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Shock setups and odds and ends

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by bigjohn, Jan 12, 2011.

  1. bigjohn

    bigjohn Active Member

    So I am wrapping up wrapping up a spring over on my 75 cj5 on later model cj leaf springs (2" front, 2.5" rear), and would like feedback on shock mount setups, particularly on the front. I am thinking a shock hoop, maybe 4-5" over the frame rail so I can run a shock with some decent stroke. Picture/feedback would be great. I am building it street capable, but primarily trails/logging roads.
    Second, is there a fair priced way to run high steer without spending upwards of $700 bucks? Ive searched forums and shopped around and Ive come to the conclusion vendors are very proud of their high steer setups.
    Lastly, a CV rear drive shaft. I could retube the rear to extend it out just to get it going, but realize it wont last long on the road with the U joint angles. On the flip side, I dont want to pay big bucks for a custom CV shaft because I have an np435 waiting to go in when I can afford the adapters, ect. So, simply put, feedback/pictures would be great to help me make up my mind.
    Thanks in advance, John
     
  2. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    This is what I did...

    [​IMG]
     
  3. 45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    If you can afford the time you might plan on attending the Puyallup 4x4 Swap Meet 2011. I have found a few deals to be had there over the last couple of years. The one in my Jeep was a new Ford front cv drive shaft that I bought there two years ago for $5.00.

    Ed
     
  4. bigjohn

    bigjohn Active Member

    That is a great idea too. I thought about going last year, but didnt. Ive heard thats the biggest and baddest around for jeep/off road parts. Its coming up pretty soon now isnt it?
     
  5. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pull a front shaft out of a XJ or an explorer and cut it down your self. I have cut them down using a torch to blow the tube off the yoke, then cut the tube with and angle grinder (pipe cutter is preferred).

    Then pound the yoke back on and make sure it's still in phase, weld the tube back on and you are good to go. I haven't had any vibration issues doing it this way either. YMMV
     
  6. bigjohn

    bigjohn Active Member

    Do the explorer or xj shafts use the same type of U joint as the cj? I am liking that idea. I already re-tubed the front shaft for the extra length, so Im not apposed to doing the rear. I know at worst they are cheaper to have balanced that have built. Thanks for the input!
     
  7. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I know you will have to change the yoke on the T-case to match the CV, I am not sure about the yoke on the rear end. I think it takes a slightly narrower u-joint, there may be a conversion joint available or you may have to change the yoke to a 1310 style.

    D18 CV yoke- http://advanceadapters.com/product/2589/716298.html
    You will lose the parking brake with this
     
  8. 45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    The u-joints are the same. I did the same thing that alex211 did with the explorer drive shaft that I bought. Just be sure to keep the u-joints in time or you will get vibration.

    Check out Daryl's post for time and date of the swap meet.

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83330

    Ed
     
  9. bobracing

    bobracing web wheeler

    Look at 80s Ford truck front shock mounts. They are cheap and can be cut down for whatever height you want.

    No pics but a search should come up with more than you want.

    edit:
    quick search:
    http://www.wildyoats.com/ford_shock_mounts.htm
     
  10. Ragnar2xx2

    Ragnar2xx2 Member

    If I remember correctly, I think Wagoneer shock towers work nice to give you a few extra inches.
     
  11. wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    How do the explorer/jeep front shafts hold up in the rear end?
    For high steer conversions, I've heard a little bit about reaming out the tie rod end holes in the knuckles and using heim joints to replace the rod ends, supposedly allowing you to put the tie rod on top of the knuckle rather than below. I don't know the details of it or what other plethora of problems you may encounter. Might be worth a little searching though. Not sure of legality of heims for on road use in your state. Pretty sure they are not legal in PA but not sure of that either. Never checked.
     
  12. bigjohn

    bigjohn Active Member

    I like the ford truck idea. I think Ill fab something for the mounts. Got a full set of shocks from a jeep buddy in Astoria for 10 bucks. haha, funny and used but fair amount of travel, just need to design a system that will work.
    I think Ill re-tube the drive shaft I have for now and see if it works. I know it will be knocking on the angle limits door, but that seems the best plan of attack for now.
    Wheelie, thanks for the input, but after much thought, research and inspection the bit of knowledge Ive come up with is I need high steer knuckles to do it on the jeep. Progress is good.
    In other news, fixed my radiator hole tonight, and monted the electric fan, which will be my primary fan for the time being. I think I have a plan to set it up on a thermostat and have a over-ride switch. Good times!
     
  13. wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Hey, I missed what you are working on. Reaming is an option for the Dana 27 as there is no high steer conversion parts available for it that I am aware of. Your Dana 30 might have other options/parts available for the conversion.
    So, how do the front shafts hold up in a rear app.?
     
  14. davistroy

    davistroy Grasshopper

  15. Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    The tierod isn't usually the problem child with a springover. It's the draglink that gets in the way. You can usually leave the tierod "as is" unless you just want to get it up out of harms way. I opted for PartsMike's high steer setup. Yes, it's a lot of money, but it's bullet-proof. I don't see to many other options other than making one of those goofy "S" shaped draglinks that will clear the springs. By the way, the PartsMike kit uses flatop Chevy D44 knuckles. The kit seems pricey, but by the time you find the Chevy knuckles and have them machined and then buy the high-steer arms you will have spent that much anyway.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2011
  16. bigjohn

    bigjohn Active Member

    :monkeys:Thanks posimoto, I like the looks of that. Ill give them a ring to get a price quote.
    In other news, installed an flex-a-lite electric fan this weekend, which seems to be a great upgrade, but when I went to move the jeep, I realized I forgot to adjust the clutch after shortening the rod and blew out my front driveline. So got the front retubed with heavier .120 wall tube (I think it was .080 before), and decided to break down and order a good cv shaft for the rear.
    Nothing makes me smile like rework, but good to have a shaft I can trust.
     
  17. Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Ya gotta trust your shaft! ;)