Ted's Steering Upgrade, With A Twist

Nate, are you saying that your steering box is reaching its limit before the knuckles reach theirs when turning left?

 

Great idea Nate. Cant wait to see it in person

 

That is part of the issue, but it is more the ratio is off. The wandering and darting is a direct result of that. Never had an issue before.

 

Sounds like 2 different issues to me. The ratio difference is only an issue if the knuckle range of travel is greater the the pitman arm range of travel. If you can turn full lock right but not full lock left then the drag link may be too long; or, in other words, your wheel may not be centered with steering box.
Shorten the drag link until you get equal results left and right and if knuckles don't hit stops then ratio is the problem.
It could also e possible that the cylinder is bottoming ( or topping) out before the knuckles reach full lock left.
As for darting, try driving with PS disabled (belt and cylinder removed) to see how it feels. Valve could be too sensitive (possibly remedied with stiffer springs?) or cylinder could be oversized. Another option may be to somehow reduce the pumps operating pressure, if that's even possible...larger pulley or lighter spring on the pressure relief maybe.
Just some thoughts. Keep us posted on what you find.

 

One more possible cause for darting, especially if the control valve is too sensitive, would be bump steer. While your drag link angle is not bad it may be enough to engage the valve when hitting a bump and steer the wheels to the right.

 

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Y link steering setup solved most of the steering issues. There is still one issue, but I think it is in the valve itself. There seems to be a delayed response for the hydraulics to kick in and it still moves after I stop turning the wheel. Might have to adjust it like you guys were saying.

 

I would say so. I still have to make some final adjustments to the linkages too. Only time will tell how well it works.

 

That sounds like an air pocket is stuck somewhere.

 

I was thinking that too. Tomorrow I'll pull the cylinder out and put the ports up to get the air out. That's my guess. I was just reading up the adjustment procedure for the valve. It doesn't seem to difficult to adjust.

 

Took Ted out on some trails and I'm totally sold on this. Granted it is snowy, but it steers much easier than the '46 2A I just got. I also don't even notice if the locker is engaged in the front or not.

 

I did, but I took the cylinder out and held it so the ports were facing up. I pushed it in and I could hear the air moving. I pulled it out and it was the same thing. So I started the jeep up and did the same thing until I could no longer hear the air. I think it was just trapped in the cylinder.

 

I used a 6" stroke, 1.5" diameter cylinder from summit racing. It was a kit from trail gear that is meant for toyota's with a solid front axle. I liked it because it had #6 JIC fittings on it.

 

Its actually a little long. I think there is about a 1/2" left of travel on either side. I figured that everyone who puts hydro assist on their rig uses a 1.5" diameter cylinder, there must be a reason. It works, and I am happy with it. If someone else does this, maybe they will find a more adequate cylinder.