Bigdaddy's Socal 1964 Tuxedo Park Resto-mod.

Regarding the hatch over the fuel sender, I suspect it's not legal by modern safety standards. Aside from the design issues with the under-seat tank, the factory was compelled to move the under-seat tank to the back because the NHTSA rules prohibited fuel tanks in the passenger cabin at some point ca 1970. Wagoneers (and GWs) after 1980ish came from the factory with a hatch in the floor that is directly above the fuel sender. However, this hatch is riveted with some kind of gasket from the factory, which I'd guess gets around the prohibition. Of course, you can drill out the rivets and get to the sender.

 

I guess I’m hearing what you’re saying but not sure I understand why it’d be an issue?

they sell rear cargo area hatches specifically for more modern vehicles like LJ/TJ’s?

Also, it’s not like my rear cargo area is solid, there are many factory/bubba’d holes? (I can’t imagine the hatch makes a difference as far as vapors go with a vehicle without doors.)

like to hear more, tho.

 

What would be the reasoning? All my European cars have a fuel pump/sender access panel that is held in place with screws.

 

The final install has a gasket, btw.

 

I worked on a GM car that had a fuel tank access hole under the rear seat from the factory. A few cars even had the battery mounted under the rear seats.

 

I suspect it's not legal to have a door, though it's ok to have a panel that's "permanent."

It's nothing to me ... and the Jeep is old enough that any regs would not apply. The original tank is wide open to the passenger compartment. Just thought it was interesting.

 

I’d really have to piss off a cop to get cited for this, lol, but sounds like if it rivet i’d be good-to-go, then?

definitely gives me a reason to get a pop rivet gun.

 

Where did you get it? I want to do the same thing! Looks amazing!

 

Thanks! Summit, i think.

 

Just a thought on the color palette:
. Is there a quality gloss olive drab? Or maybe a semi-gloss that i can clear coat?

 

well, the gloss olive drab didn't pass the sniff test, so I actually ended up with a new color from rustoleum called "gloss slate grey", I think. It's pretty awesome. Depending on the light it's medium grey, dark grey, and a very cool "steel blue" color.

 

That is a Good looking Jeep!

 

Well, thanks all for the troubleshooting help in my electrical thread.

Through sheer luck (or a few light hammer taps on the right components) the run-on situation has resolved itself (knock on wood). I have a spare starter solenoid sitting in my shop just in case that ends up being the issue, though. I hate not having a clear reason for the issue, but whaddaya-gonna-do....

In any case, I'm also fairly certain i'm going with a painless wiring harness. The two i see that I like are:

• 10102 - hot rod/street rod universal .
• 10105 - Early CJ specific.

I've read through both manuals and seeing how 10102 is the cheaper of the two, it's the one I'm gravitating towards since this jeep is VERY not original and probably won't ever be, so I don't mind having non-terminated wires and some of the things the kit includes that I know i wouldn't need/use.

I'd just have to add a few things (relay kit, Midi fuse kit) to get what I want. More than the EZ, less than the CJ-specific Painless 10105, but still with the great step-by-step instructions to follow.

Pics from yesterday's test run to see if all systems were back up and running.

 

haha! I have 3 daughters. They can’t NOT bedazzle my jeep with stickers, stuffed animals and handmade “pom-poms”. I’m sure you’d find a “spare” hairbrush, scrunchie, and numerous hair ties if we panned the camera around a bit.

 

I’ve definitely considered it. Instructions are non-existent with those kits, right?

 

have a part number?

Oh, I see. pretty simple. They just offer a 12 and a 21 circuit?

https://www.ezwiring.com/shop?Collection=Wiring+Kits+&+Switches