wagoneer axles under a flattie?

ok this might be a stretch so let me know what you guys think... many of you have done axle swaps in the past and i never have so maybe this is a good idea... maybe not. This ebay listing is about 20 minutes away from where i live and its his second time listing it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=150024983699&ih=005&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

only thing i want it for are the axles and the steering column... i figure i could buy it up... pull out the axles and the column and either part out or scrap the rest.
dude says that the brakes are in good shape... so the question is... how difficult would it be to sling these under my flattie? I'll be doing a Saginaw steering conversion and installing my 2.5" superlift springs at the same time. another big concern is... can i still use the frame mounted master cylinder with the brakes on these axles? (i believe them to be Dana 44's). ok i know i've written a lot so lets see what you guys think. thanks!

 

If you search for wag. axle swap, it will be pretty much the same procedure as putting them under a CJ5. That year will be good to start with since it has the offset rear end and you should be able to steal the power steering off it also.

 

I used waggie Dana 44's for my CJ3b and they are the short ones. Where I only had to cut down one side to make them line up with the stock spring locations. And at that they are at 57 inches Wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. Which is about max that I would go on a Flattie. I used the Dana 20 transfer case also because it is so much quieter and trouble free. Don't have to rebuild the intermeate gear as often. I don't know how you could use them without cutting them down, they are too dang wide for a flattie, just my veiw as I have gone down this path already. Oh, and it does have nice aluminum wheels on it

 

cool... what did you do for brakes?

 

I'm using the stock waggie disc brakes up front and using the same in the rear. I going to use the six lug pattern even though it is not common on a CJ, but it is a common pattern now days on so many rigs, so it is no big deal. I do have the small spindle from the Waggie, so I could use ford hubs and go five lug if I want.

 

do the stock brakes work ok with the frame mounted Willys master cylinder?

 

I slung a set from a 77 waggy under my 3A...from the first testing I did with the original brake master...not a chance...maybe I didn't do it right. I had the axles out from under the waggy...hooked up some steel lines I had laying around and pumped the brake master. (had it screwed to a 2x4 on the ground) Even after bleeding the system many times..I couldn't get enough actual fluid movement in the system to fully squeeze all 4 corners. Ditched the original and went with a power brake setup from a donor XJ.

 

D44's from a '79 Waggy here too. I went outboard with all the springs. Used an MC from a later CJ (disc front, drum rear). No residual pressure valves (had aftermarket RPV's from Wilwood, but the system wouldn't work right until I removed them). The axles were wide, but not too bad...

Here's a few pictures. 36x12.50's on hummer beadlocks cut and recentered to 3.5" of backspacing to clear the high steer arms. Also included a picture of the rear outboard mount I used (this is for Dan Stewart).

 

now THATS what im talking about!!! Sick Rig Tim!! looks awesome!!!

ok guys... ive finally figured out what you mean by outboarding... i think im going to have to put this one on hold for a while... a little too much modification for the time being... its going to start getting pretty cold up here soon and i want to spend more time wheeling and less time cutting and welding (for now!) but its definitely in the future plans.

thanks guys!

 

dang, tim sweet rig.

yeah what tim said. outboard front definetly, i also suggest outboarding rear for stablitly. master cylinder off waggy to be esay, adapted with a bracket made to work if you want to keep frame pedals. soa or sua which ever you want, do research and get some help. and remember wider is better.

 

And remember - if you don't outboard the rear, you'll have to set the passenger side spring purch on the pumpkin itself. You can see in that bottom picture how close the perch is, even with the outboard mounts.

Mike is right - I kept the original pedals and frame mounted MC. I just did some simple modification to the original MC support bracket, and I made my own MC mount (since the stock MC has bolts that go through the frame).

It's time-consuming work, but it's not all that difficult.

 

Hey Tim, nice set up on your rig. I'm thinking of running outboard rear springs on my cj5 (but keep front in the stock width location). Can you share with me how you a running your shock set up for the rear?

Thanks,
Martin

 

I never ran any!

Since it was a trail rig, I didn't bother with shocks right away. Once I started using it, it was one of those "last projects" that I never got to....

 

I know this is an old thread but what master cylinders will work that still mount underneath on the frame in a 69 cj5, I just put 77 wagoneer axles in my jeep, I modified the MC ,removed the residual valve in the rear port, used that port for the front brakes,added a 2 lb inline residual valve also, the brakes dont work unless I pump the pedal once, then i have brakes.....Im thinking I need a different MC since I dont think the original one moves enough fluid for thr big pistons in the dana 44......any ideas?

 

I’d keep troubleshooting what you have. Even if it wasn’t a perfect match, you wouldn’t have to pump the pedal to get it to function; it would just be poor performance.

I’d bet you either still have some stubborn air in a line, or one of the rotors is badly warped or mounted crooked, pushing the caliper apart too far when it rotates.

 

My first thought was swing pedals, but because a lot of guys have done this, it should be solvable as is. I am pretty sure your MC will work with the front discs, it almost has to be a bleeding issue.

 

thanks, im making a plate that bolts to the top of the MC so i can use my pressure bleeder. timsresort said he had to use a pressure bleeder on his, conventional pedal bleeding didnt work....im going to try and get this done in the next few days....

 

As others have noted, make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly. Too much slack there can cause issues.

 

well I disconnected the brake lines at the master cylinder today, used the plastic lines/bench bleeding kit had my son push the pedal slowly down and back up a bunch of times ,got some air out, did this until we didnt get any air out for several times....then went to each wheel, bled them , got no air, I put wheels back on and no change ,,,i still have to push the pedal twice to get good brakes....I pulled the wheels off, pressure bled the system ,since i got the plate finished today....still no change .....I dont know what to try next...I took the drivers side caliper off the rotor,used some steel for a spacer, had my son push the brake pedal, the piston only moves a little bit ,when he pushes the pedal down twice it moves a little more....sure seems like the MC isnt moving enough fluid when pushing on the pedal....I have the same size calipers that are on my 3/4 ton 72 chevy truck....

 

I see where you said you modified you master cylinder and removed the rear port residual valve and connected that port along with a 2lb inline valve to the front disc brakes. Did you ever install the 10lb residual valve in the rear brake line circuit?