Good sheetmetal source, or am I on crack?

No, I'm not on crack, but maybe I should be for thinking this.....

I have an old freezer that is rust free, and I'm needing some flat sheet metal to patch up a tub for my 71. I haven't really measured the thickness, so it may be a mute point. But, if the thickness is close, would this be a good source for some body panel sheetmetal? Would this be a lower grade metal that will not hold up over time?

TIA

 

I have obtained 20 gauge sheet stock from a single door refrigerator,the non textured surface type. It was easy to remove the inner liner and seal.30" x 48" turned into 26" x 44" useable stock,painted "avacado green" on one side

 

I used some school bus sheet metal to patch my fenders, nice and thick.

 

Used metal from old washing machines if I did it next time will just get metal sheets cut to size on a shear at the metal shop and not hassle with the paint removal etc.

 

If your looking for the correct thicknes of sheet metal to do body repairs it would be 18 gauge.

 

I don't know where else you would get it

 

I used some of the sheet metal from an old sheet metal fireplace stove that came out of a mobile home. R)

 

I once used an old washing machine case and pop rivets to patch a floorpan. The baked on finish held up well against rust. If your Jeep is avacado, white, or harvest gold you can even match the color

 

Nice. R)

 

I actually use a lot of old household 275 gallon oil tanks for steel stock on projects when I don't need perfect looks. About .10 inch, heavy enough to weld easily, and malleable enough to shape well. Free for the taking. Can be dirty, though.

 

Nothing wrong with canabalizing other stuff to get metal. I have recylced all kinds of stuff to save on material costs , such as unrolling scrap pipe or old rims. You just have to make sure the metal is the same general family to prevent dielectric corrosion and ensure weldability. If you are going to repair a structural part, such as the frame or a roll bar, then I would spring for fresh material for piece of mind . Body work is different,
you just have to make sure it isn't brittle to keep it from cracking during articulation.
Often die stamped sheet such as appliance metal will be work hardened in formed areas. Heat it up till it is non-magnetic and let it air cool slowly ( not with a fan).
If it is a flat piece, your solid. A fridge door should be good, as long as you stay several inches inside the formed areas.

 

I had a bunch of old fileing cabnits I used for spare sheetmetal .

 

I used some old computer equipment cabinets (stainless!) for repairs of my truck floor. Learned that stainless is a lot harder to work with than mild steel..

 

Dang - I almost feel guilty now.

I work at a sheet metal shop & we've go about 100 tons of metal in stock. Galvanized, stainless, aluminum, black iron, aircraft aluminum, pre painted, copper, brass, etc., etc.. Everything from 0.025" aluminum up to 1/4" steel.

If anyone needs a small piece of sheet metal for your Jeep project just stop by and I can probably give it to you for no charge.

 

Back in the mid 70's we used the top and sides of the old, old refridgerators-the ones with rounded top and doors - made the rear corners (taillight panel to wheel opening). We would take the sides and top off as one piece, cut it in half and bingo we had both corners. A little trimming with snips and several pop rivits and the damage was repaired.