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Where To Find Parts

There is no factory gauge, so you'll have to take whatever sender the gauge maker provides. 1/8" NPT is pretty standard ... the block tap should be a NPT thread. https://www.amazon.com/KOOTANS-Redu...=1+4+to+1+8+npt+adapter&qid=1620572133&sr=8-3

If you buy the Stewart-Warner electric gauge that's closest to what came in the Renegades and such, they require this sender:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-279a

You notice that it comes with a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter. They don't tell you what the sender specs are, because they want you to buy their product.
 
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Anyone have a line on a good source for phenolic or billet carb spacer for a 2GC to a Dauntless? Just got home and the one I bought two weeks ago showed up while I was gone. The seller on EBay said it fit but it’s too big.
 
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Ignition parts - Not Imported from China

I have bought several hard to find items from "Classic Military Vehicles" over the years and have been pleased with the quality of everything I have gotten from there.

The tune up "kit" I installed only a couple of months ago in my 67 CJ5 suddenly lost spark today. I determined the condenser had failed by replacing it with the one from my other running Jeep. This kit was from a reputable supplier, but I suspect it is a Far East import.

I looked at several suppliers sites, all have condensers, but since they do not specify the origin I suspect they are Asian imports.

Not wanting to buy another POS I did some more searching and found that "Classic Militrary Vehicles" lists "Blue Streak" brand components, which should be good quality. I ordered a couple of condensers and contact points from there.
 
Quality brake line kit for early CJ5.

I recently finished replacing all components of the brake system on my 67 CJ5, with an upgrade to 11" drum brakes all around.

Many suppliers offer brake line kits, but most I could find were for the brake system with the front lines on the axle going into short flex lines at the knuckles, such as was used on some CJs and on M38A1 Jeeps.

Problem is my Jeep has the system with the front line routed under the radiator going to longer flex lines on the frame which connect directly to the wheel cylinders. I had to do a lot of searching to find a kit for that.

I finally found the appropriate kit at Walcks and want to mention how pleased I am with the kit. It fit perfectly and having 11" brakes instead of the stock 9" posed no problem at the rear either.

It was a feat of some magnitude routing the frame line going to the rear, but once I managed to snake it through all the obstacles it too fit perfectly at both ends.

It is a very good quality kit, and I think it well worth the price considering the trouble, and time it saved me had I fabricated my own lines.
 
I have a cluster removed from a junk CJ5 which still has most of those sockets, other than a couple I used to fix mine. If you want, I can box them up and send them to you for the cost of postage.
 
Oldpappy said:
I have a cluster removed from a junk CJ5 which still has most of those sockets, other than a couple I used to fix mine. If you want, I can box them up and send them to you for the cost of postage.
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Thank you very much for the offer. I need to dig my original wiring harness out of storage and assess whether or not I can salvage the sockets, if not I will send you a private message.
 
Does anyone know what the technical term is for these "mushroom" or "T-top" posts atop these low-pressure hydraulic brake pressure switches are?
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The pigtail that came with it (like the one pictured above) is loosey-goosey and I want to wire it with a better connector.

I've tried searching Waytek/Amazon/Google but I don't think I am using the right terminology for the posts.

So far I found these JEGS connectors, which I ordered and returned as they are too small: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJFGCB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I see these options at Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5656pt?rrec=true

But I'd like to know what the name of the type of terminal is.
 
You could de-pin your existing flat connector housing and replace the terminal ends. They should be a standard female 56 series connector like these
https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/terminals
I did that on one of mine. There are lots of places to get the terminal ends, I just used American Autowire for an example. If you need the housing also, I didn’t see it on their site but wouldn’t be surprised that if you called them, they could supply it. Here’s another source, they may be able to sell you just the connector parts
https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/709
good luck,

Tim
 
What are the correct length wheel studs for a 1966 CJ five Dana 44? The ones I have pressed into the hub I bent and am replacing (from Kaiser Willys) have three-quarter inch of threads, these that I ordered from Summit have 1 inch:

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-33187

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Also – follow up question. I have Herms 11 inch disc brake conversion. I want to go to O’Reilly and try ordering a different set of drums to see if by chance they might be a bit less deep. Does anybody know what jeep 11 inch drum brakes I should be looking up? Would it be in 1970s CJ seven?

Edit - 1 1970 CJ5 with 11" brakes - would this be worth a try:
More Information for RAYBESTOS 2307R (rockauto.com)
 
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truckee4x4 said:
What are the correct length wheel studs for a 1966 CJ five Dana 44? The ones I have pressed into the hub I bent and am replacing (from Kaiser Willys) have three-quarter inch of threads, these that I ordered from Summit have 1 inch:
Don't know the exact answer you are looking for but if you go to the Dorman website and search wheel lugs/studs, you can see a long list of studs. Look through the list and find what you need. Note part number and order on line or at your local supplier. Your cost should be considerably less than the summit price.
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