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Rebuild For "miles"

ITLKSEZ said:
The taper is in the lockout. The washers sit proud and hold the pressure when assembled.

The full float axle on my old ford dump body had the same setup.

105812d1471654713-front-hub-bolts-cone-washers-front-hub.jpg
Click to expand...

I was thinking of my rear axle on roy's thread but now my front axle wants some attention.
Most of the bolts are loose. Thing is that these are my "Nice" lockout hubs. I plan on using drive flanges for trail rides. I have d30 drive flanges and lockout hubs for the rear.

20260407_194612 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260407_194650 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
 
I don't know for sure if it helps with the bolt loosening or not, but I never use gaskets for the hubs. Just a very thin layer of silicon.

It's possible a compressible gasket helps the bolts loosen, so I don't use them. Never had seepage issues.
 
Had to pull the instructions to double check, The FSM says to remove by prying with a pair screwdrivers... read "Countergear"

SM465_1 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

So my thought is to get a slide hammer attachment with inward facing hooks.
I just need to measure the thread on my slide hammer then find an appropriate cheap puller to modify.
 
Torrington bearing is out. Countershaft dropped down in the case, input shaft slid out. Now to the removal of the main shaft.

To pull the Torrington bearing I ground the jaws to size. Tapped the bearing in ever so slightly to try and free it up. Then ideally i would have cut solid spreader bars and driled them but instead i bolted the links together and put a shim on the opposite side. I got the pry bar in place and hammered the pickle fork in. Then hammered outward on the side of the fork. Then used some creative positions when it ran out of travel.
I will want to replace all of the bearings simply due to age and hidden rust but the shafts look ok so far. I will need to call in a parts order in a day or two once I get some measurements.
The magnetic drain plug has quite a metal collection so everything will get scrubbed and looked over.

20260415_124941 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125235 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125603 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125730 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_130405 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr



20260415_130228 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
 
Spent some time with the sm465 today.

Tried pulling the bearing and all, thought about hacking the output shaft then decided to seperate the ball bearing.
20260426_184022
That didn't quite do it so i ground a relief in the races.
20260426_192447 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

That allowed me to line up the reliefs and pull the ball bearings out. Then 10 min wresting the gears out.
20260426_193007 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

And a nearly empty case.

20260426_192952 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
I need to make a decision about pulling reverse apart, getting the new style 3rd gear that doesn't pop like a t-90's 2nd gear, decide if I need new shift forks since my nylon fingers are worn off, and decide on the shift cane (mine is currently chrome so I want to bend it straight then wrap the bent area with tape leaving a mostly chrome cane. I don't feel like I will drive this hard enough to justify the new gear but it is good to hear other opinions.
 
Took the jeep to the scrap yard.
These videos should help me dial in some engine issues in the future.
 
Today's progress on the sm465.
I need to order countershaft and input shaft bearings. I'm thinking of getting the basic Novak rebuild kit to go along with my AA conversion kit. Bushings and thrust washers might get weird.

Since I don't need the output shaft and it isn't in great shape I ground the inner bearing race off:


That allowed the granny gear and slider to be removed. I really need to clean the workbench:
 
Jw60 said:
Spent some time with the sm465 today.

Tried pulling the bearing and all, thought about hacking the output shaft then decided to seperate the ball bearing.
20260426_184022
That didn't quite do it so i ground a relief in the races.
20260426_192447 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

That allowed me to line up the reliefs and pull the ball bearings out. Then 10 min wresting the gears out.
20260426_193007 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

And a nearly empty case.

20260426_192952 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
I need to make a decision about pulling reverse apart, getting the new style 3rd gear that doesn't pop like a t-90's 2nd gear, decide if I need new shift forks since my nylon fingers are worn off, and decide on the shift cane (mine is currently chrome so I want to bend it straight then wrap the bent area with tape leaving a mostly chrome cane. I don't feel like I will drive this hard enough to justify the new gear but it is good to hear other opinions.
Click to expand...
Was that a snap ring where the bearings were?
 
Renegade ll said:
Was that a snap ring where the bearings were?
Click to expand...

The output ball bearing had a conical lockwasher and nut. The front countershaft is free floating on a Torrington bearing, the rear countershaft has a ball bearing and snap ring. Input has ball bearing and snap ring. All the ball bearings have external snap rings that sandwich into the covers.

Most of the fight is due to the transmission being outside in a truck bed for 10 years then in my basement for another 10 years.
 
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