F134 stalling problem?

I have already checked the carb out. I pulled it apart and made sure it was there was no water in it and nothing was out of adjustment. The throttle shaft isn't worn out and doesn't have any slack in it also.

 

You were right about the throttle shaft having alot of play in it. I sprayed some choke cleaner around the carburetor base and it stalled out and quit. I pulled the carb off and removed the linkage from side and found the throttle shaft to have alot of play in it. So now I will have to find a new base plate.

 

"I sprayed some choke cleaner around the carburetor base and it stalled out and quit"

Check the flanges on the base. Over-torquing the nuts can warp the base ears and create a vacuum leak. You can flatten and true the base flanges with careful filing. Then use a new gasket.

 

I agree that excessive play can be an issue. I would be interested in knowing how much play is in your throttle shaft if you dont mind measuring with a wire gauge or narrow flat gauge ( if not no prob ) . I ask because I have had no idling or stalling issues on YFs with up to .010 play in the shaft, I have not worked on any with more than that yet. I install any rebuild I do on my jeep and drive it for a few days to make sure its ok.

For reference I have had pump diaphragms that seemed to idle ok leak enough to cause a momentary rough idle after hard deceleration, its not long after that they start flooding and wont idle at all.

This may not be your problem in the end but if you care to share the shaft play measurement we could put that info to good use.

 

I can pull up on the throttle shaft and the idle would change I just couldn't see the slack with the linkage on the throttle shaft. I'll try and measure it tomorrow. Are new throttle plates or bushing kits available?

 

JMO - if your carb body is worn so badly that the idle changes when you move the shaft around, just send it to a reputable shop for rebuild. Let them bush the body. The throttle plates and shaft will be fine. It's the carb body that is soft (zinc) and the holes in the carb body wear till they leak air. Common repair for a carb shop.

 

Ditto to Timgr.

I don't think the YF "has" bushings. Think they have to be fabricated and installed by boring out the throttle body.

 

The bushings are available on the open market. You can buy a kit on eBay of about $85. It has four bushings and a reamer for the bushings. The tricky part is finding someone with the experience to ream the throttle body correctly. Then you have to find a good shaft. I do my own bushings and make my own shafts.

 

Nice to hear kits are available. I didn't know that.

 

Well I fixed the rough idle but it still stalls out when coming to a stop. I have the idle set to 800rpm now after repairing the worn throttle shaft. But it still wants to stall out when going back to idle. So I looking at either a float or accelerator pump problem?

 

800 is too high for an idle. It needs to be 650-700. When you had the carb open, did you inspect the float axle pin for wear? They develop grooves which can alter your fuel flow through the needle and seat, causing flooding and stalling.

 

I'm going to pull the carb back apart again tomorrow if it isn't raining. When I got back from test driving it stalled in the drive way. I was able to get it started but it was puking out black smoke and soot. Which is how I know it is flooding when going from full throttle back to idle after being under a load.

 

Black smoke and soot is extreme. Something is WAY out of whack.

Sure you haven't lost a check-valve ball or something? A common thing that happens when the carb is turned upside down during 'cleaning' etc.

 

I'm not sure I'm going to look in the morning. I just watched this video so I'm going to check that then go from there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FqEjQsJfIU

 

Well there went seven minutes of my life that I will never get back...

The info in that video is accurate as far as it goes, but should have been no more than the first thirty seconds of a real analysis. He didn't even mention anything in the carb body itself.

Keep looking!

 

There is not hesitation on acceleration

 

My '60 idles rough at anything under 900 rpm on the tach. And it will stall if set to 650-700 rpm for idle.

I have it set at 1k because that is the smoothest idle. No lope or anything. Still the original carb on it.