1969 CJ5 project

I got the drivetrain out of the frame, the plasma made getting some of the leaf spring bolts out easy. The plan is to strip the frame down and remove the engine mounts and spring brackets, then box it in with 3/16 plate. This frame is really flimsy, boxing it in should help a lot.



Toothpick axles and the V6

 

I spent some plasma time and cut out the boxing plates for the rear, only need to cut out three more to finish the frame boxing. I'm going to mockup the axles and drivetrain before I weld the plates to the frame so I can weld nuts to the inside of the frame for where the springs hangers and skid plates will bolt to.

I'm using 1/8 plate to box the frame in, the local scrapyard sells steel for $.35 a pound. They have a lot of plate steel, I also got a piece of 3/8 to make my steering box bracket from.

Plates sitting in frame and my 4 speed/NP205, that t-case is a tight fit between those 27" wide frame rails.

 

And I got some rollers for it, they aren't mine but the same size as the tires I plan on running. I want to get the body sitting on the frame with the engine/tranny bolted in sitting on these tires in a week or two.

 

I got the rear frame rails strapped, I'll finish welding them after I get the frame sand blasted. I'm waiting on my spring hangers and then I can start getting a suspension under it.

 

I built a front bumper and got it on there, I'm going to use some 2x3 for the rear crossmember/bumper.

I need to clean this greasy thing up and put some seals in it along with the transmission.

 

Started building some motor mounts, I need to get a 9/16 drill bit for the tabs then I can weld them up.

 

Looks really really good.

Question: when you box the frame, how do you treat it so it doesn't rust on the inside?
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I'm planning on painting the inside before I box it and then spraying some undercoating in it.

 

I got some work done mocking up the suspension today.

The rear hangers bolted right in the factory holes, just had to drill them out to 1/2.



Here is how I mounted the front spring hanger to regain my wheelbase because of the longer spring. The wheelbase is at 104 right now, I'll have to see how it looks with the tub, fenders, and tires on it.



Tomorrow I need to fab up some shackle hangers for the rear and figure out where to french the front shackles.




Do you guys recomend bolting spring hangers on or welding them? I really don't want to weld them on because there is a chance they could rip the 1/8 strap off the frame. I was planning on using grade 8 1/2 bolts to hold them on.

 

I'll bolt and weld them then, I didn't want to only weld them because it could rip the strapping off the bottom of the frame.

 

I need some opinions on the front shackle angle, there is a factory hole on both sides that may work for the bushing to go in.

Shackle lined up with factory hole



Here is it with the shackle rotated forward a little bit.




Both these pictures are with only the weight of the bare frame on the springs, do you guys think that it will settle enough to place the shackle bushing in the factory hole or should I rotate if forward like the second picture? The factory hole in the frame is 7/16 but would work good for locating a hole saw to cut the bushing hole.

 

After looking at Rodney's build I think the second picture will give me a good shackle angle after the weight of the jeep is on the springs.

 

I mounted mine based on Dummy's article in JP. When unloaded, the shackle is perpendicular to the ground. When loaded, the shackle moved approx. 45 degrees, which is what I was aiming for.

I'm not sure how different it will be with a shackle reversal or different springs. I'm using JCWhitney's 7-leaf CJ rear springs all around. I would assume that softer springs would tend to flatten and push the shackle out more once loaded...

 

That's probably what I'll do, My 5 leaf waggy springs are a 960 lb spring and 7 leaf CJ rear springs are 900-1200 lb. I may angle the shackle a degree or two from perpendicular because of the V8. thanks for the info

Today I cut down the chevy crossmember, it will offset the NP205 1.5 inches to fit between the frame. I'll weld it after it's sandblasted, that transmission/t-case I got had to be the greasiest one in the whole junkyard.



Tomorrow I'm going to get some 2x3x3/16 tubing to make a rear cross member out of and some square tubing for motor mounts.

 

Put a spacer between the frame and spring for the distance you want.
Then leave the final mounting hole until all the weight is on it.
This will allow you to put the shackle angle exactly where you want.
Just an idea.

 

I think that is what I'm going to do.

It looks like I may have to outboard the rear springs to center the 14 bolt. Will it be bad to have outboarded rear springs and cj width spring spacing in the front?

 

That's how I did mine. :iagree: