1965 Cj5 Body Mount Questions

Hey, Classic Enterprise Jeep parts and Md Juan Jeep philpino parts. Thanks for info Donny

 

What Donny said, after you drill you 1/4" holes to locate the spot, you could cut your pipe spacers and use a step drill to open the bottom up and slip the pipes in and tack them to keep your channels from collapsing. I used 11 gage to make my floors so I didn't need to put spacers in my hat channels. Good Luck.

 

Looking at those pics, gives me motivation. I like the welds and the way you trimmed and capped the ends tapering down.jigs for the welding.
Good use of clamps and

On the last hat channels I welded in, I painted them with Cold Galvanizing compound to prevent rust. I think I'll try the rectangular tubing, paint with the Cold Galvanizing Compound where metal meets metal and gets welded and used fluid film to coat the inside of the tubing.

Dave

 

Hey Dave, thanks man..way too many hours invested on my floors so far but can’t live with doing things 1/2 assed. That cold galvanizing stuff work good, however a bit difficult to weld over but worth it for the protection . I’m using expoy to put all the sheetmetal parts back together it rocks... perfectly sealed mating metal joints no punching of holes for spot welding and no warppage ...win win for glue.
What thickness rectangle do you think you will use? Do you also have to the replace floor sheet metal?

 

Warlock it speaks volume that you were off only a 1/16 , I would assume it’s not your first rodeo. I Wanted to give much thanks for putting up suck detailed build pics, they really helped as a blue print to fab up much of my tub. Thanks man

 

That is better than new the frame book had +or- 1/2 inch for a spec that’s huge In body terms.

 

Yeah, I was going to say there's no way they were within 1/16" from the factory.

 

This is a great idea. I have used the 2 part epoxy and I have the gun and the Fusor adhesive.
I do enjoy welding though.
The replacement panels I formed are out of 18 ga. cold rolled.
With the rectangular tubing, I think I can go at least 16 ga. not sure.



18ga. cold rolled worked well for rebuilding the tranny cover and patch panels.

Still thinking.

Need to get back on this stuff,


Dave

 

When attaching my tub to the frame, I used a stainless steel Fastner. I used a carriage type bolt that had a place to put a Allen wrench in the head to tighten it

Eastwood makes/sells a inside frame coating that is in a spray can. You get a long straw/hose up put on the can to spray up inside the space

 

looks good Dave. How’d you get that nice looking factory round conner on bottom of patch panel, using a buck? The green patina awesome. I didn’t really want cut into the side of my tub and ruin the 50yr old patina , but there was no metal left behind or on the factory cowl supports... typical I would think.

 

Yes, I used a buck I made. out of plywood and clamped the piece between.
Worked well. Got to get all the pics off my old computer that went south this spring and summer and add them to my album.

Dave

 

I'm getting ready to place an order with them and wanted to double check that I need the "Square Tube" version for my '66 V6. As you can see on the bottom of my floor I'm not sure what is OEM and what was added by a PO (or what's missing):


Hoping maybe @Warloch or @Keys5a can chime in - which of these supports are OEM - the one's with the wood inside, or the Square tubes aft of that?

 

There is a good example of a (mostly) original floor in Dne's build thread: Yep, Bought A '68 Cj5(project)

You can get well made original style braces and floorboards from Classic Enterprises: 1955 - 1975 Jeep CJ6 | Willys M170