232 Engine Question // 1973

Got the compression test done and it turns out that it is dying a slow death but has got some life left in it. He said the gas mix is a little rich (carb rebuild probably a good solution) and the engine might need a rebuild at some point but not anything immediate. Burning about a quart per month....The $94 diagnostic was worth it just to know the engine does not need an immediate rebuild....Thanks again for the input...Now I gotta find an old guy in a machine shop I can trust at some point...

 

If your capable on the R and R and also putting all the rebuilt pieces back together then Yes .............find a good machinist and take him the parts when your ready...........most worn out motors will require dipping in a hot tank for cleaning , boring and replacing pistons & rings, resizing rods, more than likely turning the crank down , bearing set , gasket & seal set , maybe a camshaft and lifters , new cam bearings , refacing valves and replacing valve springs checking all the rocker arms , including head and block sealing surfaces replace timing gear & chain.......and oil pump , you might even consider hardened seats on the exhaust side.

Or look around for a person that can turn key it for you and just drop it off and write a check.............

You might even look around for a nationwide or local rebuilder that sells the rebuilt long block on a exchange basis w/ warranty taking your core back in trade.....on these rebuilders you want to get some referrals and feedback also read the fine print to fully understand what parts they are replacing or reusing...........

 

I'm a skeptic Terry. Over the decades, I've had a couple of those commercial "rebuilt" engines. Neither one made it to 50k miles. Most of those are assembled with the cheapest parts available in the quickest possible time. Not a good combination. I would find the competent machine shop and then go over every single part he/she? needs for it. Most of the local guys I know will order the parts and even give you a decent discount. But maybe that's just who you know.

 

I hear you John, I have never personally bought a rebuild , although I have bought plenty of GM crate motors..........but I have had friends that have and had good luck with some........no recommendations on my part.......although there is a few of those guys that have seemed to been time tested over many decades...........but I like to do them myself , takes longer and more costly but you know what you have when finished.........and regarding parts , that's a wild card anymore as these old standby parts manufactures have either gone out of business or just repackage someone else's stuff and that in itself is sometimes determined by the shop and who there own favorite wholesale supplier is..............just trying to give Mr. Robbins some options..

 

I think, when the time comes, I'm just gonna goto the bank on this and buy a new engine altogether. Any thoughts on what best to replace the original 232/inline 6?

 

Depends on how much you want to do. A 258 is identical externally to a 232, and drops in. You could build a 258 from your 232 using a 258 crank and rods, with new pistons. Only the stroke is different. '81 and later 258s were updated and lightened with an improved block, fewer crank counterweights, lighter manifolds, 2V carburetor, and a plastic valve cover. You can mix and match from both generations of 258, but I'd avoid the plastic valve cover.

A 232 has basically zero aftermarket demand except as a replacement engine. They were used for quite a few years in postal Jeeps, and you may be able to find a good one if you look around.

A core 232 only has scrap value, so if I kept the 232 I'd look around for an engine to rebuild. Then I would rebuild it at my leisure and swap it for the existing engine when I was ready. I would build it myself; building engines is fun.

You have the 3-speed transmission? It's a T-14 and isn't up to a lot more powerful engine. The AMC 4.0L used in the Cherokee and Wrangler is an easy swap, and would give you a lot more power on the highway. Popular swap.

 

OK. Looks like he 258 swap out is the play. Thanks again.

 

OK. My 232 died again in middle of road. Cranks fine just won't start. I towed it to my machine shop guy to replace carb. I hope this is the fix. Any ideas? Full of gas and fuel pump is fine. As I noted before, the compression test checked out fine (old engine but ok for age).

 

Spark? Bad ignition switch or a wire.

 

Pretty sure its not an ignition problem. The "blow by" (diagnosed earlier in this thread) has been fouling the plugs out. I am going to have him look at the plugs. But I am hoping its the carb. Rather not replace engine just yet..

 

Yep, fuel or spark. A '73 232 is points ignition, with a Delco distributor as I recall. Coil? Ignition switch? Points and condensor?

Points ignition is easy to test. Key on and close-open points manually (use a well insulated object) will make a spark at the coil wire. Hot wire the Jeep to see if it's open between the battery and the coil. Swap in another random coil to test the coil. Swap in the points and condensor that you saved from your last tuneup, then set the gap and static time - should run enough to set the dwell and timing. You need to understand the ignition system well enough that you can think of simple diagnostic tests that isolate one part of the systems in question and try them. Divide and conquer.

If you have a mechanic looking at this engine, why don't you have him diagnose the problem? Fouled plugs would not make the engine just stop. Without the Jeep in front of us, we can only guess, or tell you what the mechanic should already know ...

Has it ever been tuned up? Any new-old car that I bought would get a total maintenance reset if I did not know the full maintenance history. Full ignition tuneup - plugs, points, condensor, cap, rotor, ignition wires (important and often neglected). All fluids changed - engine oil, transmission and transfer case, axles, coolant (flush and fill), brake fluid (flush and fill). Visual brake inspection. All new belts and hoses. Tire inspection. All lights inspected and working.

Carburetor rebuild is routine for a new-old car; either get a kit and do it yourself, or buy a remanufactured replacement and install it or have it installed. However, the car should run as long as it has gas. Easy to check visually.

Without knowing the maintenance history, this is the minimum you need to do to get the car back to a known starting point. From then on you need to track scheduled maintenance and keep records.

 

It has been tuned up in the last 2 years and the solenoid/points and starter all good.

 

Solenoid? There's a starter solenoid. Assuming it cranks ok but does not start and run.

 

correct. Starter Sol was replaced. New wires..ground to starter cable/connectors/alternator wiring et all has been replaced

 

New points, coil, condensor, cap rotor....

 

If it has spark it should start and run (for a few seconds) with a little gas or starter fluid down the carburetor. Easy test.

Did not replace the plugs or ignition wires? Fouled plugs respond well to cleaning with a little solvent and a stiff brush. Old, faulty ignition wires usually look and test fine.

I'd replace the coil. A spare coil is a good thing to carry along, if that's not the problem. BTDT. Sorry to be critical, but it seems a little strange that you are asking for advice that you plan to pass on to your mechanic. These are all basic issues that any competent mechanic should understand well.

 

If you're not dumping gobs of gas out the tailpipe, I'd be surprised if it was a carb issue and not spark.

 

timgr,

Finally got the diagnosis on the 232 cranking but not running...It was the points after all!!!
Thanks again for all the help guys! Saved me a new carb and potentially new rebuild! Now I gotta go get it in 20 deg windchill temps...no top.....

 

If you reach a point where you”re considering an engine overhaul, I highly recommend Andy at D&A machine in Canton GA. He rebuilt my 232 a couple years ago and even ran a dyno for me - 120hp with stock carter and manifolds (check my old posts for dyno sheet). Ricks automotive in Canton is also a good resource for general work on older amc jeeps. Rick is semi retired but was a jeep dealership mechanic back in the 70’s and knows them well. Has a well equipped garage behind his house and works at his own pace so don”t be in a hurry.

 

Thanks Scott. Much appreciated. Another forum guy here referred me to my guy.."Duncan Auto" here in Atlanta. Same situation. Old guy. Honest guy. Has a small garage and his own pace..But if it comes to a rebuild and he can't do it I'll definitely try D&A..