Cary's 1966 Tux Driver And Preservation...

Good find, good price. Very workable have fun fix'n her up. I sure you know rubber and stuff is easy to get. Looks like that rear view mirror is not broken, some good stuff on that jeep.

 

The Saggy conversion looks similar to what I did to mine, but I boxed the frame and didn't use pipe. Nice looking Jeep. But it may need a replacement bottle opener... Just sayin'...

 

I think your body is welded to the frame.

 

Congrats again Fred on getting the ‘66 Tux.

The glass rubber seal, if it’s sound and pliable (not dried out) glass shop can re use it
The windshield frame to hood rubber seal, I bought mine off eBay, but Walck’s has them.
For the “Jeep Lean” check all the body mounts, and the shackles for binding or damage (you mention one is bent) also getting the springs addressed.
Because the Jeep drives straight, I believe your frame is not damaged.
Can’t help you with the chrome Tux opener

 

Concrats....Capn,
Your right rear shackle & spring has been replaced , from the looks of it. Going forward , Walcks & Kaiser-Willy's are gonna be your go to parts folks.
( IMHO )
The latter is very extensive & quick on one's order . GodSpeed on your new ' Kid ', I for one am glad that you've got the '66 that you were look'n for .

Richie---------Lockman

 

I've had good luck with the quality of the windshield glass gasket and the frame to cowl gasket from Matt at Quarter Ton Military in north Georgia. His price is very reasonable. As far as your steering box setup, it looks pretty well done. Yes, a stiff front bumper sure helps to brace side-to-side movement of the frame horns. Better yet is a diagonal brace from just above the pittman arm over to the passenger frame horn near the front crossmember. The only thing I would check are those U-joint setscrews onto the Saginaw input shaft. I much prefer OEM splines with a pinch bolt.
That rear frame crossmember overlay has me scraching my head. Maybe just a reinforcement for the (non-drawbar) hitch? You may want to remove that outer plate, and find a stock drawbar. The welded body mounts are questionable too. There should be body mounts back behind where the welded brackets are. You may need to replace the L brackets back there that were original.
Get your Tux on a flat level floor/driveway? and start measuring from the ground to the frame, body, and whereever else things look "out". The tape will tell you a lot. Even check the tire pressures are the same, side to side! Springs and body mounts are the usual culprets. That torn footwell may be part of your lean.
Whats the big knob above/left of the speedometer?
That still looks like a nice drivable project.
-Donny

 

A high right rear corner can also make it appear that the left front has a sag...

 

So awesome to see you with this. I will be following along on this build for sure!

 

Yes. There is a little difference in holes to offset the Transmission and not twist the driveline at the torque mount but you can make them work.

Hammer drill and welder will fix everything up nice.

 

The 4 cyl has the torque mount on the crossmember but the v6 has it on the frame rail.

 

Looks like you offset the Transmission mounting holes to move the centerline .75" to center I wouldn't mess with filling the t90 holes it's more work than it's worth.
Then make a bracket for the torque mount.
Stay cable... that's up for debate.

Here's a good thread.

1966 Cj5 Transmission Mount

 

I used a 66 V6 frame to do my Jeep, which was a 1964 F 134. I was able to weld the F 134 battery box, and motor mounts to the V 6 frame, and then use the F 134 cross member , it bolted right in the V 6 frame as it was already drilled for both the V 6 and the F134 cross member. Good Luck