Rebuild For "miles"

[Jw60]

The taper is in the lockout. The washers sit proud and hold the pressure when assembled.

The full float axle on my old ford dump body had the same setup.

I was thinking of my rear axle on roy's thread but now my front axle wants some attention.
Most of the bolts are loose. Thing is that these are my "Nice" lockout hubs. I plan on using drive flanges for trail rides. I have d30 drive flanges and lockout hubs for the rear.

20260407_194612 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260407_194650 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

 

[Ol Fogie]

Yes I agree the flickr version is better quality, maybe it is a data transfer rate thing. Flickr has a sharper picture.

x2 here.

 

[Fireball]

I don't know for sure if it helps with the bolt loosening or not, but I never use gaskets for the hubs. Just a very thin layer of silicon.

It's possible a compressible gasket helps the bolts loosen, so I don't use them. Never had seepage issues.

 

[jeep peep69]

The cutlass hub has a thin bolt flange so you need a bolt with around 5/16” shoulder to seat correctly then they won’t loosen up. Very durable and simple hub.

 

[Jw60]

I hate these bearings.
20260412_191208 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260412_191326 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

This does have the solid countershaft spacer
Input cone is groovy but the synchroteeth are great.
20260412_193813 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

 

[Jw60]

I gave up with the front torrington bearing. I need to either make a puller or chisel out the bearing.

 

[Jw60]

Had to pull the instructions to double check, The FSM says to remove by prying with a pair screwdrivers... read "Countergear"

SM465_1 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

So my thought is to get a slide hammer attachment with inward facing hooks.
I just need to measure the thread on my slide hammer then find an appropriate cheap puller to modify.

 

[Jw60]

Torrington bearing is out. Countershaft dropped down in the case, input shaft slid out. Now to the removal of the main shaft.

To pull the Torrington bearing I ground the jaws to size. Tapped the bearing in ever so slightly to try and free it up. Then ideally i would have cut solid spreader bars and driled them but instead i bolted the links together and put a shim on the opposite side. I got the pry bar in place and hammered the pickle fork in. Then hammered outward on the side of the fork. Then used some creative positions when it ran out of travel.
I will want to replace all of the bearings simply due to age and hidden rust but the shafts look ok so far. I will need to call in a parts order in a day or two once I get some measurements.
The magnetic drain plug has quite a metal collection so everything will get scrubbed and looked over.

20260415_124941 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125235 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125603 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_125730 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

20260415_130405 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr



20260415_130228 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr