T 90 Install

First time to install. Need a little advice! I am getting close to installing my tranny back in my 59 CJ5. I would like to install the tranny then install the transfer case so that it is easier to manage. Or should I join the tranny and transfer case prior to installation?
Thanks Mike

 

I'd put them together, then muscle them up either with an engine hoist through the floor pan opening, or by lifting it with a jack. I hate turning wrenches in tight spaces.

 

I have a Buick V6 and SM420 which I have had in and out several times, and I always pull the transfer case first and then the engine/ transmission as a unit as the D18 is heavy and a long way from the fulcrum of the engine hoist, so more difficult to manage with the D18 installed.

The D18 comes off with 5 bolts and one nut on the rear transmission gear, so not a big deal to pull before you pull the engine/transmission. I've pulled with and without my car lift, and both ways work well, although having the car lift is more enjoyable...

Rick

 

I've always pulled and installed them as a unit. I use a harbor freight ATV lift to wheel it in place and hoist it up. To me this seems cleaner and a better way to get a less leaky install, if you can carefully join them on a bench before wrestling them into place on the vehicle.

 

I just bought a Habor Freight ATV life from a scraper for cheap, before that I used my Cherry Picker to install as a unit.

 

My opinion, it's easier to do them separately. Trying to get the trans stabbed in the clutch with the weight of the tcase hanging off to one side is a PITA.

 

Wrap a piece of wire around the main shaft, behind the low/reverse sliding gear , put two bolts in the front bolt holes for the shifter tower, now wind the ends of the wire around the bolts. This will hold the main shaft in place during trans installation. Install transmission,then transfer case, big gear, nut,and cotter key. Remove the wire before installing shift tower.
You don’t want the man shaft to fall out of the input shaft, makes a lot of work fishing those needle bearings out of the case!

 

This.

I use a crescent wrench. Run a bolt through the hole in the handle, and with the wrench setting on the output bearing or shaft, tighten the bolt. This will keep the mainshaft from falling back out of the housing while you are lifting/spinning/jerking on it during installation. If it slides back, you run the risk of loosing the input/mainshaft pocket bearings, which will necessitate the disassembly of the transmission.

If I can, I like to R&R the trans/t case as an assembly.

Don't forget to insure your clutch disc is aligned or you will never get the transmission stabbed.

 

Many times in the past using a floor jack with a cradle, or a transmission jack, I have pulled transmission and transfer case as a unit from underneath and re-installed using same when replacing the clutch, or working on the gear boxes. A good transmission jack provides tilt adjustment, but if doing it with a floor jack you have to muscle it into level when sliding it into the bell housing.

Nowadays due to being old and arthritic I avoid as much of working underneath as possible, and usually remove the grill and radiator and pull the whole power pack (engine, transmission, and transfer case). With the grill and radiator out of the way I only lift the power pack enough to clear the crossmember and roll the Jeep back.

A spare input shaft makes a great clutch alignment tool, and a couple of long bolts with the heads cut off screwed into the bottom holes of the bell housing transmission flange are helpful in getting the transmission aligned when sliding it into the clutch.

 

Yup. Auto Mechanics 101.

 

Thank you for the input. looks like it is just a installer preference...I will be lifting with a Harbor frieght tranny jack. Hope to finish rebuilding the transmission this weekend!

 

How do you do this?

 

Your FLAPS should have, or be able to get a “clutch alignment tool”.
Just a stupid little splined piece of plastic to make our lives easier!
In my recent experience, there is a tiny bit of “slop” in aligning your clutch disc. My best results came from holding the alignment tool up as I tightened the pressure plate.
The alignment tool should come with your clutch kit.

 

Thank you.

still trying to learn all these tricks from you all.

 

As I said above a spare input shaft makes a great alignment tool, and that long input shaft T-90 you got from me needs a rebuild anyway. The long shaft is better for this purpose because it is easier to tell when it is a straight shot. The plastic tool you can get from your FLAPS will also work if you aren't ready to tear down that transmission.

 

Assemble the clutch assembly loosely on the flywheel
Insert the tool/input shaft into the disc and pilot bearing and hold it centered.
Snug a couple of pressure plate bolts to hold the disc steady.
Continue tightening the PP bolts in a cross pattern till they are all tight.
Remove the tool. It should slide out easily. If not, the disc may be off a tad and you may want to realign it.

 

Back when I used to install clutches in various vehicles I used a universal alignment tool very similar to the one in the link below. Now that I only work on my own Jeeps I just use a spare long input shaft I have. Probably still have the old universal set somewhere in my rat warren of a storage system but they are pretty inexpensive.

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...V6xmtBh1EcwCjEAQYBSABEgJEZvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Related question: I’m about to do this in reverse meaning that I have to take my transmission out long enough and far enough to change the clutch fork.

Since I’ve never done this before – I’m wondering: do I need to insert the alignment tool as soon as the input shaft comes out or will things stay where they are?

 

Not unless you are going to remove your pressure plate. Everything will stay put.