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134f Tune Up Issues

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 60CJ5, Jun 5, 2018.

  1. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    If he doesn't have a leak it would be a reasonably valid test point. That's why I suggested trying it there....now we know a massive leak is confirmed. :)
     
  2. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    Have to figure out how to do that with the hard lines. guess I need to head back to parts store to get some lines to hook into.
     
  3. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    On the side of the manifold below the carb...does it have a flare fitting there with a line/flare fitting screwed into it?
     
  4. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    yes.
     
  5. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Just disconnect that fitting and hook your gauge there instead (with whatever fittings needed of course).
     
  6. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    may be a dumb question but..... when I disconnect at the intake manifold do I just hook the gauge up directly to that port or do I "T" it inline. it seems to me that the direct would tell me how much vacuum the engine is making where the T would tell if there is a leak in the lines
     
  7. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    This is an issue that needs to be corrected. Your centrifugal advance is not working properly if the rotor doesn't return to its original position. There are two flyweights, with a spring attached to each. The springs are what stabilize the advance mechanism as rpm's increase, as the spark advances. Without the springs working properly, your timing with bounce all over the place, causing poor running conditions.
    Sort this out before you start messing with other parts.
    -Donny
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
    baldjosh likes this.
  8. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Directly to the manifold.....that will tell you what vacuum the engine has. You already determined you had a leak ....apparently.
     
  9. baldjosh

    baldjosh Member

    totally agree with Donny...your base for adjustment/testing is off if the advance mechanism is wonky
     
  10. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Absolutely!
     
  11. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    have the parts on order.... + new pre-bent fuel and vacuum lines....
     
    Glenn likes this.
  12. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    OK, this thing is pissing me off. :banghead: put in the new distributor and got it "running" but was having issues setting the timing as it would not rotate enough to go past TDC. kept playing with it and now it will not start. I put the timing light on it again and the spark at the plug is VERY intermittent. if I move the timing light connection to the distributor cap the spark is normal. I checked it on several plugs and at several posts on the distributor with the same results. even put the original distributor back in with the same results. also put in a new coil just to see if that would help....

    I have not changed the wires but it was running before I started the "tune up" Cant see all the wires failing at once...…

    if I keep cranking it and pump the gas a little it will backfire after a bit. I know the timing is not perfect but it should be close.

    Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm really getting sick of working on it as it seems that everything has decided to fail at once...….

    I also replaced all the vacuum and fuel lines just because it seemed like the right thing to do.

    I think the damn thing is just dying on me. the horn quit working also!!!!! may have to punt an buy myself a JL Rubi :steamed:
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2018
  13. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    When you had it "running" was it missing or backfiring? I've been through the exact same thing and it can be extremely frustrating. Is your new distributor electronic or points? It might be that you have to reverse the position of the little plate on the bottom of the distributor in order to get it in a position where you have enough room to rotate the distributor.
     
  14. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Firing order correct? Plug wires maybe mixed up at the distributor cap?
     
  15. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    just had a lot of jumping around of the firing when trying to set the timing so I could never get it smooth. Original is a under cap pertronics (sp) unit. the new one is the electronic distributor from KaiserWillys.
     
  16. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    What do you mean by jumping around of the firing? Backfiring?
     
  17. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    checked it maybe 10 times..... even if it was out of order, I would expect to get a rhythmic flash of the timing light which I am not. Pretty sure it is making 4-5 full turns between flashes and seems to get more spread out the longer I keep spinning it. If I connect at the cap
    (on any post)
    , it is rhythmic.

    Almost like it is not enough power to make it through the sparkplug wires..... that is why I replaced the coil.

    Guess I can check the voltage going into the coil when I hit start but I was "fine" before I started this minor (I thought) tune up,
     
  18. 60CJ5

    60CJ5 Member

    when setting the timing, the light was not flashing at a consistent spot. anywhere from TDC to about a 1/2" (estimate 6 to 10 degrees) off of TDC. the engine was running at a consistent idle. I was trying to set it at 6 BTDC which is impossible when it is jumping all over the place.

    No backfire when I started this process....
     
  19. pfmg

    pfmg Member

    Did you ever look at my thread? I am still having fhead tuning issues, low vacuum, running rich and timing mark was jumping. what fixed the jumping was wiring the petronix correctly, i had the wrong plug wires and i had the resistor still wired in. Fixed those issues and the timing mark is dead on
     
  20. pfmg

    pfmg Member

    I also had a time last week, after i was messing with everything, took it for a ride and it was pretty good, shut it down, and went to move it a few hours later and it would not start. I check every thing still no luck, in the morning i put in new plugs and it fired right up. The plugs were very fouled. I’m going to update my thread, I’m convinced my problem is I’m running too rich, don’t know if it’s the carb, or ignition is not burning all the fuel