SOA Help.

So parts of the SOA were done by the PO and I'm trying to fix everything that was half assed and stuff that was missing. But here's my problem, is this the case of $hitty welds on the spring perches??? This happened after it was shifted into 4H, or did I just step into a whole different ball park

 

Bad or no welds on the spring perches definately the problem. Was the driveshaft bent when you bought it?

Those are also some of the longest shackles I have ever seen. That will cause street drivability problems.

 

No the driveshaft was straight as a whistle until I shifted into 4H and wham the front end hopped back ( no rear drive shaft)

Shackles are halfassed and they are getting replaced with stock size( it's on the list).

I guess I will readjust the axle and weld it myself so there are no issues (same with the back)

 

I hope that didn't damage the transfer case when the axle twisted... Definitely crappy/non welded spring perches as previously mentioned. Did you shift it into 4h with in neutral or in gear with the clutch in? Im trying to picture how it would go "WHAM". Clutch out of adjustment maybe?

 

Are you a experienced welder????? I have read in many places that you can actually weaken the axle tubes if your not.. It creates hot spots on the tube and weakens it. I have read those types of welds are best left to perfesionals. Glad it wasn't all together and you were driving it when that happened.

 

The clutch is definitely out of adjustment, that's why im going to do a hydraulic conversion while I'm at it, just sick of the linkage. And to be honest I don't even remember what I did.. And I hope it didn't mess anything up either, but if so I guess it would be a good time for a twin stick 300

 

Warning about spring perch welding:
If you are willing to do a lot of passes and grinding, you might be able to get a good weld on the perches with a 110v mig, however, I wouldn't reccomend it. However, for my SOA, I welded with a big old stick welder, and alot of amps to get a good bite. I've never had a problem with the perches. I had a friend who tried a 110v mig and ended up re-welding his perches over and over. I have a feeling a proper 220v mig could get you enough penetration to hold as well.

I have a feeling that those death-shackles-of-doom contributed to your problem also. That steup can give you alot of axle wrap, and really puts alot of stress on those spring perches. Don't even think of driving that jeep again with those on there, please.

 

I never planned on driving it far just got it back together and was trying to pull it out of the shop and up to the house to pressure wash the tub for rhinoliner.....

I'm placing an order with Curtis tatton today for the rear shaft and probably a new front. As well as with quadratec for axle tube shock mounts and new shackles.

Was going to do the YJ spring conversion while I was at it but don't have the money for steel to reinforce the frame and all the hangers and shackles and springs.

 

Probably going with the shackles

http://www.quadratec.com/products/12590_300X_PG.htm

 

McRuff makes and sell a great set. and He is a member here

 

Personaly, I would put the Jeep back to SUA, as you can get just as much lift with some new springs and not have the problems you are facing now. This is just my view on it, and yes welding on heavy axle tubes need at least a 225 welder, I just use my 225 Licoln stick welder when I need good weld penatration on anything over 3/16. It also does not look like the PO did a good job of setting up of the front steering to me. Getting back to as close to a stock set up would make life a whole lot easier for you and your Jeep. These Jeeps do not need all this jacked up in the air stuff to take you any where you need to go.

 

I tend to agree with the above statement... Go back to spring under. dont get me wrong, I think jeeps look so much better with a spring over, but there are problems to over come. Don't know if you have experience with driving a sprung over jeep or not, but I owned one. Rear Axle wrap will be a problem you will need to address, your front tie-rod and steering arm need to be as close to parralle to eachother as you can get them, (mine on my jeep are about a half inch apart, yours looks like almost a foot.) So that will need addressed. Those shackles are dangerous!!!!!! I would stay under 2"s on the shackle lift, the ones you posted look perfect to me. I would not order driveshafts untill you get it lifted the way you want, then measure to order new shafts. You can do a google search on rear axle wrap, there are some videos of rear axles doing what your front axle did, but out on a trail. Axle wrap can be over come, just requires more mods. A 4" sprung under lift and parts that I would include are, springs, shims, t-case drop, droped pitman arm, extended brake lines, steering box brace, and your done. No major mods

 

I guess I should fill in a little more info. I already have ordered front and rear cv drive shafts from Curtis tatton, so I'm not worried about this at all. I plan on doing the yj spring conversion come summer time and I want the spring over so I can have serious flex offroad. I am offerings set of bilstein 13" travel shocks as well as f250 shock mounts and axle tube shock mounts.

The angle of the drag link only appears to be at that angle because the entire axle was shift causing the steering knuckle to be almost perpendicular with the concrete, thus the illusion of the foot gap in between. I currently have a HD power steering box bracket as well as a support (not put on yet) and a 4in drop pitman arm. The spacing between in only mere inches.

I have 12" extended rubber brake lines (just in case) in the front and rear.

As for axle wrap I already have that taken care of as I'm in the process of building a ladder bar to control that.


So spring over is probably where I'm going to stay, and the only problem thus far is the poorly welded spring perches. I am going to hit the with a buddy's 220 miller when the shafts get in so everything will be correct.

As for now its back to rhino lining the tub while I wait on these wonderful driveshafts to get here on Monday!!!!

 

Sounds like a well thought out plan. Can't wait to see the finished product.

BTW: The idea that SUA can't flex is not correct. I had SUA on my old CJ-5 and as you can see, It had no problem at all with flex. I could stuff each tire all the way to the top of the wheel well.



The springs are 4.5" lift CJ to YJ HD conversion springs from Rubicon Express.

 

I just saw that picture some where the other day...lol.

I know SUA can flex too but I was looking for that extra flex provided by SOA. I was thinking about creating a build thread but I'm kind of a long already and have just taken a few pictures as I go.

 

When I put my Wagoneer axles under my Jeep I’m going to do it with SUA suspension on flat YJ springs. Yes, arched SUA springs can flex quite nicely but there are advantages to an SUA on flat springs.

Single ladder bar, placed as close to the center of the axle as possible and connected to a cross member by a shackle?

 

That's what I was thinking!?!

 

Sam’s sells one but you can make the same thing yourself.

 

For the end connecting the axle I'm using the bushings ends from an old shock and for the end connecting to the shackle I'm using a heim joint.

 

A big enough heim joint will do the job. You could use a Johnny joint, they’re basically a big, rebuildable heim joint.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx

Parts Mike sells a similar one called a Sami joint.

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=238

Anyway, I’ve been thinking of doing the exact same thing so I’ve been researching parts.