Fording Alternators +

This. When I was younger and less seasoned I used to drive my M37 into every deep water we could find, seemingly, because of the 42" depth capability (without the fording kit). I never pushed it to the 84" with the fording kit. Changing all that oil gets old in a hurry, and even worse, packing all the wheel bearings. And on the Sierra Trek (Fordyce trail) in my 3B, I once bent my fan pretty bad, and the water went over my lap. Later they told me I wasn't supposed to go straight across the river, the shallow track was down river a little. But I didn't know because no one was in front of me when we got there.

 

I remember a TV commercial in the late sixties, with a scuba diver driving a Jeep on the ocean bed. It had a long snorkel hose.

I don't remember what the commercial was advertising, but think it may have been Timex watches, but couldn't find it with a search.

I can date this commercial to late sixties because I remember it being in color and we didn't have a color TV until late in 1968.

I was amazed by it, and remember my father laughing and saying "Nothing new about that, the Army built waterproof Jeeps during the Korean war."

 

I recall it too, but maybe early-to-mid Sixties. My recollection is in black and white... Possibly for a brand of gasoline that let you go "further?"

 

Like I said, I am not sure what they were advertising, I thought Timex watches because they had a lot of adds putting watches through extremes, but it could certainly have been an add for a brand of gasoline. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking, or put a tiger in your tank?

It may have been before we got that color TV, it was a Philco industrial or institutional model in a grey metal cabinet. Mom hated the look of the thing, because it didn't go with the furniture, but dad was happy as a clam because he got it for a good price.

Before we got it, I thought the scenes in the westerns looked like they were supposed to look, thought the West was dusty and grey, and was disappointed the first time I saw the Lone Ranger in a baby blue suit. I could be imagining the add was in color because I didn't know the difference before then.

 

I may be inaccurately remembering the world in Black and White...

https://imgur.com/4rPGp

 

I found a better one:
Audi 11246

 

I saw those too but they don't look like they are 100% sealed in the working area like the Bosch one.

 

Ahh, I was looking at the Hitachi having mounting ears, usable coolant hose connections, common pulley, 3wire internally regulated.
The front plate looks like it could be replaced with a solid plate or drilled and tapped. The slots in the case are the big issue. A tube of rtv would fix them though.
I wonder if plumbing some 3/4" hose from snorkel to it and from it to the crankcase breather is enough ventilation having the water jacket.

 

So you anticipate actually submerging your JEEP? If so, then yes, all the things mentioned above. If you're talking about creek crossings that up to the front marker lights, then I'd say an electric fan is the best and simplest way to go. Just turn the fan off before you go in. No more water spraying all over the engine or bent fan blades.

I'd also suggest, if sealing up the distributor as you mentioned, maybe a vent line from the cap to somewhere high. Friend of mine, with an old Scout, sealed his up tight because he used to like to play in the river. One fine day his Scout just started running like crapola. We pulled the cap off and found moisture inside and some corrosion, presumably from condensation. He drilled the new cap, glued a piece of copper tube into it and ran a vent hose into cab and up to sun visor area. No more problems.

 

I'll be over my Headlights at some point.
That JT with ozark overland is not small and he posted more videos (which i have yet to watch through) from this years run.
This is a 3 year out sort of goal. I won't be ordering a bunch of stuff right now but I will address items as I can. Like I did a remote transfercase vent when I had the floorboard off for the brake master cylinder. The pcm is out for all the welding so I want to modify a small ammo box for it. Tail light wires are pulled off the frame and I want to get some round flush mount tail lights on it while I fix the tub corners. My fuel tank got a remote vent and the filter is already water separating with drain.
Mike's pictures are what I want to be prepared for. Not that I expect to dive in but happens and it's burnt me once.

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Things that I know need considered (no specific order)
Radiator fan, electric conversion
Alternator,
Fuel tank Vent
Crankcase (Pcv breather and all)
Distributor (mine has a vent on the bottom, are plugs and wires an issue if die electric grease is used?)
Brake master cylinder (remote fill)
Rear axle
Front axle
Transmission (shift tower cv boot and shift rail end plugs/grooves)
Transfercase
Starter and solenoid
Clutch assembly (do what I can)
Radiator overflow (needs to not pull in water as system cools)
Battery should be ok
Intake
Exhaust.
Pcm o2 sensor and ignition components
Dash Cluster and switches
Convert to LED Tail lights and stop light switch
Headlights and turnsignals.
Steering box (are manual ross and Saginaw boxes vented somewhere?)
Adding a sealed electric winch to my toolkit would likely be a good idea

Then there is always the need to grease everything and check fluids for water with each incursion.

My view is to do what I can before it is needed. This is Missouri so flooding is a real concern.

 

The military system, while referred to as "vented" actually went a step further and pressurized the spaces. How the PCV valve was invented.

I'm thinking that you'd be better off starting out with an M-series jeep.

 

I believe even the bell housing was pressurized on M38 series.

 

I believe so but I've got a chevy bellhousing to deal with on this one.

 

Some do, some don't. For the record, both my 1952 militaries have sealed caps, no valve.

The one I recently brought home had gas in the tank, after sitting for 50 years!