two or three coats on the jeep, think rattle can paint without the rattle can. As you probably know it is probably easier to use a spray gun. I would go by how much paint is in each rattle can and go from there.

I used wheel barrow paint and yes it did fade I don't know if the paint back then had the same problem.

 

A Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun works very well. I have found them for $12. Don't need a lot of high pressure air about 25 psi.
Just a thought probably easier than using rattle cans.


Dave

 

cheaper too.

 

I have used rattle cans all my life until I finally bought a 10 dollar harbor freight purple hvlp paint gun and used my 30 gallon oil-free air compressor and got great results and it was so easy. I was always afraid of mixing ratios and such until I tried it. its so much easier than you think. I just painted my entire 48 cj2a body off and painted a m38 artic top wwii od green and I doubt that a professional would have done a better job than me. and it was my first hvlp paint job. not one run or anything, it looks perfect. the paint I used cost my $39 for one gallon and that did the whole jeep.

my 2 cents if you have a ok air compressor and a 12 harbor freight hvlp gun you should give it a shot. just remember you need clean air so I would recommend a water trap and a plastic screw on air filter next to the gun.

I will soon try painting my 59 cj5 Meyers hard top with Rustoleum semi-gloss white paint and I have high hopes.

 

The rustoleum is fine for frames and whatnot. I have used it before. thin with naphtha or what the can states to a nice thin stream. Use a cone filter to get out the clumps if there is any.

Other than that, go to your local auto paint supplier and get some cheap enamel. run a cheap 2K primer or epoxy and apply paint. read about this online. read the directions on the can. by the end of the job it will cost less look better and last a whole lot longer.

The most important thing is that you wear an organic vapor cartridge respirator either way. The hardener in the auto paint has isocyanates in it that will kill you. if you're scared wear a tyvek suit. most of the danger is airborne though.

 

If you want to go cheap, we've discussed tractor paints a lot here. Valspar and Van Sickle come to mind - ca $30/gal. Here's the Van Sickle page - http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html

Real automotive paint from Kirker (in standard colors) will be harder and more durable, but the materials will cost at least twice as much as an industrial enamel. Free color chips here - http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/kirker-paint-products-c-1433.aspx - and Smart Shoppers sells Kirker - http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html

If you worry about fading, a 2-stage system with base and clear coat will be the most fade resistant. A quality clear has UV blockers that will retard fading. Or, pick colors that are more fade resistant, not reds, oranges and yellows (cadmium colors). Or keep the Jeep covered when not in use.

 

If you use rustolem (as i did)get a 8oz. can of hardener.use a paint roller an sand between coats for a good bace. then spray a thin coat for top.

 

Thank youall for the ideas and help. Harbor Freight opened a store in Rapid City recently and it is just like the flyers they send out. My yf calls it a man store. I will head over there soon.

Thanks Tom