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CJ2a Flatfender Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by 2a_toys, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    What are the plans for the fuel tank/cell? Those rear diagonal braces are a lot easier to get out before you mount the tub. Looking good!
     
  2. 2a_toys

    2a_toys New Member

    Thanks! diggin the look too. Got my seats yesterday and they are perfect! Really comfy too. Need to get the wheel houses notched to install them. Once that is done i can start planning the cage. I'll notch this weekend and post some pics of the seats sitting in it. The seat height seats me so that I look just above center of the windshield glass which is why i got them. Being tall I didn't want to be looking straight at the top bar of the windshild like other flatties i've sat in.

    I'm getting this RCI fuel cell to mount in the bed. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RCI-2161A/
    So the plan is to leave the braces in place. Only thing i could find to fit under it since I moved the axle back was a little 5-8 gallon tank. Anything bigger and they were too deep and the axle hit it when the suspension flexed. This one is near the same height as the wheel house and and almost as long front to back. The cool thing is it is only 9" wide so it doesn't take up much cargo space and it's 15 gallons. Haven't got it yet so if you have any better ideas i'm all ears.
     
  3. RandyYJ

    RandyYJ Member

    I went with something similar.....

    [​IMG]
     
  4. RandyYJ

    RandyYJ Member

    And there's just enough room in front of it for a cooler! (insert thumbs up here)
     
  5. 2a_toys

    2a_toys New Member

    Good lookin install on the tank and battery Randy! Same plan for the battery. I'm also thinking about putting my battery under the bed? Maybe use an Optima so I can mount it on its side?

    Installed (loosely) a seat this weekend to see what I needed to do. Ended up cutting the wheel house out to move the seat back 5 inches. Worked out that the rear mount of the seat falls right at the top of the riser panel which is perfect! Don't have to build a ton of structure for the seat mounts. Unfortunately the riser is pretty much completely rusted away. Wasn't going to do any body work until next winter, but since I'm now going to be mounting the seats to the tub I'm forced too...Oh well, guess it'll be done this way. Plans changed now, going to pull the tub this weekend, sand blast the inside, replace the rear floor, riser, patch the front floors and replace the hat channel supports. Hopefully that only takes a few weeks.

    Here's a pic of me sitting in it, think i'm going to move the steering mount up a bit too for a better angle. I'm happy with the seat height, I'm looking almost through the middle of the windshield.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. RandyYJ

    RandyYJ Member

    I wish I had cut my wheel wells and moved the seat back some as well. I feel like I'm eating my knees when I'm sitting in it and I'm not really that tall at all.
     
  7. 2a_toys

    2a_toys New Member

    still can...its not that bad a job. If you didn't want to disturb the paint you could cut it with a recip saw, move the piece you cut out back and pop rivit that piece and a filler? Just a thought. Just be sure the wheel misses the "box" when the axle articulates. I moved mine 5" but if the axle wasn't so wide and i didn't move the axle back, 3-4 would have been all she wrote. Me being 6'3" and most of that in my legs I had to move it back...couldn't hardly get in otherwise!
     
  8. 2a_toys

    2a_toys New Member

    So, started to tear into the tub last night. Pulled the "patches" out and HOLY ROTTEN BATMAN! This is the passanger side looking at the riser. Notice no front floor and the riser almost rusted in two!

    [​IMG]

    So, I spent about an hour with a recip saw and an air chizel. This is all that's left.

    [​IMG]

    Picked up some 1x2 0.125" wall box to make new hat channel supports, a sheet of 16 ga for the front floors and a sheet of 14ga diamond plate for the rear and the riser panel. Going to sand blast it this weekend and start putting it back together.
     
  9. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Don't feel bad.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. 2a_toys

    2a_toys New Member

    Update after 2 months of body work...sure looks different now. It's pretty much all new! Widened the bed 8 inches. pretty much wasted space under the fender wells because my axle is out of a Wagoneer and it sticks the wheels mostly outside the body. Used 1"x2" box for the floor supports instead of hat channel. Painted it inside and under with POR15 ( all the black). The orange is Alice-Chalmers Orange from a rattle can. Care of Tractor Supply. Will finish the body work this winter when I can't use the Jeep anyway. Summer is wasting!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    Lookin good!
     
  12. RandyYJ

    RandyYJ Member

    Coming right along. I like the diamond plate on the inside, it looks really durable.
     
  13. kercher

    kercher Member

    looks great...
     
  14. Kman

    Kman Member

    I like the diamond plate on the inside also.
     
  15. windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    Ooooh nice color!:drool:
     
  16. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    I remember this build from Pirate, snazzy!!
     
  17. bnorth10

    bnorth10 Wicked Willys Customs

    I like your idea of the fender wells since you have wider axles anyway. That will gain you a lot of interior room
     
  18. RandyYJ

    RandyYJ Member

    Any new progress? I'm taking your advice and cutting my wheel wells this winter. I just can't take it any longer.