Obsolete F134 ?

Is it still possible to overhaul a 134 without running into parts trouble, be it price or availability? This is assuming the block isn't cracked up bad. This one has low miles but hasn't been started since the mid-eighties. I would like to stay bone stock, but I really don't need a big hassle over so little engine. Someone here had posted a link, that I can't find right now, to new Chevy fours that I liked the looks of.

 

Check for cracks between the 2&3 cyl exhaust valves, they can be fixed, but It may not be in the budget...

 

Check Walck's. Think Carl has everything necessary to rebuild and probably minimal chinese content if any.
http://walcks4wd.com/

 

Thanks guys. Just got to wondering if it was going to be a hassle. I don't have the nerve to run an engine that has been dormant for decades anymore, and this is the only 134 I have. I'm thinking with a quality overhaul it should last the rest of the time I will be able to drive a Jeep.

 

The parts are still readily available BUT most find the cost of rebuilding one of these motors far outweighs the benefit. Like was stated above do a compression test and run it if it will run. Many have spent the time and money to rebuild a motor that was 90% of what it was new only to be severely disappointed when there was no noticeable gain in power once done. These motors were functionally obsolete long before they were ever installed in a Jeep. You are basically looking at 1930 technology here.

 

This is the reason I have a v6 225 in my cj2a. The parts to rebuild the l head 134 were more than the cost of the parts for the 225. The 225 weighs less, has a boat load more power and was cheaper to rebuild. Another option is to buy a FI 4.3 chevy v6 for 500 bucks running. I see them a lot on C/L. more power, ease of parts sourcing and plentiful. I personally like that idea a whole lot.

 

Daryl, that is absolutely not correct!!!!!!!






























The original L head 134 hit the market in the 1926 Whippet and although Roos actually made it more or less functional a decade later, it is mid 20's design. I'm also in the camp that would swap something else in unless one is doing an actual correct restoration.

 

The GM 3.0L Vortec industrial engine is available new. http://www.gmpowertrain.com/2013_pdf/FHR_VertREV_30L_Indust_061313.pdf
It's a bored-out version of the Chevrolet 153 cid 4-cylinder that was used in the Chevy II (which became the Nova) in the 60s. The 153 is 4/6th of the Chevrolet 230 cid inline six. It was also used in postal Jeeps, prior to the takeover of AMC. The 3.0L was and may still be available as a marine engine under the Mercruiser name.

This engine in 153 or 181 (3.0L) displacement has been a popular swap into CJs, though not as popular as the Chevy V6 or V8 or Buick V6s.

Any CJ engine swap will require some engineering by the installer - even the 4-cylinder requires some thought so that there is no driveshaft or axle interference.

If you search old posts, I'm sure you will find a lot about this conversion.

 

I would run it until it didn't and then go re power with something newer. The Fhead is fine. Its not great or awesome or fancy, but if it runs it will get you where you need to go. Change the oil, dump some new gas in the tank and start it up. Worst that can happen is that it doesn't run.

 

The only problem with that is you get to continually rebuild them usually someplace between 60 and 75k miles to keep an engine that doesn't use oil, foul plugs, smoke, and runs good. And you still don't have enough power to stay out of the way of modern traffic. The bottom line, as always, is what your expectations of the Jeep are. I put a lot of miles on both L heads and F heads when I was much, much younger-a lot of them in the boonies. The boonies were a lot more fun than the miles getting to the boonies but still have fond memories of trying to cool those suckers off by throwing buckets of water through the grills at every creek we came too. Bin there done that and not going 134 again unless I actually do get to a restoration project.

 

I have bought some classic cars that have not been run in years. Change the oil.... replace the antifreeze...... pull the plugs.....pour a little diesel fuel down each spark plug hole as a light lubricant and hand crank the engine over 6 or so times to loosen it up. Check the air filter housing for rodent nests. Put a fully charged battery and the plugs back in it and let it rip! It will smoke like the dickens at first until any residual diesel fuel burns off. If it was put away running it should run again! You got to give it a try before you can access the engine for a possible rebuild. Just my humble suggestion............................Nothing says early Cj more than L or F 134...I like'm!

 

I would always hesitate to repower, since from then on everything is custom when you need parts or service.

Knowing F-head parts are always going to be well-known and available is a big plus in my book.


I agree the F-134 is adequate and appropriate, if you aren't playing "Rat Patrol" or commuting on the Interstate.

 

Yes and no

Never had an adapter plate/housing/shaft break but they could and probably do-just none of mine to date. That said, small bock Chevy parts are WAY easier to find, WAY less expensive, last WAY longer, and have a WAY bigger selection available than for F head pieces. Don't really need to say they also have WAY more torque, even a lowly, obsolete 265. And they get better mileage.