Rear Calipers -- Eldorado vs. S10

I did a disc/disc swap on my '73 CJ5 last year. Rear calipers were Eldorado, with parking brake. I got the calipers from somebody else's project, and they are now leaking.

One of the guys I got parts from -- I think it might have been R&P -- said that was better to use S10 calipers, since the Eldorado calipers could be a PIA to bleed, etc.

So...should I go with new/reman Eldy calipers, or switch over to S10 calipers (and if I do that, put in a line-lock or not)???

 

Line locks have been discussed here before, if you search. http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...c-brake-locks-a-good-idea&highlight=line+lock

My take is that they are handy if you are staying in the driver's seat, but never trust it as a parking brake.

 

Don't think I have room for it....CJ-5 with a T-18a and Dana 20...rear driveshaft is only about 16.5" already.

 

I could be wrong but I don't think the stock e-brake set-up takes up any driveline length.


http://www.novak-adapt.com/images/graphics/model_18_exp.gif
http://www.willys-overland.com/misc/CJ2-14 - Emergency Brake Drum Casting Date.jpg

 

Don't go there....Plan "C" is reserved for finding a CJ-6 frame body and title and swapping everything over so I can have room for the dog.

 

Mico Locks are better type of line lock, IMHO.

BTW, I am running S10 calipers on mine, they work good. I do not have an e-brake set up as of yet.

 

Soooo.... if I go that route, what S10 calipers do I go for? Year range, or are they all the same?? Any gotcha's swapping from the Eldys?

 

I am doing a 4 wheel disc brake swap and have a ton of parts on the way. I did the Cadillac Eldorado Seville calipers. I am a retired master auto tech and have history with these calipers as they were on cars I was working on "back in the day". Like a lot of oddities in the auto world they were misunderstood as problematic when mechanics could not figure them out. Cadillacs are automatic transmissions and most people never use the parking brake so the calipers went out of adjustment and also emergency brake cables sticking would effect the self adjust feature. So, yes these are sticky, leaky calipers that need to have properly working brake cables. In light of all of that they are one of the most popular calipers for street rodders because there are not many other choices. For my swap I am replacing everything from the booster and master to the wheels with either new or remanufactured. I am at a little over $700 in parts at this point. As for anything that is hydraulic in a braking system I will not do used parts and here is why. Brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic and absorbs water really well in fact like a sponge. I throw away any brake fluids that have been sitting around for this reason. I have heard brake fluid can even absorb water through brake hoses. The water decreases the boiling point and causes corrosion inside all hydraulic parts. So, if your calipers were used that could be a reason for premature failure. I would replace them with the Cadi calipers as you will have an ebrake. There are a ton of hot rod supply places that have them for under $200 all loaded with pads and ready to drop on. I happen to find someone who had a pair he did not use on a project and they were $125 shipped to my door. Ebay search "metric brake caliper" you will find both flavors. I am doing a line lock on the front only so I can have all four wheels locked when winching someone out. If you do not mind Can I ask a few questions? Where was your leak? What did you use for brake cables? Did you use the thinner jeep rotors on the rear and cut either the axles or rotors to fit?

 

FWIW, did some googling today...recommended calipers include:

72-87 Chev 3/4 ton truck calipers ('79 prior are SAE, '80-on are Metric)
78-87 GM A & G body front calipers
79 Monte Carlo
1978 K20 front calipers