Something Just Broke

POP!!!




I meet WorkInProgress and borrowed his puller today. Just as I got home who pulls in the driveway? The FedEx truck with the puller I ordered and canceled (because it was shipped to TN). I received it anyway and went to work on the hub (yes I'll contact Amazon and tell them I have it and pay for it). First I tried the borrowed puller because it's built so much better. After pounding on the puller with my new BFH and applying some heat, I was afraid to ruin another guys tool. I unpacked the one I ordered and decided to try the rattle gun approach. That's when I heard the shot heard from around the world! It was a thing of beauty...I never thought this thing was coming off.

So with that behind me...How do I get the axle out? I put the hub on without the key and am using it as a slide hammer. The axle is wiggling all over the place but it doesn't want to come out. It feels like the break is right behind the bearing.

I want to throw a shout out to WorkInProgress and the forum. Thanks for the tool and thanks for running a site that allowed me to hook up with a local Jeep enthusiast!

~Focker

 

Finally...Success!

I had to heat the race and use the hub as a slide hammer. It's a clean break...The axle shaft is 19 spline.

 

I like the pry bar idea, I was just going to scrap it but I'll reconsider.

 

So, basically given my "wrong year axle" situation. What am I shopping for?
Pre '70 tapered axle parts?
Can I bolt 11" drums on the axle housing I have?

There's a '71 CJ-5 near me with... "Dana 44 axles front & rear, 488 gears, new Warn hubs, brakes and leaf springs. 3 speed trans and transfer case in good shape." - $1200

 

Thanks, I'll pass and just install the free replacement axle shaft. No spline breaks. Should I just go to Napa for a new seal, bearing and race? Or is there a online recommendation?

 

It's 19 spline, 29 3/4" long. I'll be picking it up on Friday.

 

Need some guidance.

1 - Does the castle nut look like it's on far enough? I'm having a hard time knowing if the hub is seated.
2 - What are the torque specs on the nut?

 

FSM says minimum 150 ft.lbs. Don't forget to re-torque them after you get a few miles on it.


Is it just me or are the stud's splined sections sticking a bit too farr out from the hub surface?


H.

 

I always used the hole in the axle as the guide - I wanted the cotter pin to just fit in the hole at torque.

 

You're right. The shop pointed it out to me but the drum's stud holes clear the splines.

Thanks for the torque specs everyone.

 

With the drum on do they extend beyond the drum's surface? I'm concerned that the wheel nuts/wheels may be tightening up against the stud's splined section rather than drawing the wheel all the way in against the drum/hub.

H.