Leaf Springs Center Pin Replacement

Hi, after converting to single tie rod steering I realized my right TRE bumps into the leaf spring. I decided to install my home made spacers hoping it will clear the interference and the added bonus of (hopefully) improve the geometry of the tie rod that goes to the pitman arm. Now, my question is: how do I remove the locating pins in order to install a set that will clear the spacer and gets into the perch? I can also fabricate the pins, that is not the issue. I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks!
The spacers...

 

The centering pins are just special-headed bolts. Remove the u-bolts, lift the axle out of the way, use two C-clamps to hold the spring pack together, remove old center pin, install new pin, tighten, remove C-clamps.

Just make sure the head of the new pin doesn’t bottom out inside the perch. You’ll have an issue where the u-bolts won’t tighten the springs against the perch properly.

 

If the spacer is going between the spring pack and axel you will lower the ride height of the jeep. You may also create some minor handling issues.

 

The spacers look pretty thick.
I don't know if you can find a spring center bolt with a head that is that tall.
You may have to fabricate your own.

 

You could make the hole in the spacer smaller and include it in the spring pack.

 

They are 0.25 inch thick. I need at least 0.15 to clear the spring leaf.

 

Can you please, explain with more detail? I'm not as smart as I think...

 

How about if I use longer shackles in the front? Would that solve the clearance problem?

 

Make the width of the hole in the plate the width of the pin, not the width of the pin head. Then the plate will be clamped together with the springs with the pin head resting on the plate, not nested in it.

No. That would just rotate the assembly, not change the clearances.

 

I think Ryan is saying to drill the hole on your spacer the same size as runs through the spring leaves. Your spacer then just tightens in place becoming part of the spring pack. Then you can use a regular height head on the center pin/bolt.
-Donny

 

Now I got it. Do you think that would adversely affect how it drives (when it gets to it)? How it has been solved before? I hope I'm not the first that has this issue...

 

Your 1/4 spacer shouldn't affect how it drives...it will lower the Jeep by that amount. I like the idea of making the center hole smaller but since you already have some made you should be able to find center bolts with a taller head.

 

Words are hard for me. I’m a visual thinker.

It will not make one lick of difference other than visually lowering the front by 1/4”, if you could even tell.

 

Spring bolts in varying lengths are available. Just purchase two new bolt a 1/4" longer to accommodate the added spacer.

 

Seems like the spacers I have seen had a pin welded on them to represent the bolt head and a hole in them for the bolt head to go into, you just put the spacer in and the spring bolt goes into the spacer and the spacer pin goes into the axel. I had some cast steel spacers made like that at one time, the pin was cast right into them.

 

It is not a ball joint, it is a tie rod end (TRE).

Can you post a picture of what is going on? Are you using two hole knuckle with a separate tie rod and drag link or a Y link setup on the single hole knuckles. Either way, I would recommend doing a tie rod flip which will flatten out the drag link and reduce bump steer.

I'd use something like this: Goferit Products!

As discussed here: Tie Rod Flip Kit Advice

 

It’s a common problem when you move the crossover TRE from the center to the right side for a one-piece tie rod. When turning hard left, the bulge in the TRE hits the main leaf if the spring pack has any arch to it.

From his build thread:

 

Another thing to think of is caster on the front wheels. The reason I say this is that most early jeeps are stingy on caster angle causing them to wander a little on the road. Adding 2-3° of caster angle with shims will allow you to correct that and have the added effect of changing the clearance of your tie rod.

 

Thanks, ITLKSEZ! I had forgotten I had that pic already on my build! I was waiting to get home today to take some shots. Soooo seeing that, what would be the best approach? Tie rod flip, shim, spacer? The problem I see with the tie rod flip is that I do not like to drill and even less ream by hand on something that more or less requires precision and I do not want to disassemble the axle. I was ready to put the spacers, on which I could correct the hole diameter as suggested above to have it captured by the bolt and have all the head protruding to locate the axle perch correctly.