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Pic's Of Herm's Saginaw Conversion With Manual Reverse Rotation Box

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by scarecrow, Jun 3, 2008.

  1. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    Ground down frame some, small notch in front cross member, 3/4” spacer under spring perch & adjusted drivers steering stop out 1/8”. Plan to use Herm’s steering shaft & stock Jeep column kit. Will post pic’s when I get to that point
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2008
  2. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    few more
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2008
  3. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    last 2
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2008
  4. 1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Beautiful photography!

    That is a manual box? Nice.
     
  5. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    Yes, it's a manual box. Ford reverse rotation, I like things simple. Forum members always need pic's. Just want to be helpful:)
     
  6. Herm

    Herm New Member

    I assume that the reason Mark had to put a spacwer under the front differential os because occasionally when the spring pads are welded to the housings , they are not in a correct position and don't allow enough clearance between the tie rod and the spring. By raising the differential up it will clear. I appreciate Mark doing the pictures and the install since I don't have a flattie. I wouldn't fit in one very well. Great pictures by the way Mark Herm
     
  7. 1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Flipping the tie-rods to the top would take care of that problem.
    Look at Grannycj's photos
     
  8. StraightToPlaid

    StraightToPlaid Ludicrous speed!!!!

  9. dohc281

    dohc281 It is what it is.

  10. RK1956

    RK1956 New Member

    Scarecrow, I'm hoping you or someone else with experience using Herm's tie rods and tie rod ends can help me out. I plan to change out the stock Ross in my 1956 wagon and don't quite understand how to measure for the tie rods. What I have done is measure the actual length of the lower (long) rod with the stock tie rod ends showing about 1/2" of thread exposure, then shorten this measurement by 1.5" to allow for the jam nuts that each take 3/4". On the upper arm I temporarily mounted the manual saginaw box to the frame, set the pitman at the mid-point of range of travel then measured to the point directly vertical from the passenger side existing tie rod mount. This measure is 33 1/2" but am thinking this is too long due to the double tie rod end Herm uses in his kit. How am I going wrong on this or can someone help me so I can give Herm the right meaurement.

    Thx. RK1956
     
  11. RVSwisher

    RVSwisher Member

    Looking at this, the stearing box is in behind the front cross member. I don't think I have ever seen a conversion like this. I really like this idea as it eliminates the problem of the steering shaft going through the front cross member.

    Could you do a tie rod end swap at the same time and eliminate the issues with hitting the springs?

    Thanks

    :)
     
  12. windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    I'm runing working on istaling herms kit in my 57 cj6 and runing it with stock :v6: mounts and a dana30. I had problems with the short tirod acctualy being overtop of the long tie rod at ful turn. I also did a tie rod flip but had to put it back to the bottom because the tie rods where actually hiting each other. I also had to cut into my cross member and slide the box forward as far as possable. Also to run stock :v6: manifolds (rear dump) I'll will probably end up runing a third u jount on my steering shaft. The steering box has about a 1/4" of crearance with the fan blades. I will probably be taking a little off the mounting bushings on herms bracket 1/4" or so and might have to move my motor over a 1/2 as well.
     
  13. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    RK1956
    will this side by side comparison photo help with your measurements ?
     
  14. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    I had the same problem with the tie rod & drag link hitting each other. And I could not mount the drag link from behind as sugested by Herm because it interfered with the steering knuckle. I notched the from cross member in order to move the steering box forward & make the drag link & tie parralel to each other with no interference. To Herms credit & my stupidity, he informed me that their is plenty of meat on the steering box mount itself & I could have ground that down instead of notching the frame member. He also offered to to do it for me. As for motor clearance, I have not gotten that far & I plan to run headers instead of stock manifolds.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2008
  15. RVSwisher

    RVSwisher Member

    Scarecrow,

    Were did you find your manual reverse steering box? Reading Herm's site, it doesn't sound like you can purchase a reconditioned from NAPA.

    Did you purchase or find in a scrape yard?

    Thanks
     
  16. scarecrow

    scarecrow Member

    Very common box check Herm's sight. Gives a listing of Ford & Mazda vehicles that use it. I don't remeber where I bought it, just used a company I found doing a Web search for steering boxes. Mine is new not a reman. Cost was about $225
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2008
  17. davistroy

    davistroy Grasshopper

    Windyhill, can you post any pics of your steering setup? A lot of the pics are gone out of this thread.

    Thanks.
     
  18. Ranger

    Ranger Member

    Okay, so I can't see any pics posted on this thread. Are they missing, or is there something wrong on my end?

    Ranger:hurrican:
     
  19. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Attachments were lost when the site was hacked a couple months ago.
     
  20. Ranger

    Ranger Member

    Thanks. I hadn't noticed that this string had started prior to the hacking. My mistake.:beer: