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Correct Torque Setting For Rear Output Of D18?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by SoCalNickG, Feb 16, 2021.

  1. SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I am reassembling my D18 parking brake later tonight, provided my son returns the torque wrench. I could not find a torque number to tighten the rear output (companion flange) nut in the FSM. If this is listed in the FSM, where is it listed? Am I seeing it and not recognizing it? I have two versions of the FSM (older and newer) and I can’t see the torque for this listed in either.

    I did find that Novak says to tighten it to 175 lb/ft. Does 175# sound correct?
     
  2. Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I don't know that there is one ( Oldtime, Timgr!) The original "castellated" nut is hard to source with self locking ones normally sold now. References run from 65 to 175lbs. With endplay properly set I'd probably shoot for around 100, especially if you are adding a cotter pin. Self locking maybe 125...Ymmv never heard/experienced of one coming loose.
     
  3. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    All I could do is look it up in the TSM. in 1975, a model 20 is 225-250 ft-lbs. I can't find a number in the earlier book.
     
  4. SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    The output shaft on my transfercase has no hole for a cotter pin. It does have a self locking nut. Did any D-18 come with an output shaft with out a cotter pin hole, from the factory?
    The PO had sealed the companion flange (splines/ hole) with an orange RTV of some kind.
     
  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    The nylock nuts that are sold for these are supposed to be one-time use items. I have reused them with the addition of blue Locktite, but better to replace them.