2X4 frame for my CJ2A

Thanks for the link. I ran out of that awful 3o year old DuPont Imron when I got a real 2A windshield to replace the 3A one that came in this particular free jeep kit. I went to the DuPont paint store and after getting past the indignation and some of the condescension that I was using IMRON, they looked up what was called "alert orange" in 1974 or so and mixed me up some single stage. The color match is as perfect as my eyes can see, i am not good with color, and the paint was better in every single possible way than that old free IMRON I got out of junk yard. Yeah, it was stored In Pennslyvania in a junk yard, in a box for a box truck, sans truck. It had been frozen countless times and there was many gallons of this paint in orange and brown, but only 2 quarts of hardener that had not eaten its way out of their can. I couldn't get reducer for it, so I just found a reducer than had the most MEK in it. It was THICK. I had to reduce almost 50%

The modern stuff sprays better, mixes better, lays flat better, higher gloss and wears substantially better too. Its pretty expensive too.

Thanks for looking and contributing.

 

I've always had an affection for Allis Chalmers orange, though I can't decide on which one of the 3 I would like best. I like the color. I like the sound of the name. I like how tough it seems like it would be. My standard Mack Truck green held up fairly well over the years, though, admittedly, the JEEP has spent most of it's life, since being painted, out of the sun. The straight enamel paint is fairly hard. I'm not sure that a base/clear wouldn't have been a better choice, though. I was just figuring on the paint getting banged up on the trail so, I didn't want to spend much on a paint job. Thus, the inexpensive paint.

 

I used Dupont Allis Chalmer orange on this rig and really liked it.
Was pretty cheap by the gallon.
Great safety color for the slow speed Jeep and it rarely needs a wash.

http://cj3b.info/Owners/Bushdiecker.html

 

Ken, that jeep looks awesome! The paint I have is no longer "alert orange" but "safety orange". I do not do base/clear but have them mix in the clear with the paint. single stage.

I made a riser for the bed this morning. I cut it out, then score it to make the bends. It works well, but as you can see some of the metal tore as I bent it. Its not the least bit of an issue as I will have to weld the bend to create the strength the body part needs anyway. Its the only way I can make a straight bend since I have no brake.


In this shot you can see the straight edge I use that sandwiches the flat stock to the table and I make the bend with a big pair of channelocks and a hammer.
the transmission on the table is my sm420 and thats going to get new bearings and synchros real soon. Vacuum booster/master and spacer from a wrangler is there for mock up for swinging pedals. Its really rusty and for 50 bucks its really pushing its value. Might work.

 

Welded that riser in. Used some scrap I had for the body mount. Its too thick, but it works was free and right there. Its far from prefect, but exponentially better than what i replaced and is perfectly square to the rear panel which is perfectly square to the frame. It will make building the bed easy, relatively.

The riser is 4 1/2 inches tall. this gives me a bit more than an inch over the top of the tank siphon/float housing. It should also clear the tank filler too. Problems are melting away.

 

Any rubber or polyurethane cushions between those mounts?

 

Yes, I have some 5/16 rubber that i will use all the way around. i just want to make sure everything is bolted tight to my frame. Its the only thing that is square and straight on my entire jeep. I may bag that idea and get some real polyurethane, but whatever I do will have to be custom.

 

Get some real Polyurethane mounts........they have about a 90% memory factor. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com ;http or prothane.com/...........Energy has a bushing that is about 5/8" thick.............give your body a treat!

 

awful yes ,durable incredibly so ,miss that stuff yes. Painted a buddy's monte carlo thirty years ago in imron black still shiny and decent even after a three year stint under a cover under the pine trees.

 

Holy Cow Chris!....You have been busy! I haven't been on here in a while! It looks great! I am jealous of all the cool stuff you have been doing! Subscribed.....now that your almost done. lol

 

Thanks, but I have a long way to go.

 

had a couple minutes surrounding work/making dinner, etc. Found a clean new sheet in my pile of used sheet steel. Made the bed out of it. initial fit up.

Welds on the riser aren't as bad as the burnt paint makes it look. I did go bright and shiny for the weld, but the paint got hot on the bottom and near to the weld. didn't wire wheel it yet.

 

If you dot mind me asking.....what did you pay for your steel? I bought some 2.5x2.5 .250 wall for my trailer I built last year and it was pretty salty. I had to buy it in 24' sticks.

 

Very impressive work! One thing I always wished jeep would have done when they moved the fuel tank to the rear is provide an access panel to the sending unit. Similar to the master cylinder access panel.

Keep up the good work.

 

The sheet steel I bought for a project and it was something like 60 bucks a sheet. Its 11 gauge or something ,0.175 clean~0.185 with primer rolled on. It might be less now. The sticks of 24' 2x4x3/16 thick were 100 bucks each. These are all new prices.

 

that seems like a great deal. especially when you compare that to the price of a replacement frame. And you got to build it exactly how you wanted it. I think I paid around $140 per stick for the 1/4" wall stuff i used on my trailer. Your tub is looking great! I have never been very good at sheet metal work so i really enjoy watching others work with it.

 

Thank you for the compliment. There is still plenty of time for me to screw it all up. I am not a giant fan of the uncorrugated bed, but free vs 350 bucks is a no brainer for me. I hadn't seriously considered installing an inspection hatch for the sender/siphon. There will be a non fold and tumble rear seat bolted over the tank. I will have to think about this. It would be significantly easier to service that area rather than dropping the tank. I might be able to cut a nice hole on my mill and make a matching cover.........

Thanks for the idea!

 

Obviously you are not going to be able to roll a bead into the 11 gauge floor panel. If you have the room, you can gain the same effect by installing 3 or4 1/2" x 1/8" flat bars skip welded on edge to the bottom side of the panel. That will stop the oil canning / drumming effect that you will be getting with the flat panel.

As others have said, you are doing a good job!