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Crown Replacement Steering Wheel With Pics And Questions

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by PGHCJ5, Aug 3, 2016.

  1. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Could you take a little off of the yoke and gotten them in?
     
  2. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    With a little modification that way I think it could be possible, yes. The clip was so close to fitting correctly it may not have taken much.
     
  3. Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

    Mine is about half a clip thickness too close. Considered a spot weld on each cup. Seems a fine solution, and by the time it wears out again I plan to be too old to fix Jeeps anymore.
     
  4. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    Agreed. When the unit wears out again, I most likely won't be the one to have to worry about it.
     
  5. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    This is a great write-up but I think it needs closure: :confused:

    1. Were you able to receive communications with Crown regarding the lack of the inner groove?
    2. How is your new wheel performing (about 1 year later since this thread was created)?
    3. Are peoples' horn buttons still sticking?

    I'm looking towards a new wheel. I'd keep the original cracked, weathered and faded one but some previous owner shaved down flush the recess that holds the horn button. Looks like they did it with a dull jackknife (thanks Bubba). I need a horn and desire a horn so there's your answer.

    4. For aesthetic concerns, which way are the spokes on the wheel supposed to be oriented, with front wheels centered, pointing straight ahead?
    A. 'Y' with the two upper spokes at 10 & 2 o'clock roughly, or inverted with the bottom stalk pointing at 12 o'clock (like this ) ??
     
  6. Dave B

    Dave B Frankenjeep '67

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

    Even the Tonka steering wheels are "Y"
     
    Hellion likes this.
  8. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    She's a beaut! (y)
     
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  9. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    Unfortunately, I was never able to discuss the wheel with Crown. But it has been functioning fine and my horn does work. I left the button so that, if it sticks, I can remove it quickly if needed. It hasn't stuck on yet. I installed the wheel in a 'Y' position with the two upper spokes at the 10 & 2.
     
    Hellion likes this.
  10. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    I've got my new Crown wheel in hand along with a new Rugged Ridge/Omix Horn Button Kit and it appears, with just a trial fit (wheel not installed on Jeep), that the horn button will stick with one push and remain engaged until it is pried out.

    The brass disc that is captured inside the rubber button also pops from convex to concave when you push it, but it does not spring back on its own.

    How is the stock OEM horn button supposed to work? Is the brass disc supposed to click back and forth? Doesn't it need a heavy return spring in there or something?

    Is the groove inside the button receptacle absolutely essential? :confused:
     
  11. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Yeah... Like a Snapple lid (after it's been opened).
    Yes there is a spring.
     
  12. OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

  13. Davew

    Davew New Member

    Me too, but I have hopes of fixing the original and getting rid of the clamp-on.
     
  14. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Can I get at least two people with an original steering wheel to measure the horn button groove; its depth from either the top or bottom of the horn button recess?

    Also is it a rounded groove or a V groove or what?

    Many thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
  15. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    Let me see if I can dig out my factory wheel. I should still have it and it didn’t get completely destroyed when I replaced it.

    Give me a little bit though, it’s stored in a non-heated exterior garage and it’s wicked cold up here at the moment.

    :worry:
     
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  16. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    I dug out the wheel and have some info for you. Keep in mind my caliper/micrometer is a bit too large for this tight of space so some "eyeball measuring" was needed.

    It measures approx .267" from the bottom center of the wheel up to the first edge of the groove. It's approx .184" down from outer lip of wheel to first edge of groove. Overall dimension from outer lip to bottom center of wheel is approx .606".

    It is a rounded groove, and not a V shape. I made an impression of it for you using some 3M strip caulk and the image is below.

    First pic is of the stamping on the back side of the steering wheel. I believe this is correct for factory wheel marking. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
    Stamp.JPG

    Close up of the groove itself.
    Groove.JPG

    3M strip caulk impression to show shape of groove.
    Impression (1).JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2018
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  17. TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    SHELLER is correct for the factory/OEM wheel.
     
    PGHCJ5 likes this.
  18. Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Above and beyond the call of duty. Many thanks for this info!

    Now to break out the Dremel... [​IMG]
     
  19. PGHCJ5

    PGHCJ5 I smell something broken...

    No problem. Glad I can help. Let us know what you come up with. Be interested to know. Good luck!

    Edit: At one point I had found a fender washer that fit over the horn button/center area and could act as a guide for a dremel attachment.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2018