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Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick Disc Brake Solution For Early CJ5's

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    Having experienced total brake failure on two different vehicles with a single bowl master cylinder, I would change that long before I went to disc brakes.
     
  2. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Zero point in going to discs with a single pot master.
     
  3. jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I know nothing about brakes. If you have a reservoir set up, is it in addition to the frame mounted stock master cylinder?
    If i went this route, would i need to convert to a swinging pedal assembly and a firewall mc?
     
  4. Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    I have remote reservoirs on my frame mount master cylinder. The master cylinder is a Wildwood, was a kit from R&P, don't know if you can still get it.
     
  5. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Yes

    No
     
  6. 71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    Just emailed him for a set of brackets - will report back. Looks like the tracker brake parts are crazy cheap. The chevy brake conversions all look much pricier. Now the only question is, where do I get the valve I need to put on the master for the front brakes? The rear will remain stock so I would assume I don't take anything out of that port but I can remove the current front port valve - but still need something to make it appropriate for the disks.
     
  7. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Search for: Wilwood 2lb residual pressure valve w/fittings - Part #: 260-3278
     
    71CJ54WD likes this.
  8. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

  9. aekdbbop

    aekdbbop Member

    I am just buttoning up this conversion on my own setup. Switched my 11" front drums to the rear, and put the discs on the front. Was super easy. The hardest part was really drilling out the rotors.. took forever. I am using a MC from an 80s something ford fairmont that had discs/drums originally.
     
  10. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Best to get a master that is setup for Disc's and drums as it will have the correct Residual valves in place without adding external valves............or some sell a proportioning valve that does the same thing..

    In either case............if you already have a master that you want to use and that is mounted below the level of your calipers or wheel cylinders then both circuits still need residual valves..............You really need to know & understand what parts your using...........it's pretty simple until folks go to a junk yard and buy stuff without a history of it's use............personally when it comes to brakes I would source new parts only that are matched to the calipers sizes and or drum wheel cylinders sizes being used............also in a Jeep a good adjustable proportioning valve works wonders to custom tailor your driving / braking needs between the front and rear............
     
    OrangeCJ5 likes this.
  11. mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

  12. 71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    Heres the driver side of mine done with Tracker brakes. Still need to plumb in a soft line and install the residual valve (keeping drum in the rear for now). The 39/64 bit opens up the actual rotor stud holes enough but the back of the rotor will still hit the splines coming through the hub. My solution was to chamfer the back side of the rotor every so little at a time until the fit was snug. It sits perfectly tight against the hub now. The brakes seem silly small compared to 80's CJ disks but we are dealing with pretty tiny Jeeps on this message board - will report back on power.

    [​IMG]
     
    jeepstar, OldAdobe and Bowbender like this.
  13. 71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    I should add that my current master is the stock drum/drum unit. I don't see a good reason to even try using it since its probably split 50/50 proportioning and I need something more like 90/10 with my disc/drum. I see the 76 Bronco master has been used in the past on our jeeps. All I can find are power brake units. We need something for manual brakes. Any suggestions for manual brake disk/drum that will work with our master cylinder mount?
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2018
  14. 47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    If your current master is functional, why not just use it and see how it works. I had lots of trial and error.
     
  15. 71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    I could plumb it in and give it a go but I’ve had poor results from a drum drum master feeding disk drum in the past. Although now I am thinking a proportioning valve could remedy this as well.
     
  16. tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Disc Brake Calipers take allot more fluid volume to actuate the pistons vs drum wheel cylinders.............most Master cylinders that service Disc / Drums have a much larger reservoir for the disc side.......If your's is still under the floor , seek out the correct replacement kit , that is sized to the parts your using..........and adjustable Proportioning valve allows for some tuning to your style of driving.
     
    71CJ54WD likes this.
  17. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    That's what I used. I didn't know it until after I installed it. Works just fine for me, I'm not sure what the difference is? :shrug:
     
  18. Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    My factory 71 master cylinder has been running front disks for years with no problems. The 71 MC has 2 different well size’s and has a stepped piston, It should work fine.
     
    71CJ54WD likes this.
  19. 71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Sponsor

    Well this settles it!
     
  20. Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Most using these kits are having great success with original master cylinders. Some have claimed that the original single pot worked fine with 4 wheel discs. (Not something even worth plumbing in by my thinking)These calipers seem to use much less fluid then the oem Chevy and Ford calipers that we have been using for the past 40 years.