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Rebuild For "miles"

T. M. said:
I like how you have the winch line coming through the bumper. Makes the winch look a lot less "slapped on" than how Belleviews & 8274s usually look on ECJs.
Click to expand...
That is how the original Belleview/Warn winch mounting plates were configured. The early Belleview fairlead frames were aluminum and had a slight rearward curl on the bumper side that fit over the top contour of the bumper to position it. Still have one of those on "New Blue". IIRC, the 1/4" thick winch plate made it necessary to trim the clutch lever a bit to keep it off the grill if welded directly to the rear of the bumper.
 
A little paint and calling it good for now. It's heavy and looks good as it is.
The winch is off of the floor. Needs power cable, clutch cable, up idle switch to arm the push buttons etc.
I've moved onto the front pinion preload shims (or lack there of).
Then it needs some seat time.

 
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Checking In, the front axle pinion preload shims have been on my mind ever since the gear change. I'm not sure if I ever got the pinion preload set before racing to the get-together the next day.

Since I'm in there, current patterns:
I'm surprised to see wear but it may just be the old pattern (used gears)




Once this is wrapped up, I can put the snowplow on. That will surely make it a record low snowfall this year.
 
Pinion did have preload shims and when given a precise "three ugga dugga" it yielded a slight drag. I tossed it all back together with a new pinion seal. Bearing caps were torqued down, cover is on. I need to get a fresh pinion nut and posi oil, then I might sleep this year.
 
I've been noticing the alternator bearing has been whining more and more...

I got about halfway home today when All of a sudden ther was a release of electrical smoke. I promptly dived into the well lit back lot of the community center.
I quickly found the horn shorted but there was still sparking when I got behind the pedals and started moving. Not knowing what that was in the dark I decided it was best to disconnect the battery and tow it closer to home.

As it turns out... there are two wires that are always live on a jeep.
The horn and The stoplight switch.

Since I've been taking the fenders on and off I've had the horn zip tied to the grill support rod so I can take the fenders on and off.
Turns out I undid the power wire for some reason... eventually that loose wire touched something shiny and the wire go poof.

20250109_190902 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

The power wire for the horn just wrapped around up to the alternator... so it fried all the wire from the temp sensors to the turn signals and headlights.

20250109_192154 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

Also turns out the stoplight wires got caught in the setscrew on the steering shaft. So that is a 2nd unrelated issue that's easily addressed now.

20250109_191711 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
 
Jw60 said:
I've been noticing the alternator bearing has been whining more and more...

I got about halfway home today when All of a sudden ther was a release of electrical smoke. I promptly dived into the well lit back lot of the community center.
I quickly found the horn shorted but there was still sparking when I got behind the pedals and started moving. Not knowing what that was in the dark I decided it was best to disconnect the battery and tow it closer to home.

As it turns out... there are two wires that are always live on a jeep.
The horn and The stoplight switch.

Since I've been taking the fenders on and off I've had the horn zip tied to the grill support rod so I can take the fenders on and off.
Turns out I undid the power wire for some reason... eventually that loose wire touched something shiny and the wire go poof.

20250109_190902 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

The power wire for the horn just wrapped around up to the alternator... so it fried all the wire from the temp sensors to the turn signals and headlights.

20250109_192154 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr

Also turns out the stoplight wires got caught in the setscrew on the steering shaft. So that is a 2nd unrelated issue that's easily addressed now.

20250109_191711 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
Click to expand...
Oof, bad luck. Or, great excuse to refresh the wiring!
 
Lucky me, Monday and Tuesday night I have to drive the jeep an hour and a half on the interstate after work... in the dark.
 
Ok home from round 1 of "jeeps on ice"
Front electrical got pulled and ironically only the two black wires needed replaced in the main bundle.
The stoplight wires got fixed.
The horn is ignored.
Everything is re-wrapped in electrical tape and placed in corrugated tube.

But my rear running lights don't work. I traced it down to the rear harness but it's gonna require unpacking the entire rear harness and adding a rear junction block. I used tow lights today.


I need to point out the brake pedal arm and lack of any cross bolt... my brakes are soo much better with that fixed.

Jw60 said:
20250109_191711 by Joe the adapter guy, on Flickr
Click to expand...

I need to tighten up the steering set-screws and all then add cardboard to the grill for round 2 of interstate madness.

In other news it ran pretty good. No weird motor noises or backfires, it might have some timing available, when floored I mostly cruised in 3rd overdrive at 65mph.
I never thought I would use overdrive with the 4.27 gears but it is proving handy. (2200rpm @67mph) it doesn't have a lot to spare in 3rd overdrive but it will take the interstate grades with (a little) power to spare. Pretty happy overall!
 
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Round two was a little more eventful.
Started a lot earlier than I expected and a top speed of 85mph somewhere :shrug:.
Then about 20 miles from the destination / 30 miles in I was in the passing lane on I70 when all of a sudden it backfired out the intake or exhaust and struggled to run. I dived right across two lanes and coasted down the shoulder.
After climbing in the rear for 2 gal of gas and dumping it in the tank without getting out of the jeep for the traffic is ran good enough to get to the next gas station. I filled it with some 91 Octane and realized I lost my gas cap on the highway.

Soo...
Luckily I have my tank vented at the filler neck and I was able to drive with a plastic bag over the filler neck and tied off inside the tub through the filler grommet. Then I held my gloved hand out the window making sure the bag didn't fly away...

Then after getting the truck and towing to 3 parts stores I found a new gas cap. (y)
 
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It's been over a month since my last update. cold weather and overtime at work has taken time away from working on the jeep. I did order a pair of these:
https://affordableoffroad.com/shop/1-x-2-weld-in-clevis-mounts/
I couldn't make them for the price. I probably should have asked if they could make them 8" long but I didn't. :shrug:
At 5.5" They are long enough to go thru the bumper and weld to the winch plate with 1-1/4" to spare. Sort of an odd length but enough for one 3/8" bolt and I think a gusset with a 1/4" thick tab 2.5" long to capture another bolt would give four bolts and eight rivets holding the bumper to frame. It's amazingly slow working with 1/4" plate trying to match it up with a 65yr old bumper that it not true and square. I have fillers for the cable pass thru welded to the winch plate, I just need to add crush sleeves for the thru bolts and use my big rectangular drill bit on the bumper

I still need to fix the exhaust but I'm not looking forward to that...:cry:
It looks like I should y the passenger side to the driver side with a flex coupler somewhere in the mix.
 
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Looking at changing my exhaust a little. I currently have duals and the passenger muffler gets bumped a bit. That is the side with my O2 sensor so it causes issues.
I pulled the passenger exhaust and I'm looking at going under the bellhousing and above a normal skid plate... I'll extend the skid as needed. Then Y into the driver side as it turns in front of the clutch pivot bracket. (Clutch will also get a skid). Thoughts and opinions?


 
The crossover should go over the skid plate just below the bell housing. That is how the Dauntless jeeps come from the factory. The rest should be tucked as high and tight as possible.
 
This will have to work for a Y, hopefully I can finish the passenger crossover this week. It hangs down lower than the frame rails at the moment but I should be able to keep it above the transfercase skid plate. I need to get more flex between the muffler and the Y so i think flex pipe is in order.

 
Yesterday was pretty good for the old jeep. I got the exhaust together and drove to work. The new face (big thanks for the members here who sold me the weathered winch and fairlead)


After work It ran to the kids baseball practice, then a pizza run. After pizza was delivered to the bar it needed to ferry the Expedition home l (campfire story). Lastly it escorted the Flex to the tire shop to be ready in the morning. (Adjacent lot was better lit and more accessible)
I will emphasize that the flex is not an appropriate tow vehicle. It will do the job but the jeep can easily pit it. A dolly would help but the weight would be too much IMHO.


Some notes on the day with the exhaust re-work and new O2 sensor: the single 2" muffler sounds like pure and utter crap. Like a ricer Honda Odyssey.
It feels down on power but it may also be that I'm still used to 5.38 axles. smells like burnt clutch, parking brake isn't holding.
But it doesn't backfire like before and it is revving up pretty high without issue. (Tachometer needs reconnected)

The next tasks are to adjust the TPS sensor then get a little drive in up a long hill. I'll run the inferred thermometer on the clutch, parking brake and each wheel.

Then next week I need to get the draw bar bolted up and re-wire the m416.
 
Tps sensor was an easy adjustment. Same hex key as an ikea chair. (I've got about a dozen of em from all the chairs, table, bed frames, etc)
Drove to get the flex from it's oil change on friday
Flat towed home, Sunday i flat towed out with the ExPed and drove home, then today I drove out and picked up the Expedition.

My running lights aren't working but the turns and the tow lights are working.
The exhaust sounds more like I would expect from a chevy.
Parking brake needs adjusted.
Draw bar needs attached.
M416 needs wired.
Fuel tank vent line needs extended up higher.
Jerry can and Spare tire need a mount.
Tow bar needs something to hold it up or stow it.
Rear body mounts seem loose.
Rear spring bushings don't exist.
That new fuel cap from the January episode already warped it's gasket.

Overall I'm feeling good. It's weird not hearing a howl when flat towing or cruising anymore. Now I hear the brakes squeak and the body chirp.
 
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Video from back in may, haven't driven the pig since. You'll probably understand with the transmission and ignition/fuel delivery issue i'm having, and I don't have time for it.
I'm thinking vacuum leak, timing is off, coil might be weak, fuel filter might need changed.


The first 55sec is just waiting at a stoplight.
 
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The Fall willys reunion marks the end of my "wheeling season"
I have one more plaque for the collection


The fuel issue seems better with the precision application of one zip tie so I believe I have a theory of what was happening.

The damage report for this trip is a self-removed rear shock, another torn seam on the top, and exhaust crossover.

So this "maintenance season" begins:

1. Find top dead center and call him mark.
2. Re-attach shock to spring plate, pull all off check welds and paint.
3. Adjust and finish weld exhaust
4. Build braces for draw bar and incorporate rear recovery points.
5. Finish winch install and incorporate front recovery points.
6. Address worn out T-90 synchros
7. Re-install snow plow
8. Build a large 1- 2gal reserve fuel tank.
9. Cage
10. Tires
11. Corner guards, fender guards, and rocker guards
12. Rear fuel tank
13. Rear spring bushings and box spring hangers
14. Body mounts
15. Spare tire carrier


Misc, 3pt seat belts, glove box support, reflectors, remote vents, raised intake, sew top
 
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