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saginaw photos

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by johnsotd, Mar 9, 2008.

  1. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    I finally got it in and everything clears. I hope it works.
    Tommt
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  2. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    What bracket did you use? and does it clear the break, clutch, engine mount, and pedals?
     
  3. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Izzat the Jeepster mount John? Looks GUD!:beer:
     
  4. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    The mounting plate is one that I fabricated with 3/8 plate and pieces of tierod as spacers.
    I did abuut a million trial fittings and I think everything clears. I may have to make an adjustment to the brake pedal. All parts are from a '74 CJ5.
    Thanks for all the encouragement.
    Tommy
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    [​IMG]
     
  5. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    Here is how I decided to mount the steering column from the '74 CJ5 into my 2A. Your comments on weather or not this should be satisfactory will certainly be appreciated.
    Tommy
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    if you've welded the clamp to the plate, you've done good, put the bolt in and tighten it up.
    I know of one mounted that way that just broke the welds after 37 years of use.....
    Is the length into the engine compartment okay, or are you planning a cut and reweld there ?
    It all looks clean and very nice to me.
    I say good job !
     
  7. sammy

    sammy Coca-Cola?

    Very clean...
    Where's the break going to go? Swinging?
     
  8. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    Thanks for the feedback. The clamp is welded around the top half. I will cut a new hole for the brake petal to the right of the column. I may have to tweak the petal shaft a little since the brake arm had to be moved a little left to clear the dauntless bell housing. If y'all see anything that I should do differently please let me know.
    Thanks again for the feedback.
    Tommy
     
  9. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Nicely done! :golf clap:

    BTW- the longer column length may not be a bad thing when the steering box is mounted low enough to no have to notch the front crossmember. I'm thinking that the intermediate shaft might actually clear the engine mounts without having to notch as much (or any) metal out of them for clearance.

    Just one word of advice John: Sit in the driver's seat and make sure you have enough room under the steering wheel to move your knees to work the pedals. I got my entire conversion done and THEN discovered that the postal column was too low for me to get my feet up onto the clutch/brake pedals. I ended up grinding the mounting bracket off the column tube and moving the whole banana up about 2 inches, which of course required me to lengthen the intermediate shaft.

    YMMV. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2008
  10. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    :iagree: If this is your first conversion - Mockup, Mockup, Mockup. It may seem a waist of time, but you will find it easier to change the Mockup and build it once for each segment than multiple times as one little change can have a big ripple effect in the steering.

    I have done 'my way' conversions enough that I only mock the motor mount area (cause I never seem to use the same motor mounts) and the column for different combos.
     
  11. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    If I measured and marked correctly the intermediate shaft should clear the motor mounts between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. I shortened the intermediate shaft a little and test fit about 20 times but so far every issue resolved has presented two new ones. I will put the tub back on as soon as I finish the firewall and do my final check.
    Thanks for giving me something else to worry about---I have not sat behind the wheel yet.
    I will post when I find out what my next disaster is.
    Tommy
     
  12. BaconOffroad

    BaconOffroad New Member

    digging up an old post here... Can I see a closer picture of the passenger side knuckle?

     
  13. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    What you see is what I have, and I've since sold the Jeep.

    All I did was use the two-hole TRE but move it down from the bellcrank to the passenger side knuckle. I used Herm's pre-cut tie rod kit with all new TREs and it bolted up perfectly. Depending on your springs, you may need to use some axle shims to get the tie rods to clear the leaf springs.
     
  14. BaconOffroad

    BaconOffroad New Member

    Thanks, I just found out that my steering knuckles have possibly been reamed out for the rod ends to go from top to bottom so it is making my life a little more difficult.