69 Cj5 Heater System

Hi,

my CJ5 from 1966 has this heater/defroster. Unfortunately most of the connections were ripped off. I want to restore it to the original. Can someone give me an answer on the red questions below in the image?

Where are the different tubes go to?
Are the tubes on the control panel made out of rubber?



Thanks in advance

Werner

 

The rubber line.............marked in RED is the other 1/2 of the system like #12 that comes out of the heater core and goes to either your water pump or manifold to make a complete circuit...........

#23 & #24 are vacuum pods and rubber vacuum lines that are actuated to open / close the heater and defroster venting.........

 

Working left to right, and using numbers as reference points...

#24 - Yes, rubber vacuum lines.
#14 - Heater core line goes to port on passenger side rear of intake manifold.
#16 - Vacuum supply line, goes to a source of vacuum on intake manifold.
#9 - Heater core line goes to water pump.

 

Thanks to the both of you...very usefull information.

I dismounted the dashboard yesterday and hey...what are these tubes doing here? So I just found 2 of the 3 tubes going to the control panel.
Also I now know how things are working so it must be not that difficult so rebuild it.

Unfortunately I found out that the right vacuum pod is missing...someone has this one in his scrapbox maybe?

 

Done

 

Hi guys. I too am restoring this style of heater system on the ‘66. That diagram of the entire system and where all the vac tubes go is fantastic. I’m missing the heater fan switch plastic piece as seems all too common and am working on 3D printing one to see if that works well. More immediately a problem is the fan switch ‘had’ 3 terminals off the back but the 12V+ power input terminal spade has long since been broken off. Anyone know where a like unit can be had? Been searching the web for hours spread over several days. The two remaining output spades are the low and high speed wires. Trying to maintain the original appearance.

 

You're in Colo Springs? My Jeep has a (mostly) stock functioning heater if you'd like to take a look sometime.

 

Right on. Good to meet other local Jeepers!

The 71 had the same as the current 66 project so I do have a reference for what it should look like. Really hoping to source a replacement one. Found a very similar “Off-On-On” version by Jandorf #61033 for household current but it’s only 1A rated. I’d guess the fan pulls more than that. May have to stick ‘er on the meter to verify.
-Hônes

 

Welcome from Michigan, The people here are Great, and very helpful, Good Luck.

 

Can someone tell me (take a picture) how the bowden wire in the parts image above, post #21 (item 27) attaches to the control assembly (item 25)? Is there a clip or something that attaches it to the slide control?

Also, where is the fan power suppose to connect to originally? I know the power wires from the fan connect to the control, but here does the control get power and where is the ground wire from the fan suppose to attach? My FSM doesn't say anything about the heater.

 

Is it not like a normal switch? One terminal is power, the other two are speeds. The switch gets ground from the dash and the motor grounds on the blower housing.

 

Actually the switch does not use a ground. It only passes 12VDC to the blower motor.

 

Correct.

Based on the diagram in this thread that I mentioned, there is also a fuse holder (item #26). I assume that is in line between the switch and the power source. Is that correct? Anyone know the correct fuse size?

There are several places to get power from in the dash, I want to know where it would have been connected originally.

 

I don't know what the FSM says, but I put a 15A in mine, because of the surge when the blower starts, have never blown it. I used a factory 1966 wire harness in my rebuild because it was virgin, never messed with. It is a PITA, because you have to find the inline fuse when something happens, but I didn't want to make a whole new harness. Anything I added, radio, wipers, and siren , I put marine inline fuse holders. Good Luck

 

Anyone shoot a picture and get me some info?

 

My control cable comes out towards the front rather than the side (per the diagram in #21) but here’s what it looks like on the underside. The wire is just wrapped around the post. Also shown is my broken fan switch which I’m trying to find a replacement for if anyone knows a modern retrofit that works well.
My in-line fuse to the heater fan switch is a 20A but I don’t claim that as being factory necessarily.

 

Heres hoping someone comes up with a switch number for these heaters.Would be great to have a replacement.I have thought that if I find a switch I will use it to trigger a relay to fan motor to save the switch. mike

 

If all you need is a rotary switch, this might work: A11514RNZQ C&K | Switches | DigiKey


Normally the threaded base comes through the panel and is hidden by a recess in the knob. You could do that, or mount it on the part behind the panel and just have the shaft come through. The shaft is probably too large for the original knob, but there are hundreds of knob types that could be used in place of the original.

NB this is only rated for 350mA DC, so you'd need a relay to do the heater motor switching. Motors typically draw a heavy load at start-up, and can have a big inductive kick (arcing!) at shut-down - likely too much for this puny switch.

 

fan switch has 12V in and two 12V out . when one wire is powered it runs on low . when both wires are powered it runs on high
now for that unobtainable switch # 962327 . good luck finding one

 

Straightforward to do that with the above switch. Off, low and high. You'd need to power the low relay from both the switch and the high relay. Thus, low relay would be powered on low and both relays powered on high. The relays both handle the motor load and duplicate the performance of the original switch, with some easy additional wiring.