My 67 CJ5 build

Had to walk away from it today.

I spent a about 3 hrs trying to get this lined up perfect. Used my other flange tool to put a flange on it



Got it pretty good



Then the welding and grinding started. I got very discouraged trying to get everything perfect. My welds suck so I have to do more grinding hence the surrounding sheet metal gets thin and it goes downhill from there.......need a break

 

Apparently my grinding skills suck too

 

After a couple you tube videos and the night off I think I got slightly better than good nuff

 

if it was easy,everyone would do it. keep going .

 

I'm welding sheet metal floor pans now in the wifes jeep. it isn't easy by any means to weld new stuff to rotten old stuff. I applaud your work. I hope when I'm done my work looks as good as yours.

 

Rear floor came in today




So the anal part of me wants to fill all those spots with a weld the grind, the smart part of me says leave it. The bondo will fill it....... thoughts ?

 

Those are probably small enough for spot putty.

 

It would be a first

 

Fill, you will be using bondo to straighten the panel. I do not know what you will be painting with. I can tell you, paint does not hide anything, only makes things worse.

 

get some tiger hair or similar product for the initial fill, sand smoothish apply creamy smooth bondo sand till smooth,topcoat with a 2k primer surfacer,sand till smooth,finish with 2k paint of choice.Notice no where did i mention spot putty or laquer primer,if it air dries without a hardener of some sort it will shrink or fail in some other ugly way.btdt...you can use sealer between the primer and paint just use a 2k type.it would be a shame to end up with a crappy finished product with all of your hard work.The tiger hair is waterproof to seal the holes that are left,bondo is not water will infiltrate under the fill and make rust. 99 percent of the finish is the prep under it.

 

Use a waterproof filler as much as you can.

 

Today took off one of the grill supports to get to the rust. Yes those are factory welds




Some time in the blasting cabinet



used my spot blaster on this then rust neutralizer and weld thru primer




This doesnt exist on a 67 cowl so more patching




Tomorrow's another day

 

Time to tackle the drivers side




I guess all the welding caused this to warp or sink in. Hammer and dolly does nothing any suggestions ? Don't want to fill that much

 

Might actually try a little heat. Heat a small area with a torch, carefully hammer and dolly, then quench with water, then move a little further. Should be able to shrink the area. Without heat you will end up with a oil can effect.

 

This video gives some insight into sheet metal shrinking...

 

only torch I have is a propane torch for soldering :-/

 

Had to bend these edges with a hammer









tomorrow I address this and the other column support