Can't Get My Tapered Axles Out, What Am I Doing Wrong?

Dut

No different putting full float on a flanged axle housing then a tapered housing. Dutchman can make any axle. This has all been done thousands of times. A quick search should bring up a dozen threads. Sometimes you just need to realize your mechanical abilities and pay someone to do it for you too.

 

The main thing to notice about the full-floater is how spindles bolt to the axle housing ends. As Brad says, it's just like the front axle, and even uses the same spindles IIRC.

I'm not sure you can have the flanged axles cut to work as full-floater axles. The splined area is larger in diameter than the rest of the axle shaft. IIRC the new full-floater shafts are made new (from purpose made forgings?), and machined with splines at both ends.

If you don't like the wide-track front, you could look for another Dana 30 in narrow track. Then you could convert your narrow track tapered rear axle to full-floater if you want, and install the Powerlock. I'd think you could do that for significantly less than all the work needed to make the wide 44 work for you.

 

While changing a Jeep clutch many years ago (with the wrong tools and no experience) I learned a precious life-lesson from "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance."

It was talking about "How To" instructions, and roughly translated it was "To fix Jeep requires great peace of mind."

I.e. not just wrenches and cuss-words, but the clarity to maintain patience and apply logic, by focusing on what is the most important step for problem-solving at each individual stage, and giving that step its full importance - rather than seeing it merely as an obstacle to the primary goal.

Right now that tapered axle is as valuable as your entire Jeep, since it prevents your use of the Jeep. So giving it the amount of respect it deserves can guide you to the outcome that you deserve.

Tapered axles were certainly one of the opportunities I've had to practice that!

That book truly changed my life for the better.

 

Point taken - but I want to learn and experience is the best teacher. I'll get there, I'm capable, just need your guys knowledge occasionally, or a lot. No other way to know how to fix stuff on the trail if you can't fix it in the garage.

 

That's a good suggestion and funny you mention that, I have two narrow track D30's sitting here, my plan was to use the hubs and whatever else I could for the rear.



I'm picky about this, I think the narrow track is too narrow and the wide is too wide. Here's my current setup with the wide track.



I rebuilt this entire D30 axle with a locker, regeared it, all new bearings, seals etc. works great no issues. But after I got it in was when I started to not like the width, to me it just looks a little wide for my liking. I want the turning radius offered by something wider than the narrow track and I like the space it provides for shocks. I will try and find wheels for the front with a bit more backspacing to bring them in a bit. I'm willing to do the work to end up with a rear axle about 2" wider per side than the narrow track. That's why I bought the wide D44 for $25. I will attempt to cut it down, learn all about the full float and axle options and do it all while I use my current narrow track D44. Who knows I may screw it up and do a lousy job the first time, but you have to start somewhere and a $25 axle seemed like the place to start.

Anyway that's all getting ahead of my current issue .

 

It's off, I heated it and rubber malleted (just made that word up) it.

I pulled all the backing plate bolts out



But the axle won't budge. Guess I'll wait for my tool to get here tomorrow and hope it doesn't break.

 

I just love pictures of things. Thanks for the link . Now I understand better.

 

Well I consider myself an expert now. Took a while to read it all though, great thread.

build your own full float dana 44?

 

They make another special tool to pull axles. Its a big slide-hammer that bolts to the lugs on the hub. I've always managed to get the bearing and axle out without resorting to the slide hammer.
-Donny

 

I hate to be a critic of your incredible artistry but the bearings are reversed in the full floater drawing. Just sayin’

 

Going back to the puller, I learned a long time ago how to use a puller. The guy that owned the gas station showed my to put a good load on it and hit the bolt with a BFH, then tighten it again and hit the bolt again, it should pop off without flying across the garage. When you put a good strain on it and whack the jar should make it pop off. Good Luck.

 

Sorry to nitpick, but I believe tapered is backwards too. And flanged uses a plain roller bearing, no taper.