F134 Engine Revival Plan

[mikvar]

Hey all,

Getting myself back in the garage! Next step in my education is Engine 101, another thing I’ve never done. Finally time to dig under the hood and prepare to bring the F134 engine in my 64 CJ5 back to life. I figure it was last run about 17 years ago. It’s been stored inside since. Things done back then were a carb rebuild (me and my nephew mechanic), new fuel pump, plug wires, distributor (local dealer). Never got to a full tune up once it was running, life got back in the way.

From reading and some UTubes, this is my plan, and at this point not including any major disassembly.

Old battery out and replace.

Check all wiring connections in engine bay. Disassemble one at a time, clean and reconnect. Replace any bad wires.

Check ground strap. It likely needs replacement.

Take out each spark plug and check gap. Check distributor and clean points, check gap.

Maybe try to turn engine a few times by hand just to be sure it is free.

Shot of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder when plugs are out.
Checked oil level and it is full, dark black and no leaks seen on floor. It is the old oil, I don’t know how old. I’m thinking startup with old, then change after first running, or do I change oil first?

Check coolant level. Visual check of fan belt to see it is reasonable.

Fuel - Set up a temp fuel source to fuel pump with fuel filter inline. Disconnect somewhere along line to not get any old gas or stuff from tank.

Remove air cleaner horn from carb to be able to shoot any super starter fluid stuff in it.

Any essential engine related equipment/tools or things I need to have available? I don’t have any currently.

Appreciate any and all comments on this, insights you’d be willing to share, tips, other things to look for or do, or not do.

Thank you as always for the expertise!

 

[Ol Fogie]

I think I would go ahead and change the oil if it will turn over ok. Also I would check the compression on all cylinders, In order to check see if it has any valves stuck open. If it should have a stuck open intake valve it might fire on that cylinder with the open valve and catch fire back into the intake and carb.

 

[Howard Eisenhauer]

Yes oil change first. Then turn over with the plugs out using the starter for a few minutes to get he fresh oil everywhere; this will also test the fuel pump. I'd pull he valve covers to watch valve action. Figure on a carb kit as the accelerator pump is going to be rock hard.

 

[Keys5a]

I’d pull the top off the carb to check the fuel bowl. I wouldn’t be surprised if it all gummy from old dried up gas. If is is less than clean, soak some lacquer thinner in there to soften up the gunk. There’s a good chance the main jet (brass screw thing) is gummed up. I use number-sized drill bits in my fingers to clear out the orifice, after I’ve removed it to clean. The engine won’t run well, if at all, with a gummed up carb.

 

[53A1]

Old engine revival is tricky. Hydraulic lifters are the worst for getting stuck but you don't have to worry about that. Always start by hand turning the engine. You can't drive the oil pump with a drill so make sure oil pressure rises quickly. Like others said, carb is history and needs a rebuild. Vacuum advances are probably stuck but I doubt your distributor has that. Fresh oil. Might have to pack oil pump. Just don't be in a rush. Pull the plugs.

 

[Oldpappy]

Every Jeep that has came into my hands in the last 30 years has not been started in years, and in most cases I have been able to get them running soon after bringing it home. Last one was a 67 CJ5 I bought about five years ago that had sat in a barn since 1979.

An engine needs only three things to run. Fuel, compression, and spark at the proper time.

I doubt you will need to pack the oil pump as it has remained submerged in oil. Putting some Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder is a good idea, but if you just squirt it into the spark plug holes it won't get into the cylinders, it will be poured in on top of the valves which isn't a bad idea either. Just put about four inches of 1/4" tubing onto a big syringe, push that into the hole and you can get some oil into the cylinder. I agree you should change the oil, and I always substitute a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the first oil change. You also need to inspect and clean the carburetor as suggested. Clean the points and set the gap.

Let the Marvel Oil soak into the cylinders for a week so it can lubricate and free up the rings. During that week, with the spark plugs removed, turn the engine over with a wrench every day, until it turns freely. Then before attempting to start it, disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine with the starter until it builds oil pressure. If it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, it probably has an idiot light. You can install an oil pressure gauge directly in the rear port of on the driver side of the engine where the idiot light sensor may be installed.

After you have oil pressure, install the plugs, connect the coil wire, prime it by pouring a little gasoline into the carburetor, and see if it will try to start.

 

[PeteL]

All of the above.

I'd strongly suggest do the bare minimum that will get it to fire up and run. Then continue by tuning/fixing one thing at a time. It is far more difficult to trace or or diagnosis issues when there are multiple variables. Especially when an engine is not able to run.

It seems to be lost knowledge - but any renovation must start with establishing the fundamental tune-up settings as per your Factory Service Manual, and in the proper sequence. (Points, timing, plugs, etc.) Otherwise you will be chasing your tail. Please forget yootoob" as a source for anything ever. Use your FSM, that's what they are for.

Fresh points, distributor, cap, rotor, always help.

 

[mikvar]

All of the above.

I'd strongly suggest do the bare minimum that will get it to fire up and run. Then continue by tuning/fixing one thing at a time. It is far more difficult to trace or or diagnosis issues when there are multiple variables. Especially when an engine is not able to run.

It seems to be lost knowledge - but any renovation must start with establishing the fundamental tune-up settings as per your Factory Service Manual, and in the proper sequence. (Points, timing, plugs, etc.) Otherwise you will be chasing your tail. Please forget yootoob" as a source for anything ever. Use your FSM, that's what they are for.

Fresh points, distributor, cap, rotor, always help.

Just read thru the service manual tune up section. Good call! Agree on the one thing at a time. Used that all the time in working on computer issues for years - is it plugged in?

Thanks

 

[mikvar]

Just put about four inches of 1/4" tubing onto a big syringe, push that into the hole and you can get some oil into the cylinder. I agree you should change the oil, and I always substitute a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the first oil change. You also need to inspect and clean the carburetor as suggested. Clean the points and set the gap.

Let the Marvel Oil soak into the cylinders for a week so it can lubricate and free up the rings. During that week, with the spark plugs removed, turn the engine over with a wrench every day, until it turns freely. Then before attempting to start it, disconnect the coil wire and turn the engine with the starter until it builds oil pressure. If it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, it probably has an idiot light. You can install an oil pressure gauge directly in the rear port of on the driver side of the engine where the idiot light sensor may be installed.

After you have oil pressure, install the plugs, connect the coil wire, prime it by pouring a little gasoline into the carburetor, and see if it will try to start.

I was thinking about the syringe for the oil in initially.

Yes, mine is the idiot light in the speedo for oil. Spotted the sensor location. Guess I’d have to remove that and screw in an oil pressure gauge

Thanks!

 

[Oldpappy]

If the "idiot light works" you could spin it until the light goes out, but I would feel better knowing for sure that it has oil pressure.

Your comment below brought back a memory.

"Used that all the time in working on computer issues for years - is it plugged in?"

I spent more than 45 years working in IT for a big company. The first half of my career was managing a mainframe data center, and in those days the console operator also had the role of "help desk".

In the early days of desk top computers, long before "Laptops" came about, the programmers who were "on call" took home a desk top PC which they could login with through a dial up modem, and fix a problem if one of their batch jobs fail ("abend").

One night my console operator spent over an hour on the phone with one of these programmers who could not get his computer to boot up. My operator had asked him to try turning it off, and then back on, to reboot the system. The guy tried several times with no luck, got frustrated and demanded to speak to me.

I got on the phone and said "Turn it off, and back on to reboot it", the guy got real angry and shouted "I have done that so many times already, and it won't work". I said "Well, humor me and try one more time, but first tell me what button you are pushing".

He had been turning the monitor on and off, but had never turned on the CPU. When I told him to flip the big switch on the back of the big box, and it started making some noise he seemed startled, but was happy when it actually came on up.

 

[mikvar]

If the "idiot light works" you could spin it until the light goes out, but I would feel better knowing for sure that it has oil pressure.

Your comment below brought back a memory.

"Used that all the time in working on computer issues for years - is it plugged in?"

I spent more than 45 years working in IT for a big company. The first half of my career was managing a mainframe data center, and in those days the console operator also had the role of "help desk".

In the early days of desk top computers, long before "Laptops" came about, the programmers who were "on call" took home a desk top PC which they could login with through a dial up modem, and fix a problem if one of their batch jobs fail ("abend").

One night my console operator spent over an hour on the phone with one of these programmers who could not get his computer to boot up. My operator had asked him to try turning it off, and then back on, to reboot the system. The guy tried several times with no luck, got frustrated and demanded to speak to me.

I got on the phone and said "Turn it off, and back on to reboot it", the guy got real angry and shouted "I have done that so many times already, and it won't work". I said "Well, humor me and try one more time, but first tell me what button you are pushing".

He had been turning the monitor on and off, but had never turned on the CPU. When I told him to flip the big switch on the back of the big box, and it started making some noise he seemed startled, but was happy when it actually came on up.

I’m considering a temp gauge setup for oil pressure for some assurance we have lube, and educational accomplishment.

We could probably swap stories on IT stuff for days. If they were lugging home an IBM Xt that would be a pain.

 

[Oldpappy]

A woman once called to say the "cup holder" on her computer had broken.