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Saginaw Power Steering (pics) Please Add Yours!

Does anyone have a link to where they purchased the base of stock column u-joint and bushing. It looks like it needs to be .875 ID.
Mucho gracious.
 
I'll add mine as well.
I converted my bell cranks steering to power using the following.
Advanced Adapters conversion kit to allow use of the stock steering column and wheel.
Jeep ZJ(Grand Cherokee) steering box. The ZJ boxes are a fast ratio (12.7:1) box and readily available either at a junkyard or remanufactured.
Double u-joint to clear the headers and the LS motor mounts. The steering shaft routing required two carrier bearings with a total of four u-joints (2-single and 1-double).
I was working in the Caribbean at the time and couldn't find anyone to make me custom hoses, so I converted all the house ends to an-6 and made my own.
The return hose is a standard -6 braided line rated for hydraulic fluid. The pressure line is a DIY kit from PSC steering.

Between the steering conversion and the shackle reversal, the Jeep steers very well at both low and high speeds. Low speed is effortless, high speed 70-80 mph tracks smooth and easy. I do have a little extra play due to the double u-joint, but it doesn't bother the wife.

ZJ steering box with an-6 line adapters.
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View of the steering shaft from the box to the first carrier bearing (heim joint)
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Closeup of the heim mount.
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View of the double u-joint
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View of the second heim joint/carrier bearing after the steering shaft comes through the firewall. And yes it is very close to the exhaust header, but it does clear.
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Mike
 
Mike[/QUOTE] The ZJ boxes are a fast ratio (12.7:1) box and readily available either at a junkyard or remanufactured.

Mike,I have question for you on the steering box and have not researched why they call 12.7:1 a fast ratio. My Saginaw is 4.1:1
and takes 2 turns from bump-stop to bump-stop installed. It is 4.1:1 turns to where the box alone stops. It doesn't take much
input to make a steering change. I believe I have a shorter pitman arm to try. Or I am thinking about this wrong.
That said, it would appear that you would have close to 6 turns and less twitchy on the input and not even need power.
Do you happen to know what your stop to stop is?

Edit: Looked it up...12.7=3-1/2 turns...16.0=about 4 turns. So, maybe mine is not so twitchy.
They went as high as 24:1 but I am not sure what models these were in. It does not
appear that Saginaw ever made one. Only in manual steering. Answered my own questions.
Funnily, I researched this before but was confused on the fast part. Mine is fast enough...lol!

Thanks, John
 
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vtxtasy said:
I believe I have a shorter pitman arm to try. Or I am thinking about this wrong.
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The length of the pitman arm should be approximately equal to the distance from the center of the ball joint/kingpin to the center of the drag link (or tie rod for y-link steering setups) connection to the knuckle. A shorter pitman arm will decrease the swing arc length and reduce the amount of steering angle available at the wheels. It should also slightly reduce the steering effort required and the speed of the steering. A longer pitman arm will increase the swing arc length of the pitman arm and increase the amount of steering angle available at the wheels, up to the limits of the steering stops on the axle. It should also slightly increase the steering effort required and the speed of the steering.

Another point to consider with pitman arms and steering box placement is the geometry of the drag link and the tie rod at both full suspension compression and full droop. If you retained the original front spring configuration, the axle will move forward at full compression, and you don't want the pitman arm and drag link interfering with the tie rod. I'm running a shackle reversal, so while my axle is moved forward an inch or two from stock, it moves rearwards under compression. Even so, with my steering box placement, a set of 1 1/2" diameter tie rod and drag link would not work for me. It would bind at the point where they approach parallel. I had to switch to a 1 1/4" diameter set from Parts Mike.

Mike
 
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Does anyone have pictures of the stock column getting cut down?
From what I've gathered you cut the shaft and outer tube is cut an inch shorter then the shaft. bushing is installed and the u-joint yoke is against the bushing tight due to the spring so it's a two person operation one holding the spring down and one drilling thru for the first set screw.
 
I did mine by myself, so you don't need two people to do it. The u-joint does not hold the bushing in place and the shaft can be cut more than 1 inch from the outer tube end. The bushing is driven on with a mallet and is a pretty tight fit. Here are some pictures.

The shaft cut and prepped for the bushing.
OldGoat2019-800x600-10

OldGoat2019-800x600-10

  • Media owner BadGoat
  • Date added

The end of the shaft with the bushing installed, the U-joint mounted, and the whole column installed in the Jeep as a test fit.
OldGoat2019-800x600-14

OldGoat2019-800x600-14

  • Media owner BadGoat
  • Date added

Mike
 
colojeepguy said:
I've never understood this...what compresses the spring under the steering wheel? What holds the shaft in place?
Click to expand...

The AA instructions have the lower yoke tight to the bushing compressing the bearing.
There should be shims, spacers, or an additional collar if the bearing is not compressed a little.
 
This might not be relevant to the most recent posts but thought I'd post up pics of my steering setup with saginaw power steering. I also have a '98 4.3 Vortec (Chevy Blazer), narrowed Dana 44 front with spring over, and some custom machining that I did on an exhaust manifold from a mid 90's-ish Astro Van. I've also added a PS cooler under the which mount as well but I forgot to snap a photo.

Pre-4.3 Install:
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Post 4.3 Install:
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Is there a “best” Saginaw power gear? Year make model? I have a core and want a new or rebuilt box.
 
KarlWithaK said:
This might not be relevant to the most recent posts but thought I'd post up pics of my steering setup with saginaw power steering. I also have a '98 4.3 Vortec (Chevy Blazer), narrowed Dana 44 front with spring over, and some custom machining that I did on an exhaust manifold from a mid 90's-ish Astro Van. I've also added a PS cooler under the which mount as well but I forgot to snap a photo.

Pre-4.3 Install:
View media item 10757View media item 10758View media item 10759
Post 4.3 Install:
View media item 10760View media item 10761View media item 10762View media item 10763View media item 10764View media item 10765View media item 10766View media item 10767View media item 10768View media item 10769
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I have to be honest, from a point of safety. The spacer block on the drag link at the knuckle doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. There's potential for a lot of stress and premature wear. The heim discussion has been had multiple times. My state wouldn't pass them on inspection for a tagged vehicle. Ymmv
Not trying to bag, otherwise your fab work looks great.
 
Rich M. said:
I have to be honest, from a point of safety. The spacer block on the drag link at the knuckle doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. There's potential for a lot of stress and premature wear. The heim discussion has been had multiple times. My state wouldn't pass them on inspection for a tagged vehicle. Ymmv
Not trying to bag, otherwise your fab work looks great.
Click to expand...

Fair point and I’ve never though much of it in the 25 years it’s been set up like that. That’s a lot of height for a single shear joint. Probably worth me taking a few minutes to take it apart and having a closer look.
 
KarlWithaK said:
Fair point and I’ve never though much of it in the 25 years it’s been set up like that. That’s a lot of height for a single shear joint. Probably worth me taking a few minutes to take it apart and having a closer look.
Click to expand...

Not only is it a lot of height for single shear, it doesn't have any real misalignment clearance when the axle flexes. It seems like you should be using a high misalignment heim joint like this: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2112.html or some cone spacers on both sides of the existing joint so it can flex more without bottoming out like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325721300877
 
Was looking at my power steering gear, appears to be a about a 1/8 hole in the casting. No fluid leaking from it. Is this normal? A vent of some sort? IMG_4823.JPG
 
I always assumed it was a hole to fit a punch through to get the snap ring started for removal. I’ve never checked which way the hole goes.

The box on my 3b has it.
 
Sorry I am so late, but yes, a hole to get a drift in to get the snap ring out.
IMG_5497.jpeg
 
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