Replacement Wiring Harness

Hey guys I’m new to the website. I have a 69 Cj 5 with the v6. It is currently running but in need of a new wiring harness. I have looked at ez wiring, centech and painless. I’m leaning toward the painless harness for the pre 75 cj. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I bought a painless for mine , looks like a good kit and each wire is labeled for a easy install . But I am a-ways from installing it .

 

Just FYI, you're in the wrong forum for a '69. You should be in the "Early CJ-5" forum, not "Intermediate."

IMO any of the hot rod harnesses will work equally well. These kits give you a bunch of various colored wire connected to a fuse panel. You will need to figure out which circuits to use and how to incorporate the existing components. The Walck's harness will be like the factory harness. A few owners here have made their own repairs or new harness using the factory wiring diagram - the original wiring is quite simple. Up to you which you prefer and what you feel capable of.

Welcome from Boston!

 

Thanks for the reply’s!! Yes I did notice I was in the wrong thread after I posted. Immmew to this site. I did look into the harness from Walcks I’m not very far from their shop about an hour away. They only thing was it did not come with a fuse block. Like you said it’s a factory replacement i thought it would be nice to upgrade to a fuse block.

 

When you use an aftermarket harness, you're now different from the factory configuration. In addition to figuring out the interface of the existing components to the harness, now the TSM is no longer useful wrt wiring. If I went with an upgraded harness, I would keep careful notes about how the Jeep is wired, and save whatever diagram and instructions/description that comes with the harness ... and maybe create extra diagrams to keep along with the Jeep.

 

I’d like to use it on the weekends for hunting and some occasional off-road use. Current condition is running and road worthy. I can’t get an inspection sticker. The wiring is holding me back because I need turn signals wipers brake lights horn and all that stuff. It’s also been hacked into someone added a push button ignition switch. I don’t know why I bought a new switch for the dash and some new ignition points and it runs fine. One more thing I noticed is I can’t find a voltage regulator on it anywhere. I’m assuming it’s internal in the alternator a previous owner may have converted it. It looks like a newer aftermarket alternator. Thanks for he inputs so far much helpful.

 

The Delco 10SI alternators and their later versions have an internal regulator. These are a very popular upgrade. Likely that's what you have.

Pics would be good.

 

Okay I will get some picks posted tonight. Thanks much

 

There is really no issue with running an EZ unit, the wiring diagram is not really useful for the factory one anyway. You find the wires, there generally burnt and faded to the point you can't read them, they are generally spliced and scavenged back together from years of abuse and use. I bought my EZ back in 2002 I think it was, and installed it in 2005. The wire is labeled every 6" thru out the harness, the fuse panel is easy to read and is marked as to what circuit is what. Now my harness is different than the ones available now. Mine is all black wire but I am the first user on this board to have boughten one all those years ago they have been color coded and labeled for the last 10 years or so. It took 2 days to rewire my jeep. I can pull my body off now and not do anything but pull a few connectors, the wiring to the front and engine stay with the motor, all else comes out with the body. The ez is every bit as good as the painless and others but is cheaper due to not having the factory connectors for the ignition switch and such and the fact that it is a small family owned business. I highly recommend the EZ wire setup, I have the 12 circuit standard, not mini fuses and have plenty of leftover circuits for other options. The fuse block gives you heavier gauge wire and relays to brighten your factory headlights and has the blinker unit in the fuse panel.

 

Got pictures of the alternator let me know what you guys think

 

Delco 10SI. The excite wire has been clipped and the sense wire is wired back into the battery. This makes the alternator effectively a "1-wire" alternator, but it probably is not a true 1-wire.

See here Catalog and here Catalog

 

Thank you Very much for getting back to me . My next question is Kind of dumb. when I wire it to the new harness just follow the directions for a gm 1 wire alternator. What would I do with the wires calling to go to the voltage regulator. I guess what I’m asking is if that information would be with the instructions for the ez wiring harness.

 

I suggest you read the articles at the links I posted above. I would wire it as a 3-wire Delco.

The 10SI conversion is very common, and I'd guess harness will have instructions that consider that. Your instructions are probably online somewhere for you to read before purchase. Have you looked for them at the EZ Wire web site?

 

Another approach is to repair the harness you have or build one yourself. I have done a number of old vehicles from the 40's 50's and 60's over the years and their simple wiring harness's don't present much of a challenge. I highly recommend soldering all connections and splices with 60/40 rosin core solder and staying away from crimp connectors, they lead to trouble later on especially in a vehicle that may get exposed to the weather. Take it a circuit at a time and make temporary labels from tape and even without a lot of electrical background it is a do-able job.

 

I’m going to call ez today I have a few questions for them before I pull the trigger on the harness. I have to find out if I need to buy their ignition switch dimmer switch and headlight switch. I purchased all of this parts new recently. I checked out the instructions online and the only part that was a bit confusing was the alternator wiring but it does appear it should work. As for soldering or crimping I’m not sure yet I have soldered repairs on harness on previous projects so I do have the equipment. I’d have to buy the wire crimp tool

 

I like to solder too, but I use uninsulated butt connectors, crimp, solder, and cover with adhesive-lined heat shrink. Pretty much a belt and suspenders approach. If you want to use crimp connectors, I'd suggest you buy uninsulated connectors, a proper crimping tool, and cover the joint with heat shrink. The typical insulated crimp connectors are not sufficiently weather-proof for this use, IMO.

Non-Insulated Butt Connectors - Brazed Barrel

When you are splicing to old wires, often the surface of the wire is oxidized. You'll see this when you strip off the insulation and the wire will be brown (old penny), not bright copper (new penny). The flux used in soldering can clean off this oxidation. IME the flux in rosin core is not enough to be effective on old wires - you need some additional flux. You'll need to add a little extra flux Rosin Soldering Flux Paste 50G - - Amazon.com The behavior of the solder (it flows and fills the joint) will tell you if you got a good bond.

One alternative is to use the existing plastic shellls and put them together with new Packard connectors. This article BASIC WIRING 101, Getting You Started! - JeepForum.com discusses this approach. DelCity has the Packard connectors too. Packard 56 Series Connectors & Terminals