HEI distributor cap #1 terminal

No I don't know what cam he means. My advance only came with springs and a set screw. I used the heavy springs.

 

New coil is in cap. The new system requires constant 12 volts. The old points type system used 9.8 volts, hence the resistor. The resistor is in-between the ignition switch and the end where it hooked into the old distributor. get rid of it or bypass it.
this might be what it looks like
http://www.carpartkings.com/standard-ignition-ballast-resistor-ru4t.html

 

It may be 180* out . Are you positive you were on compression at TDC on #1?

 

It sounds like your timing is off, these odd fire or mis fire motors are a bit different. You have to be sure you are at the TDC on piston #1 in it's firing position when you set the distrbutor. The old saying, do a search, this has been covered many times.

 

You can move the entire distributor aronud the drive gear together as a unit as many teeth as you. Take off the cap so you can hold the rotor in the same position in relationship to the dist housing. You might even want to mark the position of the rotor to the housing with a sharpy or pencil

The drive gear has 14 teeth, so each tooth you rotate the distributor gives you 25.7 degrees. Make sure to turn the oil pump drive slot before you put the dist back in.

I moved my wires over 2 positions, the motor runs fine, but there is a slight pop between the normal idling sounds, so I think I am going to put 1 back on 1 when I get chance. There is a difference between the contacts in the cap maybe this is why.

My "muffler" is just an old cherry bomb, so I hear every little change in exhaust noises.

 

It is actually very important to have the plug wires in the correct positions. The firing potions in the rotation of the engine are not evenly spaced. The engine will run if they are out of sequence, but some of the cylinders will not fire at the correct time. It will run, but not very well. I know because I did it incorrectly, then changed it to the correct way and it runs amazing.

read this whole thread and do as it states.
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...-a-austin-powers-voice)&highlight=distributor

 

I think we are still talking about an oddfire motor, you can't just move the sparkplug wires like on an evenfire motor. Homersdog told you how to do it. Don't be obsessed about the oil pump shaft, get the distributor clocked right, put the holddown clamp on with the bolt tightened finger tight, bump the starter a few times and the distributor should be lined up with the oil pump shaft and just slide the rest of the way in.

 

What can I say, I learned how to stab these oddfire distributors over 40 years ago. For me it isn't a big deal to re set them. read the Motts page again, For me, swapping all of the wires over 2 posts would be annoying. I get obsessed about my Jeeps and my woodworking. OK, sharp tools too, house or jobsite,

 

Once you have the rotor sinc'd with the distributor base /cap, you can rotate the whole unit together as many teeth as you need to put the vac advance pointed where you want it. That's all I was trying to say.

 

You need to add a 90* fitting on the vac advance. Mine came with a plastic one molded on. I also have a longer spacer on the front of the water pump. Might be because my engine is from a skylark.

As far as the oil pimp shaft, just turn it with a long screw driver and through trial and error get the distributor gear and it to line up as you insert it into the housing. Make a mark where your #1 plug is going to be on the lip of the base of the distributor housing while leaving the rotor in place. If you use the starter to bump the distributor in place ,if not meshed correctly, you can cause damage. Everything should fit together with little to no effort. The rubber o ring will require some slight force to seat in the housing. thats it.

Look and see the molded 90* fitting on the vac advance. Also to the right of the key for the correct indexing of the cap you will see a faint white line I drew. that is the #1. #1 must go in the correct location. Look inside your cap. you will see there are different contact points for different cylinders due to the different degrees with which the engine fires. This is why the plugs need to be in the right spot and not just moved over. I made that mistake and my engine did run, just not well. My phone distorts things slightly, but you get the point.


read this thread again please. http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...-a-austin-powers-voice)&highlight=distributor

 

Focker your dist cap is rotated 1/4 turn CCW from that one shown by 47V6. Is the cap locator tab fitting into the notch in the dist housing. If so then I believe we may have a problem here.