My CJ6 Frankenstein Build, Little Of Everything!

Been going on a year now that I have been slowly collecting parts for my build. Started out with a 1964 CJ6 that looked pretty good sitting on a 1978 Bronco frame.

As good as the floors looked at first.After removing the tool box, I have found the front pans have at least 2 if not 3 generations of repairs. Plan to cut them out and replace them with 14 gauge diamond tread steel.

But, the floors are not the most of my problem. The PO's had plenty of brazing rods and Bondo and were not afraid to used either!

The Bronco frame while was close on the wheel base but, put the trans cross member right under the engine oil pain. And the body was only held on with a half dozen 5/16" carriage bolts. So it is out with the old,
And in with the new. A TDK CJ8 frame that will allow me to run a late model front clip, the extra room under the hood will allow the fitment of the motor I am going to run, and give me wide-track spring width. Will only have to shorten the rear overhang.

As far as why I need the extra room under the hood, the motor I'm going to run is a Cummins 4btaa. Besides the motor I need room for an inter-cooler. For a transfer case I'm going to run a 1991 Dodge NP205 that I will twin-stick. For a front axle I am going to run a Dana 44 out of a 1977 Wagoneer that I will narrow to wide-track width and the 9" rear axle that was under the Bronco frame and narrowed to 1977 Bronco width to match the cut down front axle. The front axle came out of a 1977 Wagoneer hulk that I bought for $300 pulled the axle and steering box then scrapped the rest for $273. Once I get the YJ springs I am planning to run and the Dodge NV4500 trans my JEEP will have parts spanning from 1964-2001. A 37 year span of parts, trying to use the best of the best for a 1 time build.

 

looks like a great start.

 

Looks like a good plan... I would look into some stouter axles to help deal with the 4bt... You could full width one tons with H1 wheels and it wouldn't be too wide...

 

Not a fan myself of the look of full width axles. Don't plan on running over 32" tires, one ton axles cost too much ground clearance. Would be OK if I was planning 37"+ tires. I know the 4bt makes a lot of torque down low but, still only 265 ft/lbs. Weight is only about 50 lbs more than an iron big block V-8 the Dana 44 should hold up fine as long as I don't try to jump it or get stupid.

 

Heck yeah man, keep us posted, that's gonna be a very interesting machine!

 

I'm very interested in this build. I really wanted to go 4bt, and probably could have for the cost of the T-18, 225 rebuild, and adapters. I'll be following!

Had I gone that route I wouldn't be jacking with my carburetor and distributor now....

 

Right now I'm around $6,100 into this project. Figure I'll be double that when I'm done.

 

Good luck. My receipts total over $21000 and that is no labor.

 

It sounds like you're building a pretty mild truck. At first I had the same thought as some others did on the axle choice as I've seen a built 4BT (about 450hp) easily snap a D44 shaft (in an early Bronco) with 33" tires. As long as you don't get stupid with it, your axle choices should be just fine. Cool project!

 

Subscribed, sounds like a really interesting build

 

Got my measurements for my patch panels done and prints made up. Will drop them off next Monday at the steel fabricators to get them cut and bent. Thought about starting to cut out some of the bad areas but, decided since the tub is sitting on saw horses instead of frame I'd better wait until I have the steel home and able to brace the tub to keep it from moving. Will be 2-3 weeks before I can start on it due to that four letter word "work" and family commitments.

 

Finally got around to ordering steel today, should be a while before I have to mess with the front floor pans again, the lightest diamond tread Storm Steel has is 12 gauge. Will pick it up Thursday unless my work schedule gets changed again, otherwise it will be next Monday.

 

My youngest son Nic has graduated college and moved home till he finds work, he got bored today. Started in removing the spray can bed liner with a 7" grinder and a knotted wire brush, got quite a bit done. But, has found more work for me I was not planning on. Now with bed liner removed from the rear wheel houses looks like I'll be replacing those also. Since I'm not going for a correct restoration, think I'm actually going to use trailer fenders to make my own. Think if I do it right while it won't look correct will look good.

 

These are the fenders I'm looking about using. They are a lot easier to afford than the replacement rear wheelhouses they have available.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200330927_200330927

 

I think I'd be leaning towards repairing what you have for fenders. Just my .02 You will still have a lot of fabrication to make those trailer fenders work. Some quality time with a body hammer and some dollies and a little cut and patch and you could straighten out those fenders, unless there is more damage than I see in the photos.

 

^^ I agree. But man those trailer fenders look like they'd make a great high line rear fender for an FC-150.....

 

Pictures look better than the wheel tubs do in person. Would have to cut them out and pull them clear apart to get them close. They have at one time rusted away from the tub sides and someone braised them back together, The fronts are basically patches on top of patches that have been braised in place. The driver's side is rusting through from the bottom over the fender brace. Figure I'll have a lot less time into modifying the trailer fenders to work than repairing the stock ones. That and I have an idea of extending the wheel houses forward 14" so I can actually mount batteries in them to get them out from under the hood and away from the heat of the turbo. This will still give me around 6" more room to move the front seats back compared to a CJ5.

 

Those fenders look like a good alternative to me. But im not one to care much about original. If it works, good to go

 

Finally starting on the real body work, finding more work as I go. The PO's advertisement sign patch and butchered A-pillar support has been cut out. Should have the rocker patch panel done today but, won't be able to weld it in until I get the material to make a replacement support lower. Wish it would not be so hard to put in a complete A-pillar support but, I'm afraid I would end up with a real mess if I tried.

This is what I found behind the advertising sign that was used to patch the rocker panel. Figure the other side is just the same, will get 2 pieces of 16 gauge steel to replace both sides.

Patch panel is made and ready to weld in as soon as I get the steel to repair the A-pillar.

 

Deja Vu. I dealt with the same rust-out area on my tub. It's like Jeep designed that area to be a moisture/rust trap. The rear body mounts are great for rust also. The weep holes get plugged and the hollow stamped into the mount stays wet and eventally rusts through the body. What are those small clamps you are using called? I need some of those.